newly finished build and not starting

[firstripholdmybeer]

...ensure battery fully charged, points set, timing set, advancer mechanism functioning properly, spark at plugs, wiring correct, grounds fully grounded,
carb ready, intake confirmed to be sealed,compression is measured and confirmed good, valves adjusted, start it.

what advancing mechanism are you referring to?

I am getting spark in both plugs and I just reset the points with TDC. I've read a variety of things for the correct TDC indicator. My motor is a 72 and I went off the dot that sits low from center. I felt through the front plug hole and the piston is right there.

[firstripholdmybeer]

so not starting...got spark? with the key on and points closed,open the points manually,plugs should spark...got spark? can always do a simple plug swap...just' cause they're new,don't mean they're good.
got power to coil? is the timing set correctly? what about the points gap at both lobes - correct and the same?
what about a condenser...new? swap and re-check,but should not be a factor a kickover speed.
what type of plug wires and caps?
are valves set correctly? got compression?
got gas? got any intake leaks?
carb set at standard settings and confirmed? which carb ya got? cleaned properly with all passages clear and correct needles and jets?
what other info can ya share so we don't gotta guess?

I like to have the ignition power at key switch to be the only connection at that point; the stop switch can go to the accessories with the other lights.

new points and condensor and just confirmed I have spark. my plugs are NGK and wires came as a kit from Lowbrow.

the carb is a super E and is very clean inside. I have set it to S&S's basic setup recommendation for startup.

the bike isn't even trying to start so I'm not to concerned about proper jets yet.

it could be my ignition switch is wired weird, but it seems straight forward to me and seems like everything has power. I'll post a picture of it below. it's a momentary switch (like a car has) that can be used with a starter. I have my battery plugged up to the "B" terminal and then Lights and ignition plugged up to terminal "A".

https://www.ebay.com/p/681385535?iid=391302440787&chn=ps&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-117182-37290-0&mkcid=2&itemid=391302440787&targetid=882904020427&device=c&mktype=pla&googleloc=9032472&poi=&campaignid=6469981122&mkgroupid=86285324342&rlsatarget=pla-882904020427&abcId=1141176&merchantid=108610632&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIuf24zIKv6AIVF8RkCh0bkg4SEAQYAyABEgIdm_D_BwE

[Guest]

when you fitted the points, did you either wash them with thinners or file the points faces with a points file ?...
I only ask because in days of old, & still with some high end points, the contacts were coated in a sort of thin oily lacquer
coating to preserve them from corrosion etc while in storage, I recently has a set of accel points that were dead until I washed them in thinners then they worked great...….. worth a look if ya cant find why it wont spark....

[firstripholdmybeer]

when you fitted the points, did you either wash them with thinners or file the points faces with a points file ?...
I only ask because in days of old, & still with some high end points, the contacts were coated in a sort of thin oily lacquer
coating to preserve them from corrosion etc while in storage, I recently has a set of accel points that were dead until I washed them in thinners then they worked great...….. worth a look if ya cant find why it wont spark....

I'll give that a try, but I think they're functioning since the plugs are sparking. Ive also seen the point spark when I was messing with it while the battery was on.

[69Glide]

what advancing mechanism are you referring to?

I am getting spark in both plugs and I just reset the points with TDC. I've read a variety of things for the correct TDC indicator. My motor is a 72 and I went off the dot that sits low from center. I felt through the front plug hole and the piston is right there.

If you are setting the timing at TDC then you will not get it to run. Timing should be set at 35 Deg BEFORE TDC. Just something to double-check. Some of these motors may have different flywheels installed and different timing marks. The 35 deg advance mark should be a straight line, the off center hole is not the timing mark you should be using. Make sure that the straight line comes into the timing window before the front piston gets to TDC.

Just something to check.

Good luck with it.

[JBinNC]

If you are setting the timing at TDC then you will not get it to run. Timing should be set at 35 Deg BEFORE TDC. Just something to double-check. Some of these motors may have different flywheels installed and different timing marks. The 35 deg advance mark should be a straight line, the off center hole is not the timing mark you should be using. Make sure that the straight line comes into the timing window before the front piston gets to TDC.

Just something to check.

Good luck with it.

You can set idle timing with the TDC mark at the rear of the timing hole, it's in the book. Rough timing to get it running. Good for beside the road repairs. The manual emphasizes that the advance timing should be set with a timing light after the motor is running.

I can guarantee that if you do the idle timing right, you can kick the motor to life.

Jim

[69Glide]

You can set idle timing with the TDC mark at the rear of the timing hole, it's in the book. Rough timing to get it running. Good for beside the road repairs. The manual emphasizes that the advance timing should be set with a timing light after the motor is running.

I can guarantee that if you do the idle timing right, you can kick the motor to life.

Jim

Agree - If he has stock 1970 wheels either method should work. If he has unknown replacement wheels then I believe checking with the 35 deg mark may be a worthwhile check - only takes a minute.

Just an observation - use it if helps - otherwise ignore and move on.

[Tattooo]

I can guarantee that if you do the idle timing right, you can kick the motor to life.

Jim

I have a question........... What is idle timing??????? I haven't heard that term before unless that's setting it at idle once it's running?????

Or is that the same thing as static timing????

[69Glide]

I have a question........... What is idle timing??????? I haven't heard that term before unless that's setting it at idle once it's running?????

Or is that the same thing as static timing????

Another term for base timing before any advance is added by the advance unit. IF the advance unit is up to snuff (most are worn) and the springs are not sprung (most are) then theory says that at idle speed there should be no advance added.

[Tattooo]

Another term for base timing before any advance is added by the advance unit. IF the advance unit is up to snuff (most are worn) and the springs are not sprung (most are) then theory says that at idle speed there should be no advance added.

Really?? So how do you set base timing at idle when a bike isn't running????????

Plus what do you do if you don't have an advance unit like in an early bike or a timing light??????

I NEVER set my points with a timing light, I ONLY use a test light............... And ALL of my bikes are one kick bikes........ Even my 79 Low Rider.........

Sorry for the interjection as I'm not giving advice........... Just trying to understand the help that is being given to the OP..........

[69Glide]

My method is put the front cyl on compression, 35 deg advance mark centered in the timing window, hold advance unit cam fully advanced (fully ccw on cone motor, fully cw on generator motor, or fully advance a manual advance timer), points should just be beginning to open at this point. This works for the old manual advance timers and the auto advance timers as well. Then you warm up the bike and ride it to dial in the timing - or use a timing light if that is your preference. I like to ride the bike a bit because the ideal timing will vary depending on cam, compression ratio, riding style, single or dual plug heads, etc. Timing mark was engineered for the stock cam timing and compression ratio.

I don't use the idle timing process that Jim refers to - but as I said either will work. We are all tryin' to skin the same cat.

[Tattooo]

^^^^^^^ Awesome.......^^^^^^^^^^^

Yep I agree.........

[Dragstews]

Jimiemycricket

Sounds like Power Timing .... !!

[Tattooo]

Jimiemycricket

Sounds like Power Timing .... !!

Yes sir and it works for sure.............

[Guest]

i used to do the test light method but on my cammed 1340, i just gap the points at 0.18 on both cam lobes, adjust the backing plate so the stantions are in the middle of the slots and it fires up super easy. After it warms up a little, I will every so slightly adjust the plate back and forward until i find the sweet spot that she sounds happiest. works for me