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Your stroker motor shouldn't have any problem pulling tall gearing, I'd say yo're right-on with your thinking...
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Take my 45 and outrun em all .. -
Stick a label on it and it's out of here !!Take my 45 and outrun em all ..Comment
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Excited to get this back together. Gotta order the rest of the parts today. Let me know what I need to send ya for shipping and send me tracking when you get it out the door. thanks jesse!Comment
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I run the 2.60 gears on an 84" flathead. I also have a 25 tranny sprocket, 51 tooth stock drum. Does great at 70-75mph and really well around town. I would think it would do even better with your engine as it has more power than the side valve. I've talked to guys who have run the other close ratio gear set (not the 2.60) and said it wasnt as user friendly. I feel like it's a decent jump from 3rd to 4th, but works well for me as 90% of my riding is at 70+mph.Comment
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Little update and a couple questions. I ground the lip off for the rotary top and put a quick polish on it. Should have shaped it to fit the kicker cover a bit. The OEM kicker cover looks spindly compared to this beefy case.
Got most of it together last nite. Have a couple of questions. I popped the sprocket off so I can run my 25t instead of the 23t that it came with. I took 4th out and I guess this box uses the torrington bearing rather than the rollers. There was no thrust washer on 4th gear? Looking at the shovel manual, there isn't one there. This is correct yeah? Everything else on the mainshaft went together smoothly. I forgot to bring my dial indicator home, so I'm going to double check the endplay this afternoon.
As far as the countershaft goes. I put new rollers in the gears, got it all set up and into the case. Endplay on C/S third is within spec with the thrust washer and snap ring on. It seems as though I'm going to need a very thin kickerside thrust washer to make this work. ~.035ish. I'm gonna call my local guy tomorrow and see if he has a stack I can borrow, or just bring the box to him. I can't seem to find any online that are that thin? The one that came out of it measures roughly .070, and it looks like what I need is about half that. I'm going to take a closer look this afternoon. Should I install the countershaft without the thrust washer, snug it up, and use a feeler gauge to get me in the ballpark? Or is it best to have a stack of washers and go about it with trial and error?
Also, Jesse, I put the case studs in the bottom, but it seems they were pretty loose fit. Was this made for oversize studs?Comment
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There is a correct thread dimension range for a given class fit. An oversize stud would require retapping for a different pitch/diameter stud and the threads would remain aluminum. Loose fit means reduced thread engagement means a weak joint.
Given the load on transmission case studs my personal preference even if they fit snugly would be to install Timeserts or other barrel inserts while it's in hand. (Many aircraft castings come this way new.) Aluminum threads are weak by nature (we rarely use aluminum nuts!) and spreading the load via an insert which also prevents stud movement from wearing the aluminum is the usual solution (industry does this with aluminum jigs and fixtures). If motorcycle and car parts were made to the highest standard there would be mighty few tapped holes in bare aluminum but that would be MUCH more expensive.
I'd use new Grade 8 studs. I expect the holes were tapped somewhat sloppily but that can be measured if desired. Crude way is mic major diameter of test stud, verify it's correct per link below, then insert and wiggle but I'd go straight to inserts if it was mine.
The reason the old transmission/engine interface changed to (old flathead Indian style!) with the Twin Cam is because it's inferior due to poor rigidity. Evey detail I can upgrade = good thing.Comment
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They tightened down as they went in. Just the first few threads were wiggly. The kicker cover studs were tight from the jump. As it sits, the bottom studs are tight in the case, cleaned thoroughly, wire brushed the studs, and red loctited in place. They seem fine. I'm not going to do inserts at this time. Just wondering as they were a little easy to thread in.Comment
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The first threads might have been sloppy but if they tightened up further inand ya loctited then it's reasonably safe. I have a morbid overkill fetish.Comment
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I feel you. I typically am of the mindset of doing it right the first time as well.
Bit of a follow up to what I posted above. After checking out the countershaft endplay again. Seemed like .044 was the clearance between the end of the cluster gear and the kicker side of the trans. That seems like it's way under spec for the thrust washers that are available. I measured the thickness of all the other washers, the retainers, etc and they were all around .060 thick. I also measured the length of the new rollers vs the ones that I took out, same same.
Looking a little further, it seemed there was more room on the forward side of the countershaft bushing than the rear. Here are a couple of pics with just the cluster gear in place and the clutch side thrust washer/bearing retainer.
I got .035 on the rear of the cs bushing and .044 on the front. The shaft fits tight in the bushings. Thoughts? Maybe the holes are not concentric to one another? Or would it be that the bushings need to be faced now that they are installed? I wouldn't think that this is normal, but I haven't ever set one of these up before. I also don't really have the means of getting any better measurements than this. This measurement is also without torquing down the nut on the kicker side, but the countershaft securely up against the stop.Comment
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Not to my knowledge ....
I like using Colony due to them having an abundance of interference ...
More so than Oem studs ...
I use a Jims tool made just for installing those
With the case warmed up to 200/250 degrees and the use of a tee handle, they find their home right fast ...
On the countershaft endplay ..
There are a few diff. washers made for the left side that helps with getting into the range of washers for the right side ...
.050", .055", .060" which is the std size, .065" and .070"
Also I install the C/S low gear on the shaft then take a measurement ...
The way your doing it may give you a false reading ...
" I popped the sprocket off so I can run my 25t instead of the 23t that it came with. I took 4th out and I guess this box uses the torrington bearing rather than the rollers. There was no thrust washer on 4th gear? Looking at the shovel manual, there isn't one there. This is correct yeah? Everything else on the mainshaft went together smoothly. I forgot to bring my dial indicator home, so I'm going to double check the endplay this afternoon."
That's the way that case is made like the Oem 77 and up cases..
No longer all the work in line-lapping the case race for running fit of the loose bearings and dialing in the fourth gear endplay is needed ..
It's predetermined in design to save the Service Tech a bunch of work...
Fourth gear is NOT interchangeable with the 76 and back fourth gears in that case ...Last edited by Dragstews; 02-24-2020, 11:08 AM.Take my 45 and outrun em all ..Comment
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Yeah, I used brand new colony studs. Not too worried about that.
As for the countershaft, I just removed the low gear for the picture. Measurements are the same either way. .044 at the widest point. That would require a washer thickness of .035ish yeah? I guess I could get the washer surface ground for the thickness, but it's still seems out of spec. Still more worried about it not being the same front to back? Should I torque the nut on the countershaft down and remeasure? Can't see that making any more space in there.Comment
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I would run an Overbearing setup from I think it's bare Knuckle choppers with those main drive bearings. $110 shipped when I bought mine.Comment
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Left side being the primary side/outer bearing retainer side? it was .060 if I remember correctly. Its a c-hair proud of the bearing race of the hi gear side. Both inner bearing retainer washers were .060 as well.Comment
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