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  1. #1

    Default Forward Mount Ideas

    I am looking for ideas for forward mounted pegs. The way my frame (Kraft Tech rigid) sits now there are tubes welded to the frame with grip tape on them. They are not long enough and they don't fold up, so when I corner hard they grind.

    I have a buddy who is a welder by trade and he builds bikes as well. He offered to weld anything I want onto the frame. I was thinking I would just go with the TC Brothers universal kit and be done with it, but I am wondering what others have used and liked.

    I am also running a jockey shift (clutch on the shift lever) right now. Down the road I may want to switch it to a foot clutch or maybe (but probably not) back to a stock set up.

    Anyway, if you have any opinions on which way to go, and what to throw on there, let me know.

    Thanks in advance

    OC

  2. #2
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    Post a pic of your set up the way it is now..............

  3. #3

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    Quote Originally Posted by Tattooo View Post
    Post a pic of your set up the way it is now..............
    I'll be home in a few and will post some pics.

  4. #4

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    Click image for larger version. 

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    Here are some I uploaded with my phone. Hope they work

    OC

  5. #5
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    I don't see how changing the forwards are going to help at all with the bike being so low to the ground....... But you do need to do something about those pegs.............

    Also on the primary side it looks like the belt pulley would hit before the peg........ But a pic a little further back would be nice...........

    Thanks for posting pics they are very helpful.......

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    An example of shifter on shovel chop:

    Click image for larger version. 

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    an example of an old forward control plan by Santee ; for an XS, but it is a plan:

    Click image for larger version. 

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  7. #7

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    Quote Originally Posted by Tattooo View Post
    I don't see how changing the forwards are going to help at all with the bike being so low to the ground....... But you do need to do something about those pegs.............

    Also on the primary side it looks like the belt pulley would hit before the peg........ But a pic a little further back would be nice...........

    Thanks for posting pics they are very helpful.......
    Yeah, the primAry hits before the pegs on that side, just have to be mindful of that. And you are right on both accounts, can't do anything about how low the bike is, and I need to do something with those pegs

  8. #8

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    Quote Originally Posted by TriNortchopz View Post
    An example of shifter on shovel chop:

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	forward, shifter, Shovelhead.jpg 
Views:	5 
Size:	145.1 KB 
ID:	99622


    an example of an old forward control plan by Santee ; for an XS, but it is a plan:

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	Forwards Control Plans, Santee original, for xs6501.jpg 
Views:	4 
Size:	145.6 KB 
ID:	99623
    This is pretty much what I have in mind. Thanks for posting it. I might just go with something like this and call it good.

  9. #9
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    can't do anything about how low the bike is
    Can see you got a springer on there, but can't see the rockers...what about different rockers, or maybe flippin' the ones you got to add a bit more height?
    What is the size of the front tire? With a 21" you may get another 1/2" depending on what ya got now.

  10. #10

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    Quote Originally Posted by TriNortchopz View Post
    Can see you got a springer on there, but can't see the rockers...what about different rockers, or maybe flippin' the ones you got to add a bit more height?
    What is the size of the front tire? With a 21" you may get another 1/2" depending on what ya got now.
    It's got a 21" on there now.

    I really like the stance of the bike and don't mind scraping a peg, or paying attention to not scraping the primary. I would like to change to some type of mount that I can change out pegs with, and I really don't care for what is on there now. My feet slip off of them and I don't really care for the look. I bought the bike as a basket, but it was originally built as a show bike. I think the pegs are from a double barrel shotgun, but after the frame was painted flat black and parts got dinged up, it lost it's novelty.

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    Quote Originally Posted by OliverClozoff View Post
    can't do anything about how low the bike is,
    Sure you can raise the bike up........ It's real easy.............. Post a pic of the bike from the side......

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by OliverClozoff View Post
    It's got a 21" on there now.

    I really like the stance of the bike and don't mind scraping a peg, or paying attention to not scraping the primary. I would like to change to some type of mount that I can change out pegs with, and I really don't care for what is on there now. My feet slip off of them and I don't really care for the look. I bought the bike as a basket, but it was originally built as a show bike. I think the pegs are from a double barrel shotgun, but after the frame was painted flat black and parts got dinged up, it lost it's novelty.

    Can I ask how changing the pegs is going to keep the belt off of the ground?????????? You couldn't ride that bike where I live as the belt would stay kicked off all of the time.......... It's way to low....... Glad you like the look.....

    I agree I don't care for solid mounted pegs also.......... They are very dangerous............ So is a low bike for that matter.....

    But it's your bike if you like ridding it that way have at it.............

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    Solid pegs are a very bad idea. It's easy to copy the old style Harley big twin mount pads (three bolts on the left, two on the right) then use every of the fucktillion Harley and aftermarket controls designed for those, and the left side tab permits using the best sidestand in motorcycling, the old style Harley jiffy stand. A piece of 1/2" or thicker scrap plate is fine for the pads. Drill and tap then tack weld to frame with controls installed so you can be sure it looks level and square to the rest of the bike. Your welderbro can make those pads effortlessly.

    The mounts W-087 and W-088 are what ya need to copy and it's so easy to do (for someone with the tools) I wouldn't bother buying them. http://www.wascoframe.com/store/panhead-frame-parts

    To get the bolt center dimensions you can use your forwards of choice or an old set (if your bro builds bikes he may have some leftovers) as a pattern or measure a spare frame.

