Cast neck from hell... Bearing od too large?

[Scoobydude]

Got this cast neck a while ago that seemed half finished. Backbone hole was close enough to 1.5"... A little over, but I needed some wiggle room for something. Downtube holes were drilled like a half inch in at 1" and very cadywompus, so I sent it to John at hard tail choppers and he did a killer job redrilling them . I was just looking for some neck cups and went to measure the neck, which seemed machined out, but it's at 1.315 up top And 1.320 at the bottom in the id, also just noticed it's about 3/32 too long. Just read id should be at 1.3125. maybe this thing wasn't machined at all in the first place...ugghhh, anyone have any words of wisdom??? Spent some good change on this thing so far, but what could I do about the steering neck itself.

[farmall]

Who sold it to you so I never buy one? Post clear pics too which may help others avoid rape.

You can machine it to any bore or height you like then adapt the results. It's standard machine shop work so if John did ya right I'd get a quote and pay him to sort the rest of it. He might bore the casting and install a sleeve, or just bore it and machine a new cup.

[TriNortchopz]

Sounds like a bit more machining to do...one, to make it the correct length...typical should be 5.625".

From Merch:
"The steering neck is an important but simple part of frame construction. For the typical HD style custom frame, the neck needs to be 5-5/8” tall with a .800” deep counter bore 1.313” in diameter for press in chrome bearing cups.
This makes a three-piece assembly (not including races, bearings and dust covers) measuring slightly over 7” tall.
The steering axle is typically 1” diameter so the neck needs a 1-1/8 or 1-1/4 through bore...
It is recommended that wall thickness of .188” is maintained in any cross section of the steering neck and seamless or billet material is used for construction."

You could get the bores bored out then sleeved to get them to standard size so they will be a press fit for the cups...as long as you are able to maintain the wall thickness of more than the recommended 0.188"
and not bastardized, which is another option...turn down the spigots on the cups and get sleeves on them to fit the bores of the neck ya got now..

You already got the neck too? and the cups?
I would make the neck right by correcting the length, and boring/sleeving the bores to standard 1.3125" size. That way, any parts swap in the future for you or the next owner will be standard items.

[confab]

Probably a stupid question.. But could you use Green Loctite Sleeve Locker?

It's just a steering head bearing cup.. And there's a lot of surface area there.


????

[Scoobydude]

Your right, i should, I was freaking out for a second. Nobody really knows where it came from, a couple people have them. I think they are blem castings of some sort. Irish rich was thinking they are from some aftermarket company called Moon from a while back ago.

[farmall]

Probably a stupid question.. But could you use Green Loctite Sleeve Locker?
It's just a steering head bearing cup.. And there's a lot of surface area there.

Not stupid at all since necks aren't heavily loaded by machinery standards and even then anaerobics can do the job. If the Henkel site says it or something else is appropriate (they offer a nice variety) I'd be all about industrial solutions.

[Scoobydude]

I'm fairly retarded, I've never heard of sleeve locker. Just looked it up. I have an oversized od on a spool hub, do you think that would be too much heat on that stuff?

I'd be afraid to use it on the neck if it hasnt been machined, I mean what is really aligning everything?

[confab]

Heat isn't a problem.. It is rated for heat. 350 on the stuff I use, I think?

We use it here to hold servo bore bushings in place after reaming them. Buried in your transmission, covered with burning hot fluid and under hundreds of pounds of pressure, and it is fine.

I would try it if it were me.. But - Disclaimer - I'm a noob and know f___ all about harleys.

To align tapered timkens, wouldn't you just bolt the head on it?

[farmall]

To align tapered timkens, wouldn't you just bolt the head on it? .

Yep. I seat neck Timkens like wheel bearings.

Harleys and other common vintage frames are far from precise but the cup alignment to neck casting won't be an issue because the neck with cups installed should be aligned in your frame jig before welding since the plain neck bore would not perfectly match the axis of the installed steering stem due to bore error. IRL a few thou ain't shit but more accuracy is always better.

[flatman]

Could you knurl the neck cup for an interference fit then locktite them in?

[farmall]

No reason why not since the cups won't be hardened. A mandrel would be great for holding them. Of course if ya have a lathe to knurl them you could turn any cup you want. Stainless would be pretty cool on a scoot where it was visible since it would never pit.

[Scoobydude]

I remember in the cbh reading to expect things like the axle plates to be off within a 1/4 inch when welding the rear upper legs on. How off were these older frames?

[Tattooo]

There is usually a reason something is cheap...........

[Tattooo]

How off were these older frames?

All the vintage frames I have dealt with that I have had a need to measure have been dead nuts...............

[flatman]

If you dont have a lathe you can knurl them at home. Centerpunch, or spring loaded centerpunch either will work. Just start making marks around the piece. Yea I know, but sometimes ya gotta do what ya gotta do......