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  1. #1
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    Default Replacement early transmission case options?

    My trans was leaving quite the puddle under my bike. I pulled it the other day and the case is pretty well fucked. The gears all look good. It shifted hard into first, but otherwise ok. Jockey lid seems to be in good shape and a decent oem piece. The case is 1948 with a big repair down the primary side. Looks like they went to town with a grinder on the lid gasket surface of the trans and it is no longer flat. Whoever put it together had a field day with rtv and jb weld. Didnt leak there but it's It's leaking from the studs I think.

    The shift fork retaining screw looks fucked, like someone had to cut a slot in it with a grinder and got a bit of the gasket surface as well, so getting that out will be a chore. The cover on the counter shaft bushing on the primary side looks to be held on with rtv, the two screws that I can reach without taking the sprocket off just spin in their holes.

    I can get some pics later if anyone cares to see. It's not pretty. There was a bit of glitter in the oil. I put baker kicker gears and a witch hat TO bearing in it a couple months ago. The TO bearing (wafer) that was in there seems to have lunched itself(wrong bearing for the finger thats in there) and the kicker gears were pretty well fucked as well. So I think that's where the glitter came from, there were much bigger pieces of metal in there then, but none of the gears/dogs look worn at all and it shifted just fine. Was hard to get into first from a stop, had to let the clutch out a bit before it would grab, but that was about it. I figure that may just be a bit of adjustment.

    So before I try and reseal this thing, and go oversize on the studs, and put it back in and pray (not ideal obviously). What are my options for a replacement case? Are the VTwin ones worth a shit? I'd really like to find a Cal Products one because they look like a roots blower and they seem to be well made? (Anyone got one they want to let go of???) Seems like they are getting rare. Should I keep an eye out for another panhead trans case? I'd like to have this one fixed, but it might not be worth the time and money right now to do so. I'm afraid it's to the point that I might not be able to put this one back together once I get it apart. hahaha. Fuck. I understand that anything else will likely need to be line lapped regardless, but that doesnt really worry me.

    What are my options, I'm not trying to buy a whole new trans. Money's not tight, but I have some other changes I'm working on so I'd rather not spend it all on this if I don't have to. I will be doing all labor that doesn't require machining myself.

  2. #2
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    Must have been built by the same Guy that originally built the Pan motor ... ??

    Doesn't seem to be a lot of options on the case these days ...
    The Cal case is the Bad-Boy of the after/market cases, finding one would be a stroke of luck ...

    V-T case may be the only choice ya got ... Haven't used one just yet, but haven't heard anything bad about em .. !!
    Last edited by Dragstews; 01-20-2020 at 10:11 AM.

  3. #3
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    FOR SURE! I have receipts to prove it! hahaha

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    Found ya one ....

    Not a Cal-Products but a NOS STD case...
    Ya have two ways to go .... Buy just the case and do the work for loading up fourth gear at around $200 or
    Buy the case with the fourth gear already installed for $350 ...



    You get what you see in the photo...

    Fourth gear case race installed, line reamed, fitted to std bearings
    Seal spacer, seal, sprocket and nut ....
    Last edited by Dragstews; 01-20-2020 at 2:13 PM.

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dragstews View Post
    Found ya one ....

    Not a Cal-Products but a NOS STD case...
    Ya have two ways to go .... Buy just the case and do the work for loading up fourth gear at around $200 or
    Buy the case with the fourth gear already installed for $350 ...



    You get what you see in the photo...

    Fourth gear case race installed, line reamed, fitted to std bearings
    Seal spacer, seal, sprocket and nut ....
    This could work. I'll give you a call in a couple hours when I have a minute to chat.

  6. #6
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    Please let me know if gorgeous doesn't want it, I think I found a crack in mine.

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    That deal is good for all ...
    Wont be out of stock for a long time yet to come .. (In other words, "Got plenty to go around")

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    That's dirt cheap.

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    Quote Originally Posted by farmall View Post
    That's dirt cheap.
    It is with the fourth gear already installed .. !!

