Replacement early transmission case options?

[pan620]

Are the cases you are selling V-Twin? Great price!

[Dragstews]

No ...

They were made by "STD"
NOS (New Old Stock)

[gorgeous]

Couple pics for those interested. You can see the crack that was welded on the outside. (You can see it on the inside of the second pic.) All the way from the lid, thru the countershaft bushing and to the bottom. The low spot on the gasket surface is on the front primary side where the weld started. The shift fork shaft retaining screw looked like that when I pulled the lid. Surprisingly, I was able to easily back it out with a hammer and screwdriver. There is RTV in literally every orifice of this thing.



Going to get it torn down and see what we're dealing with. Aside from a little surface rust on the gears, they all look to be in decent shape, no damage that I can see...for now.

Like I said, it was working just fine. I just knew it was going to need attention at some point and I plan on doing a lot of miles this summer. Current plan is to send the countershaft off to Jesse and have him fit the new case to what I have. Then it'll be back to me for assembly. Might do a trim to fit the jockey lid and a polish. The lid I have is chrome.

Jesse, what do you think about filling that screw hole that's there for the rotary lid? Looks like that might be in the way if I file the case back to the edge of the lid?

[gorgeous]

Got it torn down last night. Looks to be a mixed bag of OEM, andrews, and some other aftermarket parts. On the older parts, which I think are oem based on the tooling marks, the teeth are shiny and looks like the case hardening is worn off.

This is just the countershaft parts. I guess I didnt take a photo of the rest of it. You can see the cutter marks on the middle of the countershaft that appear to be from a dull cutter used during machining. A couple of the gears have similar marks, which makes me believe this is old OEM stuff.



Question. Would I benefit from changing any of the ratios? It was running a 25t sprocket, stock mechanical brake sprocket (51t) in the back. BDL belt drive, can't remember the ratio of the top of my head. This is an 88" 4 3/4" stroke panhead with shovel intake valves and Andrews C grind. (I am thinking about changing the cam to try and bring the power band down just a little bit, Leineweber J4 or Sifton 468+, but haven't totally decided yet.)

It makes power higher in the rev range ~3500rpm on up....It's plenty fast but it seems like 4th gear pulls from 60-90mph are where it really shines. Feels like it will pull til the valves float. First gear seems very short, I'm reaching for second before I even get across the intersection. So it might tolerate more gear? I might have this backwards though. Would a close ratio set make more sense? Or could I mix and match 1-2-3 to get more usable power and then have 4th as more of a cruising gear? I have a hard time wrapping my head around gear ratios so if anyone wants to school me on that... I will be reading up on this stuff today.

[Dragstews]

A light bike needs FX gearing .... Gone is the super low ratio of the FL's that needed to pull a sidehack from a stop.
Also third gear ratio was closed up a bit ...

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Stock 3rd (1.23 Ratio) (17T & 24T)
Part# 206220 (replaces H/D# 35306-59) (Mainshaft 3rd)
Part# 206215 (replaces H/D# 35306-36) (Mainshaft 3rd)
(This gear requires 1936-58 style cluster gear)
Part# 206330 (replaces H/D# 35700-36) (Cluster: ’36–’76)
Part# 206335 (replaces H/D# 35700-76) (Cluster: ’76–’86)

Replacements for stock main and countershaft 3rd. The design of
drive slots on mainshaft gear has been upgraded to include leadin ramps for quicker, more positive shifting.
G Stock Main Drive Gear (4th)
Part# 204260 (1936–1976) (26 Teeth)
(replaces H/D# 35065-65)
Part# 204280 (1977–1986) (26 Teeth)
(replaces H/D# 35067-77 and 35067-84)
Replacement 4th gears are made with wider drive slots and
steeper lead-in ramps for more positive 3-4 shifting. The "O" ring
groove is a design update for all chain drive 4th gears from 1977
thru 1986.

H Transmission Mainshafts
Part# 208500 (early) H/D# 35040-50, 1937–1964
Part# 208650 (mid) H/D# 35039-65, 1965–1969
Part# 208700 (late) H/D# 35039-70A, 1970–1985 chain
Part# 208800 (late) H/D# 35039-85, belt drive, Late 1984–’86
Replacement mainshafts for all versions of Big Twin boxes. Made
from aircraft alloy steel. Heat treated and finish ground to ensure
maximum durability.

