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  1. #21

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    Quote Originally Posted by Tattooo View Post
    What ever you think is best................
    Ultimately my friend's decision, he'll be the one either paying to sort out the death trap he has now or buying another frame. I'll just provide the means of retaining his current VIN if need-be.

  2. #22
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    Interesting! How deep can that laser cut and what do the numbers look like? Make/model? I have a bro in the firearms business who may need to do many serial numbers if he gets a contract.

  3. #23

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    nah i wasnt insulted by that i get buying shit off craiglist can iffy. ive already come to realize that this is gonna take longer thatn i initioally hoped if i want to do it right. gonna take the time to make sure everything is straight. im back at school now practicing my tig welds on pipe. hopefully i could get my bike trailered upstate with all the parts. thinking ab renting a trailer and having my dad take it up in his suv but everything seems pretty expensive.

  4. #24

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    Quote Originally Posted by farmall View Post
    Interesting! How deep can that laser cut and what do the numbers look like? Make/model? I have a bro in the firearms business who may need to do many serial numbers if he gets a contract.
    It's a 30w CO2 laser we're currently upgrading to 80w. For etching directly into steel, you'd need a fiber laser. Harley VINs nowadays are punched into the powder coat for the most part. You can kinda make out the VIN after sand blasting, but it's thin and shallow. Our laser can burn an exact duplicate of the imperfect punched stock VIN off nothing more than a quick cell phone pic. It goes without saying, we only offer this service if proof of legal ownership is established for both frames. Pinwall Cycles sells clean, used frames legally dismantled and legally sold with bill-of-sale. Harley themselves used to offer (probably still does) to punch a replacement frame with your current VIN for accident repair, so there's nothing terribly unique about what we're doing.

  5. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by BrokeAss View Post
    It's a 30w CO2 laser we're currently upgrading to 80w. For etching directly into steel, you'd need a fiber laser. Harley VINs nowadays are punched into the powder coat for the most part. You can kinda make out the VIN after sand blasting, but it's thin and shallow. Our laser can burn an exact duplicate of the imperfect punched stock VIN off nothing more than a quick cell phone pic. It goes without saying, we only offer this service if proof of legal ownership is established for both frames. Pinwall Cycles sells clean, used frames legally dismantled and legally sold with bill-of-sale. Harley themselves used to offer (probably still does) to punch a replacement frame with your current VIN for accident repair, so there's nothing terribly unique about what we're doing.
    Like farm asked..... Post a pic of something you have done so we can see how close it is to original stamped numbers............ It sounds interesting......... Thanks

    And NO Harley doesn't sell number stamps to the public and hasn't for MANY years............... If ever........... They were ONLY sold to dealers..............
    Last edited by Tattooo; 01-21-2020 at 6:39 PM.

  6. #26

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    Quote Originally Posted by Tattooo View Post
    Like farm asked..... Post a pic of something you have done so we can see how close it is to original stamped numbers............ It sounds interesting......... Thanks

    And NO Harley doesn't sell number stamps to the public and hasn't for MANY years............... If ever........... They were ONLY sold to dealers..............
    I'll get a pic tomorrow.

    No, I know Harley didn't sell them to the public, I mean they'd stamp a new frame with an existing VIN and ship it to a dealer who was repairing a crashed bike. That's all I meant.

  7. #27
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    Why your bristles up, Tattooo?

  8. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by hillcat View Post
    Why your bristles up, Tattooo?
    Nope......... Yours??????????

  9. #29

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    Quote Originally Posted by Tattooo View Post
    Post a pic of something you have done so we can see how close it is to original stamped numbers............ It sounds interesting......... Thanks
    Sporty cafe project in my shop presently. VIN was all but removed by blasting, we burned it back in with the laser. Numbers obscured for privacy:

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  10. #30
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    Looks great! Should also be excellent for restoring corroded numbers.

    For those into stamping: https://www.knuckleworks.com/khphshs.html

  11. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by BrokeAss View Post
    Sporty cafe project in my shop presently. VIN was all but removed by blasting, we burned it back in with the laser. Numbers obscured for privacy:

    Click image for larger version. 

