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  1. #1

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    Default 81 shovel compensator

    I'm I the middle of putting my primary back together, had a bitch to remove compensator bolt, but after welding a socket to a 6 ft, pipe got it off. the ? I have now is a bought a new nut and cup because it looked like the last person to wrench the old one over did it and bent the cup and I jacked the bolt. my issue now is when putting back together and tighten up. the cup is still loose with bolt tight. I'm thinking spacer, but would that put my primary chain out of line. Any thoughts

  2. #2
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    Quote Originally Posted by tomt View Post
    I'm I the middle of putting my primary back together, had a bitch to remove compensator bolt, but after welding a socket to a 6 ft, pipe got it off. the ? I have now is a bought a new nut and cup because it looked like the last person to wrench the old one over did it and bent the cup and I jacked the bolt. my issue now is when putting back together and tighten up. the cup is still loose with bolt tight. I'm thinking spacer, but would that put my primary chain out of line. Any thoughts
    Yep pics would be really nice........

    A compensator bolt?????????

    Plus you said... {I have now is a bought a new nut and cup}........ What kind of cup did you buy???

    Also do you have a manual for your bike???????

  3. #3

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    Assuming you are not mixing shovel and evo compensator parts, if the cover is loose when the nut is tight, there is wear in the assembly. There are several places that wear. Yes, you can shim it to "take up" the wear. A washer under the head of the nut is NOT, repeat, NOT the way to do this. It will make the cover tight, but does not compensate (no pun intended) for the wear.

    The best thing is to use an extra belleville washer from another cover, and add it to your cover, doubling the outer washer, not opposite it (if you know how a belleville washer spring works).

    A solid sprocket is also an option.

    Jim

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    For Chain Primary Drive, 24-tooth sprocket
    for Softail models and Shovelheads from 1972-1990

    Fisher Concepts vibration dampers for both chain and belt primary Big Twin, Sportster, and Buell motors.
    Each unit includes the damper unit and a custom sprocket or pulley.
    Stock compensators are eliminated on Big Twin models to ensure the accurate alignment of the primary drive.
    Last edited by Dragstews; 03-20-2020 at 7:13 PM.

  5. #5

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    Do you think that will help with vibration, I have never tried one.

  6. #6
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    I have one of those Fisher compensators. I thought they were A thing of the past, I don't ever see anything on them. I've had this for 30 years and really never used it.

  7. #7

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    They are a thing of the past, and poorly regarded at that.

    Jim

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    Quote Originally Posted by JBinNC View Post
    They are a thing of the past, and poorly regarded at that.

    Jim
    Since you understand the OP........ What is the cup he bought???

  9. #9

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    Quote Originally Posted by Tattooo View Post
    Since you understand the OP........ What is the cup he bought???
    What he is calling the cup is, I think, what I call the cover, the part with the belleville spring inside.

    There is a "cup" that fits between the cover and the cam, but you can't tell if that is loose when the unit is assembled. I am trying to interpret the text of the OP's post.

    And, if there is any mixing of shovel and evo parts, all bets are off.

    Jim

  10. #10

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    Some of ya were asking for pics to help me. also I think what I called cup might be cover that's won't tighten up. and if someone can tell me what the second pic is. was part of James gasket kit. I was wandering if its a spacer for inside of cover that would tighten it . but I could be way off.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 20200321_100543.jpg   20200321_100612.jpg   20200321_100511.jpg  
    Last edited by tomt; 03-21-2020 at 8:21 AM.

  11. #11

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    That lock plate is for the transmission sprocket nut.

    Jim

  12. #12

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    In your first pic, the small spacer does not belong in your assembly.

    Jim

  13. #13

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    Thanks Jim, now that I'm looking at the manual. and didn't have to remove trans sprocket so I have the extra lock plate.

  14. #14

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    Jim I'm going to pick your brain again. Looking a the Manuel it shows from in out (1) spacer that's on mine is a large one that goes against the rotor (2)shaft extension(3)comp. sprocket(4) sliding cam(5)cup then cover and bolt. the 3 questions I have are (1) Does what I explained sound right. (2) should the sliding cam and cup separate easily, because mine seam pressed together quit tight. and (3) I removed small spacer like you said and cover snugs up the way it should. The question is the primary chain looks real close to cover, do you think someone put it there for space away from chain, then over tightened. I could swear it was in there when I tore it down. Thanks Again Jim

  15. #15

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    You have the late model rotor with the large washer, about 3" diameter. Between that washer and the extension, you add or subtract shims to adjust the chain line. That is important. MOST shovels take a .030 or a .060 shim. Measure from the gasket surface of the inner primary to the outside of the chain near the motor sprocket and the clutch shell to determine if the chain is running straight.

    That extra shim you have may have been used to adjust the chain line. BUT, for those late rotors, there is a .094 shim that MUST be installed under the rotor, between the rotor and the seal spacer on the sprocket shaft.

    If the cup is burred up, it may be tight on the cam, nothing to worry about.

    The chain will be close to the cover, no worries there either.

    Jim

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by JBinNC View Post
    What he is calling the cup is, I think, what I call the cover, the part with the belleville spring inside.

    Jim
    Thank you............

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