I Transmission Countershafts
Part# 207650 (1941–early 1976) (replaces H/D 35614-65)
Part# 207770 (late 1976–1979) (replaces H/D 35614-77)
Part# 207800 (1980–1985) (replaces H/D 35614-80)
Three types of countershafts fit transmissions thru 1985. They are
not interchangeable, so make sure before you order.
J Transmission Rebuilding Kits (Small Parts)
Bushings, gaskets, locks, keys, and ferrules for completing a
4-speed transmission rebuild. These parts are made by JIMS.
Kit# 210925 (1936–1976)
Kit# 210950 (1977–1979)
Kit# 210975 (1980–1984)

Transmission Gear Kits
Gear kits must be ordered by part numbers listed below which
specify year and 1st and 3rd ratios. Each gear kit includes six
gears, two shift clutches, and two forks as shown on previous
page. (Shafts and small parts kits must be ordered separately.)
Kit# 210150 (2.44 1st, 1.35 3rd) (1936–1976)
Kit# 210250 (2.44 1st, 1.23 3rd) (1936–1976)
Kit# 210350 (2.60 1st, 1.35 3rd) (1936–1976)
Kit# 210450 (2.60 1st, 1.23 3rd) (1936–1976)
Kit# 210550 (2.44 1st, 1.35 3rd) (1977–1984)
Kit# 210650 (2.44 1st, 1.23 3rd) (1977–1984)
Kit# 210750 (2.60 1st, 1.35 3rd) (1977–1984)
Kit# 210850 (2.60 1st, 1.23 3rd) (1977–1984)

[gorgeous]

Thanks jesse. I printed the sheet from andrews so I can go thru and figure it all out.

Also, not a shim in sight when I took it apart. So that pretty much tracks with the box being built by the same shop that did the motor.

[Dragstews]

Also, not a shim in sight when I took it apart. So that pretty much tracks with the box being built by the same shop that did the motor.

[Dragstews]

Nice, even has track lugs .. !!



So much for the back em up gear ..



Not made for the reverse idle gear ...

[gorgeous]

Nice. I'll try and get you some stuff shipped out tomorrow. I'll post pics of what I have and what needs replacing when I get home tonite. Unfortunately, seems like all the expensive bits.

Looks to me that the countershaft needs replacing, so may be a good idea just to order one up rather than me sending this one.

So far, here is the list of part numbers from the book of what all needs replaced.


Main shaft looks fine, marked "HDC" and no other markings, I figured andrews would have marked it if it was theirs. Anyway, I'll post up some pics of what I've got. Then maybe you can just tell me what you need on your end. Bear with me if I've got something wrong here. Trying to figure out some of this shit for myself and these old books can require a little "interpretation" sometimes.

Took me a minute to figure out how to remove the jockey lid shaft, it said to use a valve as a drift to knock it out. I figured it out, but like I said, that took a little figuring for someone who had never done it before.

[Dragstews]

Whoa ... You took apart the lid ...

Hardly ever that needs to come apart unless the bushing has big time ware ..

[gorgeous]

I wouldnt have but the gear on the shift lever isnt spaced properly and is sitting against the case (spring is pushing it too far towards the kicker side, missing a shim or washer or something on the outside. I'll get a pic of that too). It also appears that the shift shaft that attaches to the lever is broken or repaired poorly or something. Didn't get too far into it. It does explain why the bolt holding on the shifter was rubbing the lid though.

[Dragstews]

My, my. my ....

The problems ya run up against dealing with old parts that seen years of use .. (Or abuse) .. ??

[gorgeous]

Ok. Here's the parts that appear to be good. I guess I wont need that 4th gear.



And the bad.


The bearing seems to be totally fine. They hadn't bent all the tabs over and it looks like it was spinning on the shield.(edit: now that I'm thinking about it that doesn't make sense, I had to press the bearing off of the shaft? It's a little suspect) Wore the rubber off, but the bearing seems totally fine. The bearing housing looks rough, I don't really see the need to replace it really...thoughts?



Mainshaft looks serviceable. No grooves or anything I can feel. Will mic it and see if there's any wear.



Countershaft.



Here's why I took the lid apart. That shaft is broke and was welded back on, but not well....

[Dragstews]

Since the counter-shaft cluster gear is toast, ya might think about biting the bullet and get a FX gear set from AP ..
It will have all the gears in one package and being made with a high content of nickel they are far superior over the import stuff ..
Also the lend-in ramps has been improved to aid shifting ...

Just a thought ..

[gorgeous]

My final drive ratio right now is 3.24 with a 25t trans sprocket. If I use the 24t I can bring that up to 3.378.

Using baker's RPM calculator it looks like for the riding I do, a lot of around town and 35mph speed limits, the 2.60/1.23 seems like the right choice, with the 25t trans sprocket. I'll have the 24T that comes with the trans if I need it. Do I have this backwards? Math was never really my thing. hahaha.

I'm going to price this stuff out today jesse, I'll give you a call later on.