T120 rear brake plate interchangeability

**Dougtheinternetannoyance123** · 02-12-2020, 12:49 PM

A) Your question is not making a lot of sense, the outer brake plate is a plate steel thing on the pre 71 rear wheels, mostly the same going back into the 50s and unit.preunit 500 and 650, the brake arm varies between years, (IE: Brake rod alignment to brake pedal) But the drum itself varies between bolt on sprocket and cast in sprocket depending on year. (Bolt on started around 67?) but most the drum itself ALL bolted to the rear hub the same except a rare option was the QD hubs, which for certain people, if you have one of them, would very much happily trade or purchase it.
*QD hub was an option and only came stock on a few selected models.

The Conical hubs are a totally different design, and while ANYTHING is possible with enough metal fab, machine work or welding, NO... not even close. You can look at parts books for free and even download them on several websites.

Further, there is a couple variations in conical hubs, the bearing retainers and spacers differ so if you have orphan parts, make sure what you have or looking at as they may look the same but are not.

Lastly,,, Brake plates on the conicals (There was also large and small conicals, the BSA B50 and the Triumph trail blazer in the OIF used small hubs) tend to crack. Not a big deal and easily repairable, (They weld decent and good time to brace the problem areas) But many people dont do that and instead there is a whole shitload of orphan hubs with no brake plates because many people just tried to find a replacement brake plate instead of fixing what they have. So common to see a hub minus brake plate.

## Same reason you see Bare BSA A65 alloy heads minus rocker arms and shafts,spacers etc. To unbolt a BSA head, generally the rocker arms have to be removed, so people store them seperate or lose the parts. They never seem to get re-united so a ton of BSA heads and hard to find the parts to put them back together.

**Dinnertimedave** · 02-12-2020, 1:20 PM

Wow

Thanks for that Doug, you hit the nail on the head near the end, I bought the hub without a brake plate, they're nigh on impossible to get hold of over here.......I've had several brain waves, thought an A10 one would work (cable brake too, it is a chop so originality is not paramount), no chance. Kawasaki KZ650 isn't impossible, need to turn the brake actuators down, the shoes are far too wide. Then I remembered I've got a couple of the mid-sixties brakes in the workshop and thought I'd ask on here before I spend two hours wading through the layers of crap down the bottom of the 'shop

Looks like it's Kawasaki then

Thanks, Dave

**Dougtheinternetannoyance123** · 02-12-2020, 11:18 PM

Well, depends on what you are doing. Also, if a preunit or unit as most had on unit models a shock absorber in the clutch hub, earlier and most preunits had the shock absorber on the end of the crank with a big coiled spring.
So, some asian bikes have very NICE shock absorbers in the rear wheel, big paddles and rubber bumpers which sure helps on drivetrain damage.
This is even more of an issue for Nortons. (Norton gearboxs need all the help they can get)
Depending on WHAT you are building, might be an Asian bike rear wheel might be your solution,, We used to have a guy locally who built customs, chops and bobbers but had a weird quirk.. Would put a drum on the front and a disc on the back, so looked odd to me, But if you are running disc in the front, your choices for the rear are wide open if you go asian.

I can send some detailed photos of the stock brake plates if you like, And measurements. The BSA QD hub brakes for singles and twins look very similar but some variations, Id have to play around with them to see what they space or align up as, but they look very similar, so beware of any for sale online as most wheeler dealers dont know the difference.

** However, likely I will be on the road for a few days so, might be Monday before I can post again.