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  1. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by 69Glide View Post
    If you are setting the timing at TDC then you will not get it to run. Timing should be set at 35 Deg BEFORE TDC. Just something to double-check. Some of these motors may have different flywheels installed and different timing marks. The 35 deg advance mark should be a straight line, the off center hole is not the timing mark you should be using. Make sure that the straight line comes into the timing window before the front piston gets to TDC.

    Just something to check.

    Good luck with it.
    You can set idle timing with the TDC mark at the rear of the timing hole, it's in the book. Rough timing to get it running. Good for beside the road repairs. The manual emphasizes that the advance timing should be set with a timing light after the motor is running.

    I can guarantee that if you do the idle timing right, you can kick the motor to life.

    Jim

  2. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by JBinNC View Post
    You can set idle timing with the TDC mark at the rear of the timing hole, it's in the book. Rough timing to get it running. Good for beside the road repairs. The manual emphasizes that the advance timing should be set with a timing light after the motor is running.

    I can guarantee that if you do the idle timing right, you can kick the motor to life.

    Jim
    Agree - If he has stock 1970 wheels either method should work. If he has unknown replacement wheels then I believe checking with the 35 deg mark may be a worthwhile check - only takes a minute.

    Just an observation - use it if helps - otherwise ignore and move on.

  3. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by JBinNC View Post
    I can guarantee that if you do the idle timing right, you can kick the motor to life.

    Jim
    I have a question........... What is idle timing??????? I haven't heard that term before unless that's setting it at idle once it's running?????

    Or is that the same thing as static timing????

  4. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tattooo View Post
    I have a question........... What is idle timing??????? I haven't heard that term before unless that's setting it at idle once it's running?????

    Or is that the same thing as static timing????
    Another term for base timing before any advance is added by the advance unit. IF the advance unit is up to snuff (most are worn) and the springs are not sprung (most are) then theory says that at idle speed there should be no advance added.

  5. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by 69Glide View Post
    Another term for base timing before any advance is added by the advance unit. IF the advance unit is up to snuff (most are worn) and the springs are not sprung (most are) then theory says that at idle speed there should be no advance added.
    Really?? So how do you set base timing at idle when a bike isn't running????????

    Plus what do you do if you don't have an advance unit like in an early bike or a timing light??????

    I NEVER set my points with a timing light, I ONLY use a test light............... And ALL of my bikes are one kick bikes........ Even my 79 Low Rider.........

    Sorry for the interjection as I'm not giving advice........... Just trying to understand the help that is being given to the OP..........

  6. #26
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    My method is put the front cyl on compression, 35 deg advance mark centered in the timing window, hold advance unit cam fully advanced (fully ccw on cone motor, fully cw on generator motor, or fully advance a manual advance timer), points should just be beginning to open at this point. This works for the old manual advance timers and the auto advance timers as well. Then you warm up the bike and ride it to dial in the timing - or use a timing light if that is your preference. I like to ride the bike a bit because the ideal timing will vary depending on cam, compression ratio, riding style, single or dual plug heads, etc. Timing mark was engineered for the stock cam timing and compression ratio.

    I don't use the idle timing process that Jim refers to - but as I said either will work. We are all tryin' to skin the same cat.
    Last edited by 69Glide; 03-23-2020 at 7:07 PM.

  7. #27
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    ^^^^^^^ Awesome.......^^^^^^^^^^^

    Yep I agree.........

  8. #28
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    Jimiemycricket

    Sounds like Power Timing .... !!

  9. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dragstews View Post
    Jimiemycricket

    Sounds like Power Timing .... !!
    Yes sir and it works for sure.............

