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  1. #41
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    What were the stock ones?

  2. #42
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    Quote Originally Posted by Akamm47 View Post
    Not trying to hijack here, somewhat similar question related, I have oring intake and heads but the previous owner had the two part style clamps, are these ok to run or should I switch to the stock aircraft type.
    Attachment 101886
    Note: The original version of this style clamp was a brass casting, no welded tabs, and were of very high quality and good fit. My sorely taxed gray matter seems to recall that they were an Arlen Ness product. I would not hesitate to use those original clamps, they are very good.

    Jim

  3. #43
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    I had a set of Arlen's on the 52, didn't like em cause at the joint they would bunch up the o-ring ...
    Took them off and installed the 360* SS clamps ...



    Anyone wants em $50 and their yours ....
    Last edited by Dragstews; 04-09-2020 at 12:10 PM.

  4. #44
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    Quote Originally Posted by Akamm47 View Post
    What were the stock ones?
    Aircraft Type

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Stock Type

    Click image for larger version. 

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    ...

  5. #45
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    Without a doubt acquiring the correct manifold for the build is the way to go ...

    I tried to do that with this 96" build, but finding a stroker S&S Two Throat manifold was not to be ..
    That's why the plastic rings was used ...



    This image show the right side of the manifold using only the conversion ring to fill the gap of where the o-ring would be ..




    Left side a stroker ring was used (filled the gap of the shorter std man.) manifold is sitting really well up on the head ports, ...



    When I ordered the clamps from FnA Cutoms, I requested one to be longer for using the stroker ring on one side, they said NP ..

    Last edited by Dragstews; 04-09-2020 at 4:30 PM.

  6. #46
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    You can order some constant tension type clamps from McMaster Carr. They're about $15 a piece for a good stainless clamp, you just need to measure and see what size you need.

    https://www.mcmaster.com/hose-clamps...hose-and-tube/

    Jake

  7. #47
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dragstews View Post
    I'm not a fan of those ....

    Aircraft Stainless Steel would be a better choise .. IMO
    Yep I agree they suck.......

  8. #48
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    Once you get the intake set up, it would also behoove you to make/buy a carb support if you don’t have one already

  9. #49
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    One of these is super trick ... or

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    Not as trick ...^^

  10. #50

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    Thank you all for the replies. I ended up taking the intake all back down. Stopped by the local indie, they had the oring stroker intake used, purchased it on the spot. Had to ride to another indie for the orings, and reassembled the intake. Tore the carb back apart and got in every passage with carb cleaner followed by a good rubber air nozzle and blew all the passages out with air. I did end up getting more crap out of the idle circuit. I got the bike reassembled today and fired up and idling.

    This is the first time in I dont know how many years this bike has ran. I got all the fluids topped off, did the clutch adjustments and took it for a ride up and down the road.
    The first bike I ever rode on as a kid.Click image for larger version. 

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    Last edited by Thatguyshawn; 04-15-2020 at 7:27 PM.

  11. #51
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    Nice bike nice 68 conv.......

  12. #52
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    That's great news man. Cool bike.

  13. #53

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    Quote Originally Posted by Tattooo View Post
    Nice bike nice 68 conv.......
    I can't take credit for the car. That's my moms, working out of their garage for the time. It's pretty sweet, was a driver restoration not show. It's not perfect but runs great and drives great.

    Rolled the bike out and washed her today and got years of dust and grime off of her. Lots of aged chrome needing replaced.

    Click image for larger version. 

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  14. #54
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    Quote Originally Posted by Thatguyshawn View Post
    Rolled the bike out and washed her today and got years of dust and grime off of her. Lots of aged chrome needing replaced.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Man it looks like someone put alum on the motor and rear wheel.....

    You have got to fix that rear fender..........

  15. #55
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    Sure is a lot of daylight between the frame and rocker box ..
    That frame was made for a tall motor ...

  16. #56

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    Quote Originally Posted by Dragstews View Post
    Sure is a lot of daylight between the frame and rocker box ..
    That frame was made for a tall motor ...
    One of the last times I talked to my uncle about this bike he had said something about the frame being done for the taller cylinders.

    It's a fresh build 98" motor. Unsure on the crank, the timing marks dont match any of the aftermarket cranks I've looked up. One giant centered drill mark, and a short distance later a small off center bore.

  17. #57

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    Quote Originally Posted by Tattooo View Post
    Man it looks like someone put alum on the motor and rear wheel.....

    You have got to fix that rear fender..........
    Both wheels need replaced. The primary cover, fork tubes, oil tank, all the other chrome all has slight issues.

    Definitely gonna do something with the fenders. I want to slim the bike up all around. Going to work on just getting it rideable this spring/summer and tear into it next winter and start having some fun with it.

  18. #58
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    Quote Originally Posted by Thatguyshawn View Post
    Definitely gonna do something with the fenders. I want to slim the bike up all around.

    Slim the bike?? That rear fender looks like it should be on a dirt bike with all of that room between the fender and tire.....

  19. #59
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    The seat is the real crime. LOL

  20. #60

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    Quote Originally Posted by Tattooo View Post
    Slim the bike?? That rear fender looks like it should be on a dirt bike with all of that room between the fender and tire.....
    Just get rid of unnecessary stuff, clean it up. Narrower tanks, different fenders. Going to start stock piling parts for next winter.

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