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  1. #21

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    Quote Originally Posted by Tattooo View Post
    EVEN new bikes have an intake seal......... Of some kind............

    So you say you have a manual?????? Did you not see the Orings in the manual?????
    Get the fuck out of my thread if you can't read what I've written and just want to be an ass.

    Like I said, I'm going between the manual and how this shit was put together. A rubber boot with an aircraft clamp is a pretty effective seal in most other situations.

    To everyone else, thank you, next step is drain the tanks, tear the carb/manifold off and get some pictures to at least get into my local shop so I can get some proper shit sorted.
    Last edited by Thatguyshawn; 04-09-2020 at 8:43 AM.

  2. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by Thatguyshawn View Post
    Get the fuck out of my thread if you can't read what I've written and just want to be an ass.

    Like I said, I'm going between the manual and how this shit was put together. A rubber boot with an aircraft clamp is a pretty effective seal in most other situations.

    To everyone else, thank you, next step is drain the tanks, tear the carb/manifold off and get some pictures to at least get into my local shop so I can get some proper shit sorted.
    I did read what you wrote......... What I read was it didn't have seals and you thought that was odd but you put it back together without them anyways...... That's why I asked what the manual said to do.....

    And yes a rubber boot does work.........
    Last edited by Tattooo; 04-09-2020 at 8:50 AM.

  3. #23

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    Tanks/carb/manifold are off.

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  4. #24
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    I think that you need to verify that you have the correct length intake manifold for the cylinder length. Since this is a 98" stroker motor it probably has taller cylinders - if it was an S&S kit it would come with the correct manifold. There are other ways to build a 98" motor as well - so it is vital for you to verify the correct intake manifold. Once you get it apart some pics of the heads, manifold including the number cast in the manifold, and the cylinder bases may help identify what you need. It's always an adventure working on these old motors - you never know what he previous owners did until you eyeball it.

    This is still assuming that you have a leaking manifold - you may have other problems as well but the manifold must be unfucked before you can proceed or you will be chasing your tail.

    Good luck with it.


    Edit - just missed you pics, let me do some checking on correct manifold length. You do have a band type manifold and O-ring heads. Some folks run that combination and do OK - I don't set motors up like that myself. I've had excellent results with correct manifold matched to the heads, correct seal set up (bands with correct clamps or O-Rings with aircraft clamps), and a carb support. They don't leak if set up correctly.
    Last edited by 69Glide; 04-09-2020 at 9:41 AM.

  5. #25
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    This motor should have 5.530" (0.200" taller than stock) length cylinders and should use a size 235 O-ring intake manifold. You may want to verify this with S&S but this is the info I have.

    Good luck with it.

  6. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by Thatguyshawn View Post
    Tanks/carb/manifold are off.

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    You have to run that type boot.... That intake isn't made for Orings....

    Pics sure are nice.....

    Like 69 said see how much of a gap you have between the intake and head without the boots...........

    But for sure you need new ones,,,,

  7. #27

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    Quote Originally Posted by 69Glide View Post
    I think that you need to verify that you have the correct length intake manifold for the cylinder length. Since this is a 98" stroker motor it probably has taller cylinders - if it was an S&S kit it would come with the correct manifold. There are other ways to build a 98" motor as well - so it is vital for you to verify the correct intake manifold. Once you get it apart some pics of the heads, manifold including the number cast in the manifold, and the cylinder bases may help identify what you need. It's always an adventure working on these old motors - you never know what he previous owners did until you eyeball it.

    This is still assuming that you have a leaking manifold - you may have other problems as well but the manifold must be unfucked before you can proceed or you will be chasing your tail.

    Good luck with it.


    Edit - just missed you pics, let me do some checking on correct manifold length. You do have a band type manifold and O-ring heads. Some folks run that combination and do OK - I don't set motors up like that myself. I've had excellent results with correct manifold matched to the heads, correct seal set up (bands with correct clamps or O-Rings with aircraft clamps), and a carb support. They don't leak if set up correctly.
    I cant find any casting numbers on the jugs, but they are taller jugs, not spacers.

