78 Shovel no fire

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  • Robhall
    Senior Member
    • Aug 2009
    • 244

    #16
    Originally posted by thecarfarmer
    Okay, I'm doing this on my phone (PITA) - didn't see where you have or have not check for good spark at the spark plugs.

    I understand you just put new parts on it, however if the membership of this board had a dollar for everytime a brand new part shat the bed, we could buy you a brand-new bike. Or better yet, buy ourselves bikes...

    So, eliminating variables: your compression test was low. Old Harleys valve trains run tighter when they are cold. The lash loosens when hot.

    Suggestion: adjust pushrods, recheck compression.
    Check for good, hot blue spark -at the plugs. Check timing per the instructions. Drain the entire fuel system completely, refill with known good fuel.

    Systematic, methodical, step-by-step diagnosis has fixed more running problems for me than trying to guess what the problem might be and just go there.

    The engine requires air, fuel, and spark to run. If the compression is good, air should not be a problem. This engine is not like a 327 Chevy that can have a timing chain jump. So, if you have compression, that means that the rings and valves are working good enough that the engine should fire, and all the engine may run poorly, it should probably run.

    If you have good, blue spark at the plug. That should not be the problem. If you have spark, then setting the timing per the instructions with the ignition module should make it fire. retarding at a couple of degrees might not hurt, since you are kicking it with your leg... but don't go too crazy with that

    Then, the only thing that is left would be fuel. Leaking intake gaskets would fall under a fuel problem for diagnosis, because they throw off the mixture.

    Once you rule out air and spark, and you have known good gasoline, try squirting some ether in the intake. if everything else is reasonably close the bike WILL light off for a moment.

    Once again: breaking the problem tree down to its component branches, isolating them and testing them independently has proven to me to be the fastest way to figure out what's wrong with these things

    Best of luck!
    Thanks for the reply! I've been out of town for the weekend so I haven't had time to mess with it. I checked the lifters again this morning and they were a hair on the tight side so I loosened them up a bit. Rechecked the compression at 90PSI front and rear. Not ideal, but at least better than before. Spark at the plugs is bluish yellow. Gas is fresh from a reputable station. I can get a cough and burble from spraying some brake cleaner down the throat but it won't run on it. I pulled the intake O-rings and although they weren't cut the clamps on there seem to be a touch on the large side so I'll see what happens when the new seals come in this afternoon. I attached a clip from where it was running a few months ago. It was idling high because of the throttle cable having a slight bind.

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    • Robhall
      Senior Member
      • Aug 2009
      • 244

      #17
      So I figured I should update this. I managed to get it running. I think the main issue was a bad intake seal. I put some FNA tite seals on and it seemed to do the trick. It's running good, but I need to tinker with the carb a bit as it doesn't always run smoothly at and right off of idle. Thanks for the replies!

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