newly finished build and not starting

[firstripholdmybeer]

just finished up my 72 shovel build and I followed the below wiring diagram to a T minus the horn. battery is fully charged, headlight and brake are getting power just fine, and regulator is a new drag specialties. Only thing that isn't new is the stator. what's best way to check if the stator is bad?

All of that aside, any other ideas here?

side info: I'm running brake light, Headlight, brake switch, and then the charging system. pretty simple setup. Ignition is points.

[BuddhahoodVato]

Recheck

Check it all again, pimple shovels are not my forte. good luck........

just finished up my 72 shovel build and I followed the below wiring diagram to a T minus the horn. battery is fully charged, headlight and brake are getting power just fine, and regulator is a new drag specialties. Only thing that isn't new is the stator. what's best way to check if the stator is bad?

All of that aside, any other ideas here?

side info: I'm running brake light, Headlight, brake switch, and then the charging system. pretty simple setup. Ignition is points.

[ATTACH=CONFIG]101033[/ATTACH]

[DoomBuggy]

Test the coil by pulling a plug, make sure the points are in an open position, give it power and then use a screwdriver to short across the open points, if you have a spark that is one less thing to worry about.

[pan620]

stator has nothing to do with not starting, got spark?

[JBinNC]

The best way to check a stator is with a 110V test light. You will have to make one, of course, and be careful using it. On a two post stator, neither post should show continuity to ground (the motor case). There should be continuity between the posts. Why 110V? Because the winding insulation can leak current to ground under load, and the stator can operate at 60V AC or more at high rpm. A volt ohm meter does not test at high enough voltage to detect this.

If the stator passes the open and ground test, you can test the output roughly by hooking an incandescent drop light to it. Light should glow with motor idling and get brighter with revs.

BUT, none of that matters as far as your no-start problem is concerned. The alternator is divorced from the wiring harness by a diode in the regulator, so if the regulator is working, nothing happens from the alternator until you have some revs.

If the bike won't start, do this rough check:
Pull the plugs, hook the wires up, and lay them on the heads. Kick the motor over and look for a good spark at both plugs. Dim shade helps, you may not see a spark in bright sun. With a wasted spark system, both plugs must be grounded to get a spark, so treat them the same. (They are at each end of the secondary winding. )

No spark, check the points and maybe replace the condenser, even if it is new. If you have spark, check your timing.

As far as the fuel system goes, if you slosh some gas into the carb throat, the motor should start and run if the ignition is good, no matter the carb or fuel system condition. Fire is a danger from this test.

Good luck,
Jim

[TriNortchopz]

so not starting...got spark? with the key on and points closed,open the points manually,plugs should spark...got spark? can always do a simple plug swap...just' cause they're new,don't mean they're good.
got power to coil? is the timing set correctly? what about the points gap at both lobes - correct and the same?
what about a condenser...new? swap and re-check,but should not be a factor a kickover speed.
what type of plug wires and caps?
are valves set correctly? got compression?
got gas? got any intake leaks?
carb set at standard settings and confirmed? which carb ya got? cleaned properly with all passages clear and correct needles and jets?
what other info can ya share so we don't gotta guess?

I like to have the ignition power at key switch to be the only connection at that point; the stop switch can go to the accessories with the other lights.

[JBinNC]

so not starting...got spark? with the key on and points closed,open the points manually,plugs should spark...got spark? can always do a simple plug swap...just' cause they're new,don't mean they're good.
got power to coil? is the timing set correctly? what about the points gap at both lobes - correct and the same?
what about a condenser...new? swap and re-check,but should not be a factor a kickover speed.
what type of plug wires and caps?
are valves set correctly? got compression?
got gas? got any intake leaks?
carb set at standard settings and confirmed? which carb ya got? cleaned properly with all passages clear and correct needles and jets?
what other info can ya share so we don't gotta guess?

I like to have the ignition power at key switch to be the only connection at that point; the stop switch can go to the accessories with the other lights.

Agree, except for one point.

A bad condenser will cause hard starting or no start.

Jim

[TriNortchopz]

okay,my experience has been rough idle and major breakup at load...verify by excessive arcing at points while running.

[JakeF]

In addition to all of the above, what's your compression after the fresh rebuild? Leakdown test?

[Davestune]

Agree, except for one point.

A bad condenser will cause hard starting or no start.

Jim

and look yellow

[heyyodho]

How exactly are you starting it and what happens? I’m assuming kick starting since you’re using that diagram. No signs of life at all?

[firstripholdmybeer]

after a good amount of frustration I think I've found a obvious culprit. the stator has a two pin where I need a 4 pin. my old regulator was two pin ( the one that came with the motor). my new regulator is a 4 pin 15 amp and some how my dumbass didn't notice or just assumed I only needed the 2 that had fit properly out of the 4 on the plug. so, I've order a new stator with a 4 pin male and I don't see why that count do the trick. so for wasting everyones time, I'm a idiot

[TriNortchopz]

so, I've order a new stator with a 4 pin male and I don't see why that count do the trick.

Stator is part of the charging circuit, not ignition circuit.
Disconnect the stator/regulator wire,ensure battery is fully charged,go through all steps identified by all above,then start it.

Again,stator rotor,rectifier,regulator (and battery) is part of the charging system...

you can start your bike without a charging system...

ensure battery fully charged, points set, timing set, advancer mechanism functioning properly, spark at plugs, wiring correct, grounds fully grounded,
carb ready, intake confirmed to be sealed,compression is measured and confirmed good, valves adjusted, start it.

[firstripholdmybeer]

stator has nothing to do with not starting, got spark?

no, no spark. going to have to try what Doom Buggy suggested.

[firstripholdmybeer]

thans for all the responses people. Trinortchopz and Jim, I'm going to start doing some process of elimination today from what you guys have laid out. I'm positive the timing is going and the points have sparked when I was adjusting it and forgot to turn the battery off. I'll start with the ignition coil and go from there.