  10. #30

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    i used to do the test light method but on my cammed 1340, i just gap the points at 0.18 on both cam lobes, adjust the backing plate so the stantions are in the middle of the slots and it fires up super easy. After it warms up a little, I will every so slightly adjust the plate back and forward until i find the sweet spot that she sounds happiest. works for me

  11. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by 69Glide View Post
    If you are setting the timing at TDC then you will not get it to run. Timing should be set at 35 Deg BEFORE TDC. Just something to double-check. Some of these motors may have different flywheels installed and different timing marks. The 35 deg advance mark should be a straight line, the off center hole is not the timing mark you should be using. Make sure that the straight line comes into the timing window before the front piston gets to TDC.

    Just something to check.

    Good luck with it.
    Ah ok, so many different pieces of info out there. Iíll give that a try. I just checked compression and I have 65 in the front 0 in the rear. So on to fixing that dammit!

  12. #32
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    So with almost no compression, it will definitely never start regardless of your timing. Get that sorted and see how she does. Good luck.

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    Quote Originally Posted by firstripholdmybeer View Post
    Ah ok, so many different pieces of info out there. I’ll give that a try. I just checked compression and I have 65 in the front 0 in the rear.

    Well damn, No wonder the fucker won't start................

  14. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by firstripholdmybeer View Post
    Ah ok, so many different pieces of info out there. I’ll give that a try. I just checked compression and I have 65 in the front 0 in the rear. So on to fixing that dammit!
    Don't freak out over the compression just yet. I take it that this bike has been sitting for some time?

    Faced with low/different compression readings, you first need to adjust the valves CORRECTLY. Then do the compression test again, with the throttle wide open of course, and note any change. Then add a little oil to each combustion chamber and do the test again, again noting any change.

    Then report back, and the crew here will advise.

    Jim

  15. #35
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    I've got bikes running with numbers like that. I can enlighten you, but compression tests as above first.

    Jim

  16. #36
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    I want to share an experience I found today.
    I have been following this thread among others, and now experiencing a similarity, with a 1973 80" shovel I rebuilt over the winter, now weather good enough to oil & fuel it to try, only mine started and ran on only one cylinder.
    Rear cylinder running cold, has spark at plug, front and rear cylinders 80 psi compression, new cylinder/piston/rings kit, new cylinder heads, recheck valve lash and is correct on solids.
    I get to thinking that I know it is a dual fire ignition, so I swap plug wire positions on the coil, same results.
    So I change the rear plug wire, (already put another set of plugs in), get same thing, cold rear head, no v-twin cadence, wet plug & plug has spark, huh?
    So I go to the ignition module to take a look, and voila, one of the magnets in the rotor for the pick-up coil, was coming out.
    I don't know how that happened, the other one was still covered in epoxy, now this one was returned to its slot, with a minute dab of pure silicon to hold it in place, and now she runs fine.

  17. #37
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    Quote Originally Posted by firstripholdmybeer View Post
    I just checked compression and I have 65 in the front 0 in the rear. So on to fixing that dammit!
    Adjust pushrods and check compression again.
    If comp comes up, good. Try to start her...
    If not pull pushrods and do a "redneck leakdown"

    If it's a fresh motor, might wanna re-torque the heads first

  18. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by JBinNC View Post
    I've got bikes running with numbers like that. I can enlighten you, but compression tests as above first.

    Jim
    You never got one running with 0psi compression, bub.

  19. #39
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    Quote Originally Posted by BadMonkeyMW View Post
    You never got one running with 0psi compression, bub.
    Yes, on one cylinder. Kick start too. It was a pan that had set for over 20 years. After a start and warm up, compression returned to normal (rings were stuck) and it is still running today. You need more experience.

    Jim

  20. #40
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    Quote Originally Posted by JBinNC View Post
    Yes, on one cylinder. Kick start too. It was a pan that had set for over 20 years. After a start and warm up, compression returned to normal (rings were stuck) and it is still running today. You need more experience.

    Jim
    I've got plenty of experience, you didn't specify you could get it going as long as one cylinder had compression. I'll agree with you on that. Plenty of different circumstances where the engine will only be running on one jug, as I know you're aware of. I was referring more to any idea of it actually running with no compression in either.

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