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  8. #28
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    I may have given you bad info - I realize now that you said Super G, the manifold size # (length) is likely the same but the part # may be different. Please verify with S&S tech before spending any money.

    Sorry for any confusion.

  9. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by Thatguyshawn View Post
    I cant find any casting numbers on the jugs, but they are taller jugs, not spacers.

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    Mostly trying to determine if they are S&S cylinders - from what I can see they likely are but verify. If they are S&S they will have "S&S 80R" and "S&S 80F" cast into the cylinder base at the center of the "V".

  10. #30

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    Quote Originally Posted by 69Glide View Post
    Mostly trying to determine if they are S&S cylinders - from what I can see they likely are but verify. If they are S&S they will have "S&S 80R" and "S&S 80F" cast into the cylinder base at the center of the "V".
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    I couldn't find any S&S80 cast into the cylinders. Just the F and R. I dont know how precisely the manifold is supposed to fit, but it does fit with very little gap all around the runners.

  11. #31
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    Press the manifold tightly against the heads and feel inside with a fingertip. There should be no (or almost none) ridge where the manifold and the port meet. If they do not line up very closely then the manifold is likely the wrong size. Its hard to tell from the pic but it looks a little short to me.

    If I were building this motor and I didn't want to see it come back with a holed piston I'd install the correct size o-ring style manifold with o-rings and aircraft style clamps and press on.

    I understand that the technical discussion and the budget discussion must come together at some point. But, shovelhead intake manifolds do not leak if they are set up correctly. Do a search on this forum and you will see that intake manifold leaks are a common problem - almost always caused by mismatched parts and someone trying to save a few bucks. Cheap case is engine won't idle or tune and you don't ride the bike, expensive case is you get it running and melt a piston down the road.

    Something to think about.

    Good luck with it.

  12. #32
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    You can fill the gaps on the heads with converting rings and run the band type clamps ....



    Had to use them on this build ... The one you see on the left fills the gap of the O-Ring heads, on the right does the same job and adds some length in order to use a manifold that has more of a gap than needed (As in using a stock man. on a stroker motor) ... They are called stroker rings ...
    Last edited by Dragstews; 04-10-2020 at 12:52 PM.

  13. #33

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    Quote Originally Posted by Dragstews View Post
    You can fill the gaps on the heads with converting rings and run the band type clamps ....



    Had to use them on this build ... The one you see on the left fills the gap of the O-Ring heads, on the right does the same job and adds some leight in order to use a manifold that has more of a gap than needed ... They are called stroker rings ...
    I'm looking at some older discussions on this topic currently here on chopcult, similar fixes have been brought up. I think I'm just going to order a 98" oring manifold and be done with it, one less unknown to worry about.

  14. #34

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    Quote Originally Posted by Thatguyshawn View Post
    I'm looking at some older discussions on this topic currently here on chopcult, similar fixes have been brought up. I think I'm just going to order a 98" oring manifold and be done with it, one less unknown to worry about.
    Good choice. You will need new clamps as well, the oring clamps are smaller than the band clamps.

    Jim

  15. #35
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    Not trying to hijack here, somewhat similar question related, I have oring intake and heads but the previous owner had the two part style clamps, are these ok to run or should I switch to the stock aircraft type.
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  16. #36
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    I'm not a fan of those ....

    Aircraft Stainless Steel would be a better choise .. IMO

  17. #37

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    Quote Originally Posted by Dragstews View Post
    I'm not a fan of those ....

    Aircraft Stainless Steel would be a better choise .. IMO
    ^^^ This.

    Jim

  18. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dragstews View Post
    I'm not a fan of those ....

    Aircraft Stainless Steel would be a better choise .. IMO
    Agree 100% - aircraft stainless clamps are the correct clamp.

  19. #39
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    Thanks

    OP, Don't use those style... lol

  20. #40
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    Quote Originally Posted by Akamm47 View Post
    Not trying to hijack here, somewhat similar question related, I have oring intake and heads but the previous owner had the two part style clamps, are these ok to run or should I switch to the stock aircraft type.
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    Just to be clear the aircraft type are not stock configuration - they are aftermarket.

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