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  1. #21
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    Thanks jesse. I printed the sheet from andrews so I can go thru and figure it all out.

    Also, not a shim in sight when I took it apart. So that pretty much tracks with the box being built by the same shop that did the motor.

  2. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by gorgeous View Post

    Also, not a shim in sight when I took it apart. So that pretty much tracks with the box being built by the same shop that did the motor.

  3. #23
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    Nice, even has track lugs .. !!



    So much for the back em up gear ..



    Not made for the reverse idle gear ...
    Last edited by Dragstews; 3 Weeks Ago at 12:38 PM.

  4. #24
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    Nice. I'll try and get you some stuff shipped out tomorrow. I'll post pics of what I have and what needs replacing when I get home tonite. Unfortunately, seems like all the expensive bits.

    Looks to me that the countershaft needs replacing, so may be a good idea just to order one up rather than me sending this one.

    So far, here is the list of part numbers from the book of what all needs replaced.
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Main shaft looks fine, marked "HDC" and no other markings, I figured andrews would have marked it if it was theirs. Anyway, I'll post up some pics of what I've got. Then maybe you can just tell me what you need on your end. Bear with me if I've got something wrong here. Trying to figure out some of this shit for myself and these old books can require a little "interpretation" sometimes.

    Took me a minute to figure out how to remove the jockey lid shaft, it said to use a valve as a drift to knock it out. I figured it out, but like I said, that took a little figuring for someone who had never done it before.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails IMG_0161.jpg  

  5. #25
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    Whoa ... You took apart the lid ...

    Hardly ever that needs to come apart unless the bushing has big time ware ..

  6. #26
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    I wouldnt have but the gear on the shift lever isnt spaced properly and is sitting against the case (spring is pushing it too far towards the kicker side, missing a shim or washer or something on the outside. I'll get a pic of that too). It also appears that the shift shaft that attaches to the lever is broken or repaired poorly or something. Didn't get too far into it. It does explain why the bolt holding on the shifter was rubbing the lid though.

  7. #27
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    My, my. my ....

    The problems ya run up against dealing with old parts that seen years of use .. (Or abuse) .. ??


  8. #28
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    Ok. Here's the parts that appear to be good. I guess I wont need that 4th gear.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    And the bad.

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    The bearing seems to be totally fine. They hadn't bent all the tabs over and it looks like it was spinning on the shield.(edit: now that I'm thinking about it that doesn't make sense, I had to press the bearing off of the shaft? It's a little suspect) Wore the rubber off, but the bearing seems totally fine. The bearing housing looks rough, I don't really see the need to replace it really...thoughts?

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Mainshaft looks serviceable. No grooves or anything I can feel. Will mic it and see if there's any wear.

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    Countershaft.

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    Here's why I took the lid apart. That shaft is broke and was welded back on, but not well....
    Last edited by gorgeous; 3 Weeks Ago at 7:03 PM.

  9. #29
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    Since the counter-shaft cluster gear is toast, ya might think about biting the bullet and get a FX gear set from AP ..
    It will have all the gears in one package and being made with a high content of nickel they are far superior over the import stuff ..
    Also the lend-in ramps has been improved to aid shifting ...

    Just a thought ..

  10. #30
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    My final drive ratio right now is 3.24 with a 25t trans sprocket. If I use the 24t I can bring that up to 3.378.

    Using baker's RPM calculator it looks like for the riding I do, a lot of around town and 35mph speed limits, the 2.60/1.23 seems like the right choice, with the 25t trans sprocket. I'll have the 24T that comes with the trans if I need it. Do I have this backwards? Math was never really my thing. hahaha.

    I'm going to price this stuff out today jesse, I'll give you a call later on.

  11. #31
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    Your stroker motor shouldn't have any problem pulling tall gearing, I'd say yo're right-on with your thinking...

  12. #32
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    Stick a label on it and it's out of here !!

  13. #33
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    Excited to get this back together. Gotta order the rest of the parts today. Let me know what I need to send ya for shipping and send me tracking when you get it out the door. thanks jesse!

  14. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by gorgeous View Post
    My final drive ratio right now is 3.24 with a 25t trans sprocket. If I use the 24t I can bring that up to 3.378.

    Using baker's RPM calculator it looks like for the riding I do, a lot of around town and 35mph speed limits, the 2.60/1.23 seems like the right choice, with the 25t trans sprocket. I'll have the 24T that comes with the trans if I need it. Do I have this backwards? Math was never really my thing. hahaha.

    I'm going to price this stuff out today jesse, I'll give you a call later on.
    I run the 2.60 gears on an 84" flathead. I also have a 25 tranny sprocket, 51 tooth stock drum. Does great at 70-75mph and really well around town. I would think it would do even better with your engine as it has more power than the side valve. I've talked to guys who have run the other close ratio gear set (not the 2.60) and said it wasnt as user friendly. I feel like it's a decent jump from 3rd to 4th, but works well for me as 90% of my riding is at 70+mph.

  15. #35
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    Quote Originally Posted by gorgeous View Post
    Let me know what I need to send ya for shipping and send me tracking when you get it out the door. thanks jesse!
    In the mail ...
    PM sent with the # ...

    Much Thanks

    ... Jesse ...

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