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  1. #61
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    OK home stretch here.

    Once again we take our 400 grit wet paper and just lightly scuff the surface, you want to just remove any bad orange peel you might have created and scuff the entire surface to be painted.

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    When I did the original design I made sure the overall width was one inch for the boarders. This now allows me to do this a little different then the original paint job. In the original I layed a silver base coat, masked out my design and then sprayed black over that. This time I am doing it a bit different, the black is the base. Anyhow here I have decided what will be the highlighted sections.

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    Using the tape above as a guideline, I know layout what will be the boarder between the black and the color sections. I also decided to just mask off where the oil lines will be. Last time I painted around these, I should have done the same this time, but got lazy, once assembled I will see if I screwed up or not.

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    Next step is to decide where the templates will go. I played with this a lot, there were four basic choices, align with top edge, align with bottom edge, split the difference between them, or try to make it level to the ground when the tank is mounted. I eventually opted to split the difference leaning toward aligning to the top edge.

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    Last edited by DoomBuggy; 04-05-2020 at 9:51 AM.

  2. #62
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    I did the same for the other side, then masked off every area that was not be be painted silver or root beer. BTW, the orange tape is 3M pin striping tape. It comes in various widths and can be had on eBay for a decent price. I have rolls of everything from 3/4" down to 1/8". Don't scrimp here. I once made the mistake of buying some cheap Chinese crap and it lifted in the middle of the paint job. NEVER again!

    TO get the stripes where I wanted them I pulled back a little tape on the back and matched them up.

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    Now comes the fun, as I did on the sample piece I first misted the stencil area, I needed a little silver in there to make the darker areas pop against the black. Then, still using the airbrush, I filled in the top and bottom areas. I probably should have used the touch-up gun or even the DeVilbis but I knew I needed the airbrush for the highlighting. Anyhow, once I had a couple of coats on those areas, I started highlighting the stencil to give the "weathered" effect I wanted.

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    I let that set for about an hour and then added the pin striping to the top and bottom, these will be the two silver stripes.

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    Next I loaded up the DeVilbis with some Intercoat that had a bit of Root Beer mixed into it. In this case I used roughly 1 tablespoon of concentrate to about 1 cup of mixed Intercoat. I sprayed a couple of light coats until I felt the top and bottom strip matched what was on the fenders. I let that sit for 30 minutes, then pulled all the tape from the sides.

    I let this sit for an hour, took a little 400 wet paper and LIGHTLY touched a couple of spots where the tape pulled the paint. Wiped the whole thing down with the post sanding cleaner and then mixed up the final clear. This stuff is catalyzed like the primer so clean up afterwards is really important, pull the guns all the way down and take your time.
    Last edited by DoomBuggy; 04-05-2020 at 9:53 AM.

  3. #63
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    Well that is about it, here is the finished product. I will let them cure for a week or two and then I will do a few pages on buffing them out.

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    Last edited by DoomBuggy; 04-05-2020 at 9:53 AM.

  4. #64
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    Looks like you nailed it this time!

  5. #65
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    Quote Originally Posted by DoomBuggy View Post
    DING DING DING, first guy gets it, an old 45 adapter.
    Sweet, do I win a new bike?

  6. #66
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hoghead View Post
    Looks like you nailed it this time!
    Thanks man, I like the way it turned out and at this point can't wait to start putting her back together.

    Hatchet, you won my unending admiration, how's that, lol.

  7. #67
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    Quote Originally Posted by DoomBuggy View Post
    Thanks man, I like the way it turned out and at this point can't wait to start putting her back together.
    I remember how back 40 plus years ago, you did everything you could to turn out a sanitary ride on little money. Sneaking parts thru the local car plant's chrome baths (we polished them at home) , and getting a nose full of colored boogers spraying paint with home made rigs (paint gun borrowed from the same auto plant) . No fake patina, no leaving it in primer, you finished it as best you could. Rat look impressed no-one back then, remember acrylustation, cobwebs, lace and fishscale paint jobs? I do.

