Yay, free at last! Hope you don't get mobbed by teary -eyed beautiful women or something....
The great general painting thread
Collapse
Desktop Ad Forum Top
Collapse
Mobile ad top forum
Collapse
X
-
Damn I am seriously hung over today, almost forgot how lousy this feels. Figured I would do something simple and just whip up a painting hood. The idea was to use scrap around the shop and a standard size furnace filter to grab the large particulates. As this is also my wood shop I do have a big ceiling mounted air filtration system which I have charcoal filters for. The hood I built will catch the majority of the over spray keeping the shop clean and the other unit will help keep the nasty stuff at bay. I will of course also wear an appropriate respirator and a throw away painting suit. THIS STUFF IS NASTY!
Once I am ready to start painting I will use some clear plastic tarp material on the sides and top.. This will keep everything contained and allow light in.
Poor Brown Sugar is sitting there like the headless horseman! Soon my pretty, hopefully soon. ( Still have tons to do before she will hit the road again.Last edited by DoomBuggy; 02-29-2020, 1:58 PM.Comment
-
Comment
-
I am sure this stuff is flammable at some point, but the concentrations are pretty low with small parts like this. A sealed motor fan would be optimal. I will be cracking the overhead as I apply each coat, which is what I did last time. But you are right, this fan is not the best way to do this.
When I put this together I took my spray gun and made sure I could get around the top on the piece. If this works out I plan to use it for spraying guitar bodies ( more on that much later on. ). I figure you could get gas tanks and oil tanks in this one, but not fenders or frames . As I only plan to repaint the sides I am hopeful it will work out. If not we will all learn together ;-).Comment
-
Correct, the stand allows me to move it around easily. I used a turntable under the stands when I originally did it, but since this piece is so light I will just spin it as I spray it.
If I was laying the whole thing in a heavy metallic or a real candy I would want to move around rather then having start and stop as I move the piece. When using a heavy metallic you want the flake to lay in the same direction and on a real candy it is critical not to have overlap from starting and stopping. Solids and light metallics you can get away with a lot.
By the way, I appreciate all the questions and comments, that was what I was hoping for on this thread, as I said in the beginning, my way is not necessarily the right or best way and I am open to learning as well.Last edited by DoomBuggy; 03-01-2020, 8:56 AM.Comment
-
Last night I spotted a couple of holes I found. The way I work, major repairs are done with "Tiger's Hair" which is just shredded fiberglass in a gel, very tough stuff, this is followed by good Bondo, a bit softer and easier to finish, and then finally glazing putty to catch the tiny imperfections, it is very soft.
By doing it this way you are not constantly over sanding and having to reapply any particular step in the process.
After I finished that I took stock of my supplies and I need to order some Intercoat and Reducer so we will be on hold for a few days while I wait for that.
I like the Ever-Glaze putty, most auto paint stores carry it or the Bondo brand which I have also used in the past.
What I had in the cabinet was a bit past it's shelf life so it did not go on as smooth as it should have.
But no matter a couple of minutes with some 120 paper and it is smooth as a baby's bottom.
Last edited by DoomBuggy; 03-02-2020, 1:21 PM.Comment
300 mobile ad bottom forum
Collapse
Comment