    If you don't want to smash parts into the ground it's easy to raise the motorcycle. Snagging a frame tube during an emergency swerve is a great way to become a meat crayon. Plus or minus three inches doesn't mean shit in the real world and remember the ONLY reason to run super low is to look cool when parked in front of the bar. Otherwise low anti-functional unless the rider is a midget.

    If you're talle rthan say 6"2" (I'm 6'2") and happen to like where the solid pegs sit you can weld your mounting plates to those instead of the stock position outboard of the front motor mount but you'd need to extend any linkages to suit. This is a good opportunity to make your motorcycle fit your body.
    Last edited by farmall; 3 Weeks Ago at 4:45 PM.

  14. #14
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    As far as the belt goes. It looks like your running a 3" belt. Maybe swap everything over to 2". It looks like it would help some.

    Good luck to you.

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    Just buy one of these and replace the bottom motor mount with it and yoou will be able to fit all forwards and jiffi stands made for most big twin Harleys up to at least 1984,...…
    https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Front-Eng...oAAOSwMmVdqDln

    https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/HARLEY-OE...sAAMXQHDlRdOZa

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by tzienlee View Post
    Just buy one of these and replace the bottom motor mount with it and yoou will be able to fit all forwards and jiffi stands made for most big twin Harleys up to at least 1984,...…
    https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Front-Eng...oAAOSwMmVdqDln

    https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/HARLEY-OE...sAAMXQHDlRdOZa
    That's a LOT more money and work (including an engine pull to fully weld the new mount) than cutting and tapping two small plates which he can weld to the downtubes with the engine as-is for the same result. If his bro has a junk frame he can saw them off or use a 6" cutting disc which any weldor should have. I harvested the kickstand pad from my "engine stand" frame with a saw because it was even faster than making another plate then welded on the single "eye" I cut from that (I didn't need the whole tab but the work was the same) to my FXR frame with the engine installed. All quick and painless. If his bro lacks suitable scrap any local metal supplier or machine shop should have plenty in their cutoff pile.

    Those are nice for building from scratch though.
    Last edited by farmall; 3 Weeks Ago at 6:46 PM.

  17. #17

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    Thanks guys. Farmall, you always seem to see things from perspectives that I can't. probably because you've been there and done that

    Cutting mounts off a junk/donor frame seems like a great idea. I am going to hit up my network of grease monkeys to see if anyone has something laying around that will work.

    OC

  18. #18
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    http://www.chopcult.com/forum/showth...l=1#post670486 shows how I attached an old style sidestand to my FXR. The plate is a common forward control mount. The two protruding bolts in the bottom pic thread into the two bolt highway peg mount since FXR didn't come with a sidestand there but the plate shows three holes to match the old three hole mount and four for the sidestand bolts.

    You can use that style plate to lay out hole spacing for either mount. Your bro could unbolt one from one of his scoots to lay out the holes. Ensure plate to be drilled is clean (a quick touch with a flap disc removes mill scale), use the largest Sharpie as layout dye (most machinists do), and scribe through the sample plate. Prick punch, center punch, pilot drill, drill and tap. I like machinists "center drills" for starting holes (their intended purpose) and countersinking. They work in hand drills and every mechanic and fabricator should have a few.

    Drill and tap BEFORE cutting up your plate into final shape because it's easier to hold a larger piece and because once you have tapped bolt holes you can use those to bolt the plate to (whatever) as a holder when contouring it with an angle grinder. It's just basic tab-making fu but the little details make it go easy. Same method works for footpeg mount blocks etc.

    Transfer punches are a very nice addition to your tool box. They are for marking, not violence, so Harbor Freight will do. You can use those through the plate or forward control of your choice to accurately mark for drilling. Random transfer punch video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z2DhsAhuto8

  19. #19

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    Quote Originally Posted by Tattooo View Post
    Sure you can raise the bike up........ It's real easy.............. Post a pic of the bike from the side......
    I probably should have said, "I don't want to". Anything is possible. I just really don't care for the pegs.

    OC

  20. #20

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    Quote Originally Posted by farmall View Post
    http://www.chopcult.com/forum/showth...l=1#post670486 shows how I attached an old style sidestand to my FXR. The plate is a common forward control mount. The two protruding bolts in the bottom pic thread into the two bolt highway peg mount since FXR didn't come with a sidestand there but the plate shows three holes to match the old three hole mount and four for the sidestand bolts.

    You can use that style plate to lay out hole spacing for either mount. Your bro could unbolt one from one of his scoots to lay out the holes. Ensure plate to be drilled is clean (a quick touch with a flap disc removes mill scale), use the largest Sharpie as layout dye (most machinists do), and scribe through the sample plate. Prick punch, center punch, pilot drill, drill and tap. I like machinists "center drills" for starting holes (their intended purpose) and countersinking. They work in hand drills and every mechanic and fabricator should have a few.

    Drill and tap BEFORE cutting up your plate into final shape because it's easier to hold a larger piece and because once you have tapped bolt holes you can use those to bolt the plate to (whatever) as a holder when contouring it with an angle grinder. It's just basic tab-making fu but the little details make it go easy. Same method works for footpeg mount blocks etc.

    Transfer punches are a very nice addition to your tool box. They are for marking, not violence, so Harbor Freight will do. You can use those through the plate or forward control of your choice to accurately mark for drilling. Random transfer punch video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z2DhsAhuto8
    All good info, I'll check out your post and the video.

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