  8. #68
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    Yes that was the way I was brought up. And being here in the Windy City you tore it down every winter and came up with a new paint job to try and blow your buds away. I tried to do as many of the old techniques as I could remember on this bike and a few new ones based on new tech.

    One big difference is that lacquer was CHEAP, the outlay for these new paints can get insane really quick, that is why there are really only two colors, black and silver, and then the concentrate for the Root Beer. The bottle I bought of that will last a life time, lol.

  9. #69
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    Definitely killer doom I hate that I havent been tuned in as much but work is killing me.

  10. #70
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    No problem brother, hope you got some ideas out of it, thanks for getting me going!

  11. #71
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    Quote Originally Posted by DoomBuggy View Post
    Yes that was the way I was brought up. And being here in the Windy City you tore it down every winter and came up with a new paint job to try and blow your buds away. I tried to do as many of the old techniques as I could remember on this bike and a few new ones based on new tech.

    One big difference is that lacquer was CHEAP, the outlay for these new paints can get insane really quick, that is why there are really only two colors, black and silver, and then the concentrate for the Root Beer. The bottle I bought of that will last a life time, lol.
    Oh yes- lacquer was cheap-and so easy to rub down to a mirror shine. Learnt fast that prep was 80% of the paint game too.
    40 years ago I bought an unpainted basket case with several unopened cans of metalflake product, to produce a candy apple red finish. Didn't use it, but it soon found a home! Thanks for the thread, I am considering having another go when this Covid shit is over!

  12. #72
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    I shared the pics with a few buds around here and they are already asking if I am interested in doing work on their bikes. Hell once I retire I might even think about doing some work, AFTER I spend some time enjoying the freedom, lol.

    ( Plus I have to get this house ready to sell and find a new place. All of a sudden the missus is thinking southern Wisconsin could be the answer )

  13. #73
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    Quote Originally Posted by DoomBuggy View Post
    I shared the pics with a few buds around here and they are already asking if I am interested in doing work on their bikes. Hell once I retire I might even think about doing some work, AFTER I spend some time enjoying the freedom, lol.

    ( Plus I have to get this house ready to sell and find a new place. All of a sudden the missus is thinking southern Wisconsin could be the answer )
    Southern Wisconsin? I thought you were looking to escape the cold? I know there are beautiful parts of W.I. tho' . Look out man, she'll change her mind and look to the upper peninsula of Michigan next-you'll become a Yooper!

    Cool if your buds want paint tho'- a skill to barter..

  14. #74
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hoghead View Post
    Southern Wisconsin? I thought you were looking to escape the cold? I know there are beautiful parts of W.I. tho' . Look out man, she'll change her mind and look to the upper peninsula of Michigan next-you'll become a Yooper!

    Cool if your buds want paint tho'- a skill to barter..
    My grandson is 10 yo and she wants to stay around here for a few more years at least. I stopped trying to make sense out of it years ago.

  15. #75
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    Quote Originally Posted by DoomBuggy View Post
    My grandson is 10 yo and she wants to stay around here for a few more years at least. I stopped trying to make sense out of it years ago.
    Ha ha, I hear you. My wife wanted to move to all sorts of places, in the end she moved , I stayed put...and we haven't spoken for 15 years! I understand the pull of grandchildren, tho, my great nephews are on MX bikes at 6 and 8 y.o. respectively, and on their way to being fully fledged biker scum. My GF loves them too.

    Looks like you may have acquired a new skill to keep you occupied!

  16. #76
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    OK time to finish this up.

    Perhaps one of the hardest parts of painting is getting that glass like finish once you've laid your paint down. My techniques are a combination of basic mechanics and a lot of feel!

    If this was a one color paint job it would be easy, you would just need a medium coat of clear, which you would then lightly sand just to remove any orange peel, gnats, or garage dust and then buff out. However here we have multiple layers of paint to deal with and a lot of detail work to boot.

    The techniques I use will work with either, there is just a lot more finesse when you have all these layers.

    So to start with what I did was lay a tack coat and then two medium to heavy coats of the clear. This is one of the areas where a catalyzed paint comes in handy, as it is a chemical cure rather that an evaporative cure you can go a bit heavier while still knowing it will dry evenly.

