I rewired my bike after blowing a fuse using the turn signals. The bike had one other electrical problem the neutral light would stay on dimly when in gear. I used a multimeter to test the switches and looked inside to check the soldering. Rewired it up and it tested fine parked with the engine and headlight running.
After the rewiring I tested the turn signals parked and running, they worked but I blew the 20 amps fuse from the bat to ignition trying to kick the bike to life. Using the horn makes the tach needle jump and makes the turn signal indicators, oil light and neutral light, spark very dimly along with the frequency of the horn. When the bike is running and the horn is removed from the circuit the same lights flicker along with cadence of the engine. I’m running two 12 gauge wires for main hot and ground and another set of 16 for the lights hot. All the items up front use the same ground.
I’m running points with a 5 ohm coil. All of the lights are low amp leds. Bike is kick only and the battery is rated 8AH.
Should certain items on the bike have their own hot and ground?
After the rewiring I tested the turn signals parked and running, they worked but I blew the 20 amps fuse from the bat to ignition trying to kick the bike to life. Using the horn makes the tach needle jump and makes the turn signal indicators, oil light and neutral light, spark very dimly along with the frequency of the horn. When the bike is running and the horn is removed from the circuit the same lights flicker along with cadence of the engine. I’m running two 12 gauge wires for main hot and ground and another set of 16 for the lights hot. All the items up front use the same ground.
I’m running points with a 5 ohm coil. All of the lights are low amp leds. Bike is kick only and the battery is rated 8AH.
Should certain items on the bike have their own hot and ground?
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