    That be a bit of work to buy a case race then sweat it in the case, after that here's comes line lapping the race to running fit using std bearings.
    Not to mention the cost of the gear, case race, bearings, seal spacer, seal sprocket and nut ...

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Last edited by Dragstews; 01-20-2020 at 6:52 PM.

  10. #10
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    I have cash register eyes and the difference is even better than getting the parts free.

  11. #11
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    ......... ..........

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    Seems like a very reasonable price to me.
    've used a 25 T sprocket in my 74" knuckle with a jockey top and a 24 T sprocket on my 74" Pan with a ratchet top. Both have the 51T drum brake. Any downside to using the larger trans sprocket ? Both seem to run ok .

  13. #13
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    "Any downside to using the larger trans sprocket ? "

    Gotta have the ponies to pull tall gearing, if a Man sticks a 26 T on a stocker he might be disappointed in fourth gear ...
    ____________________________________________

    About the STD Trans case, the reason the top of the case looks a bit odd is it was made to be a uni ...

    Can be used with a ratchet top or a cow-pie lid ...
    Be just a wee bit of work to grind off the lip if a ratchet top was going into play, be just for looks ..
    Last edited by Dragstews; 01-21-2020 at 2:23 PM.

  14. #14
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    [QUOTE=Dragstews;837255]"Any downside to using the larger trans sprocket ? "

    Gotta have the ponies to pull tall gearing, if a Man sticks a 26 T on a stocker he might be disappointed in fourth gear ...
    ____________________________________________

    My understanding is that it brings you closer to a 2:1 ratio which , while not good for performance , is better for lower rpm's at cruising speed. Neither one is a rocket ship but , maybe because they're stripped down , it doesn't seem to be hurting them too much either.

  15. #15
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    ...... ^ ^ ......

  16. #16

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    Are the cases you are selling V-Twin? Great price!

  17. #17
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    No ...

    They were made by "STD"
    NOS (New Old Stock)

  18. #18
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    Couple pics for those interested. You can see the crack that was welded on the outside. (You can see it on the inside of the second pic.) All the way from the lid, thru the countershaft bushing and to the bottom. The low spot on the gasket surface is on the front primary side where the weld started. The shift fork shaft retaining screw looked like that when I pulled the lid. Surprisingly, I was able to easily back it out with a hammer and screwdriver. There is RTV in literally every orifice of this thing.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Going to get it torn down and see what we're dealing with. Aside from a little surface rust on the gears, they all look to be in decent shape, no damage that I can see...for now.

    Like I said, it was working just fine. I just knew it was going to need attention at some point and I plan on doing a lot of miles this summer. Current plan is to send the countershaft off to Jesse and have him fit the new case to what I have. Then it'll be back to me for assembly. Might do a trim to fit the jockey lid and a polish. The lid I have is chrome.

    Jesse, what do you think about filling that screw hole that's there for the rotary lid? Looks like that might be in the way if I file the case back to the edge of the lid?

  19. #19
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    Got it torn down last night. Looks to be a mixed bag of OEM, andrews, and some other aftermarket parts. On the older parts, which I think are oem based on the tooling marks, the teeth are shiny and looks like the case hardening is worn off.

    This is just the countershaft parts. I guess I didnt take a photo of the rest of it. You can see the cutter marks on the middle of the countershaft that appear to be from a dull cutter used during machining. A couple of the gears have similar marks, which makes me believe this is old OEM stuff.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Question. Would I benefit from changing any of the ratios? It was running a 25t sprocket, stock mechanical brake sprocket (51t) in the back. BDL belt drive, can't remember the ratio of the top of my head. This is an 88" 4 3/4" stroke panhead with shovel intake valves and Andrews C grind. (I am thinking about changing the cam to try and bring the power band down just a little bit, Leineweber J4 or Sifton 468+, but haven't totally decided yet.)