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    I agree they look very nice..... Once painted they might look better............

    I think you should have covered some of the numbers that was a great move....... I was hoping you would............

    I'm curious how they would look on a 70s bike????? That's what we are discussing.............

    Thanks for the pics......
    Last edited by Tattooo; 01-22-2020 at 7:46 PM.

  12. #32

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    Quote Originally Posted by Tattooo View Post
    I'm curious how they would look on a 70s bike????? That's what we are discussing
    All we do is snap a pic of the existing VIN and convert the image to an ".SVG" file for the laser, so if the 70s VINs are different font etc...it won't matter, it's an exact duplicate. This one here is a little "chunky" in my opinion, my brother could have tightened up the letters a bit more and made them a bit thinner, but that's the powder coat you see there, not bare metal, so what you see is what you get, no paint going on over it. The color is "Starnite Silver".

  13. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by BrokeAss View Post
    All we do is snap a pic of the existing VIN and convert the image to an ".SVG" file for the laser, so if the 70s VINs are different font etc...it won't matter, it's an exact duplicate.
    The difference is the early numbers are stamped....... Those numbers look digital...... Like they should.......

    But I haven't seen what the 70s numbers look like so they might look just fine....

  14. #34

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    Update: my dad and brother are gonna be trailering my bike and all its parts upstate today and ill be bringing it into my welding shop at school and starting on it this week. hoping to have the engine pulled and the hardtail section welded on by the end of the week. ill be ordering some rubber mounts for the oil tank and a fender and a mounting bracket and hoping to tack that all up by the end of the week after if i have the time in class and have it pretty much a roller. probably gonna weld a battery box outta angle or something eventually. im hoping to have the bike chopped, bored out and in riding condition by early april before my birthday and spring weather.

  15. #35
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    Another long islander !
    Good luck , maybe I'll see you out there one day. I'm a Suffolk county guy . Ride with a few friends that all have chops. Ages vary from mid -twenties to me , the old man at 55.

  16. #36

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    Yeah im nassau county but im always riding all over the island when im not in school. im always down to ride with new people. ive never ridden a rigid so im interested to see how much the long island roads kick my ass but im not nervous. ill set it up so its comfortable with mids and some forward pegs and a good seat. lookin at the le pera sig II bc i like the look and from what ive read, a seat with good back support like that or a king and queen is better than a thin sprung seat. i will definately be putting a good amount of miles on this build and dont intend for it to be a barhopper so i want to be as comfortable as a solid mount rigid bike could be.

  17. #37

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    Got to work on my bike today in class finally. Got the motor pulled. I still have the wiring harness on and it is wired to the turn signs and the brake like through a hole in the bottom plastic piece of the fender. I'm not going to be using this brake light but will keep the signals. Should I snip the wires for the tail light and turn signals to get it out of the hole so I can remove the rear fender and solder them when I rewire a new taillight in? Or is there a better way of getting those wires out. I'll post a pic of what I mean below.

  18. #38

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ID:	100405 so these are the tail light and turn signal wires. Like I had said previously I'm not the best with electrical. I'm not keeping the fender or the tail light but will keep the signals on the plate mount. Just trying to remove the harness right now so I can get to cutting and welding but looking for advice on removing those wires to get off the fender

  19. #39

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    Well I decided to go ahead and cut the wires for the brake light and turn signals today. Marked off what goes where so I'll remember when I reconnect them. Also cut the frame for the hardtail and cleaned up the burs and made it square. Seems like I did a good job with the cuts and the hardtail fits up pretty good if I give it a few taps w a rubber mallet. Anyone have any advice on the best way to bolt the engine into the kit? Should I slide the slugs in then put the engine in or bolt up part of the engine and slide in the other half after? Or should I lay it on its side. Anyway hoping to have the welding for the hardtail done by the end of this week and I just ordered a fender and mounts for my oil tank. Crazy I've been wanting to build a chopper before I even had a bike nd now its finally coming together. Anyway, here's a pic of what I got so far
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