    TO do this job I will use several clean rags, several grits of sandpaper, 800, 1000, 1500, and 2000 to be exact. My big buffer stays in the case and this little Harbor Freight unit comes out. I will also use two grades of cutting material, one is a heavy cut the other is a fine finishing cut.

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    Because we did light sands between each coat of paint and because a catalyzed clear tends to "lay out" when curing, there is absolutely minimal orange peel so sanding should go fast. To start I take the 800 grit and rip off a 2" x 4" square, the work we will do is all with our fingers. I soak that in water as I get my towels and such ready.

    Once I am set up I lightly go over the whole area, I am just looking to dull the finish a little bit, this will server as a guide to where more work needs to go. As I move from the side tot he front, to the other side I make sure to dry off the area I worked on. This allows one to see the low spots. And low and behold there is a small run on the front.

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    I will work a bit more with the 800 going VERY lightly and keep LOTS of water on the area I am working on.

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    Generally speaking once I scuff the whole project I then work on small areas at a time.

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    Last edited by DoomBuggy; 04-13-2020 at 12:55 PM.

  17. #77
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    What I am trying to do is feel the surface below where I am sanding, I want to feel the ridge where one color meets the other so I know I am still cutting into clear and not color. IF YOU GO TO FAR you are repainting the tank, period.

    After a few minutes I have knocked down any heavy spots and that run now looks like this. As a note, on runs I used one finger and lightly do a circular motion right on the nub, your wife will appreciate the practice you are getting! The whole tank should look like this, the flat areas are uniformly dull and there are a lot of shiny areas where there the colors meet.

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    It is now time to change over to the 1000 grit. This is the last of the heavy cutting papers, be sure to pre-soak your pieces. BTW, it took 4 pieces of the 800 to do the entire tank. So now using the same technique I work on the areas where we have shiny spots. I do not expect to get all of the out, but you should get 80-90% of the area dull. Notice how there is very little of the run left and the design area is getting more even.

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    So far I have a total of about 15 minutes of time into this. At this point I switch over to the 1500 grit, I am not expecting this to take much material off and I go evenly across the whole tank. LOTS of water here, you don't want a little goober to scratch the surface. So again I will want to feel the tank underneath my fingers and just sand long enough that I don't feel the paper pulling against anything.

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    As a final touch I break out a couple of piece of the 2000 and again just lightly touch the whole tank keeping that circular motion going and keeping it really wet. ( She said ).

    As you can see there are still a few glossy spots in the design, I felt I had gone as far as I could and had two choices here. If this had been a customers bike I would have shot another coat of clear back after the 1000 grit, but I know that only a couple of people will know that I cheated here.

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  18. #78
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    There are three pads in the picture above, heavy, medium, and fine. I load up the heavy with the Diamond Cut compound, what I do is squeeze some lines around the pad, then take a finger and rub it in until there is a light even coat across the entire pad. It seems to throw less off. On the little buffer I set the speed to 3 and I apply a light pressure. I am not kidding when I say it takes less then 5 minutes to go across the entire tank. If I see an even, semi-gloss finish then I can change pads to the medium pad and move to the fine-cut, otherwise I will add a little more compound and make another pass.

    With the Fine-Cut I use even less pressure, seriously I am moving it slowly across the surface just pressing hard enough to feel the pull of the machine. Once again, because of all the prep we have done this step only takes a few minutes. Once that is done I put some good old Johnson's paste wax on the fine pad and take the time to get an even coat on there. I like the Johnson's as I also use it on all the slides for my woodworking tools, lol.

    Once that sets to a nice haze I get a clean 100% cotton towel with the seams cut off and polish it all up. Here is the final project out in the sunlight.

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    And with that I open this up for any questions.

  19. #79
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    Quote Originally Posted by DoomBuggy View Post

    And with that I open this up for any questions.
    Yep. Can you do my Pan next? the girlfriend loves the art deco logo, she's impressed with how it got it's metallic look.

  20. #80
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    Sure reach out to me after July 1st,

    You design it, I can paint it, lol

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