    It makes power higher in the rev range ~3500rpm on up....It's plenty fast but it seems like 4th gear pulls from 60-90mph are where it really shines. Feels like it will pull til the valves float. First gear seems very short, I'm reaching for second before I even get across the intersection. So it might tolerate more gear? I might have this backwards though. Would a close ratio set make more sense? Or could I mix and match 1-2-3 to get more usable power and then have 4th as more of a cruising gear? I have a hard time wrapping my head around gear ratios so if anyone wants to school me on that... I will be reading up on this stuff today.

  20. #20
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    A light bike needs FX gearing .... Gone is the super low ratio of the FL's that needed to pull a sidehack from a stop.
    Also third gear ratio was closed up a bit ...

    .../// http://www.hydra-glide.com/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?t=231 \\\...

    Stock 3rd (1.23 Ratio) (17T & 24T)
    Part# 206220 (replaces H/D# 35306-59) (Mainshaft 3rd)
    Part# 206215 (replaces H/D# 35306-36) (Mainshaft 3rd)
    (This gear requires 1936-58 style cluster gear)
    Part# 206330 (replaces H/D# 35700-36) (Cluster: ’36–’76)
    Part# 206335 (replaces H/D# 35700-76) (Cluster: ’76–’86)

    Replacements for stock main and countershaft 3rd. The design of
    drive slots on mainshaft gear has been upgraded to include leadin ramps for quicker, more positive shifting.
    G Stock Main Drive Gear (4th)
    Part# 204260 (1936–1976) (26 Teeth)
    (replaces H/D# 35065-65)
    Part# 204280 (1977–1986) (26 Teeth)
    (replaces H/D# 35067-77 and 35067-84)
    Replacement 4th gears are made with wider drive slots and
    steeper lead-in ramps for more positive 3-4 shifting. The "O" ring
    groove is a design update for all chain drive 4th gears from 1977
    thru 1986.

    H Transmission Mainshafts
    Part# 208500 (early) H/D# 35040-50, 1937–1964
    Part# 208650 (mid) H/D# 35039-65, 1965–1969
    Part# 208700 (late) H/D# 35039-70A, 1970–1985 chain
    Part# 208800 (late) H/D# 35039-85, belt drive, Late 1984–’86
    Replacement mainshafts for all versions of Big Twin boxes. Made
    from aircraft alloy steel. Heat treated and finish ground to ensure
    maximum durability.

    I Transmission Countershafts
    Part# 207650 (1941–early 1976) (replaces H/D 35614-65)
    Part# 207770 (late 1976–1979) (replaces H/D 35614-77)
    Part# 207800 (1980–1985) (replaces H/D 35614-80)
    Three types of countershafts fit transmissions thru 1985. They are
    not interchangeable, so make sure before you order.
    J Transmission Rebuilding Kits (Small Parts)
    Bushings, gaskets, locks, keys, and ferrules for completing a
    4-speed transmission rebuild. These parts are made by JIMS.
    Kit# 210925 (1936–1976)
    Kit# 210950 (1977–1979)
    Kit# 210975 (1980–1984)

    Transmission Gear Kits
    Gear kits must be ordered by part numbers listed below which
    specify year and 1st and 3rd ratios. Each gear kit includes six
    gears, two shift clutches, and two forks as shown on previous
    page. (Shafts and small parts kits must be ordered separately.)
    Kit# 210150 (2.44 1st, 1.35 3rd) (1936–1976)
    Kit# 210250 (2.44 1st, 1.23 3rd) (1936–1976)
    Kit# 210350 (2.60 1st, 1.35 3rd) (1936–1976)
    Kit# 210450 (2.60 1st, 1.23 3rd) (1936–1976)
    Kit# 210550 (2.44 1st, 1.35 3rd) (1977–1984)
    Kit# 210650 (2.44 1st, 1.23 3rd) (1977–1984)
    Kit# 210750 (2.60 1st, 1.35 3rd) (1977–1984)
    Kit# 210850 (2.60 1st, 1.23 3rd) (1977–1984)
    Last edited by Dragstews; 01-23-2020 at 11:37 AM.

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