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95 is already 25 years old, which is wild to think about. I’ve always had great luck with properly tuned CV carb, single fire ignition, and decent exhaust on every EVO I’ve owned. Most bullet proof set up you may find. I have a 95 sporty now and hopefully never have to get rid of it. Good luck with your search!
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GOD I'M OLD!
I look at anything newer then 1975 as modern, sigh............Comment
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There are plenty of reasonable FXRs but nobody wants to drive to the Southeast to save money, and unless you actually USE the cornering ability that's not really relevant. FXRs are nice cruisers and I've much love for mine, but if I wanted to go seriously fast in other than a straight line I'd buy a Jap bike. Even moderate quickness costs more than a clean complete running rice rocket that starts life as a superior performer. Heavy cruisers ain't road racers. Even somewhat serious FXRs require shitcanning basically everything but the frame and whatever seat/bodywork one wishes to keep. (I might build another one with my leftover pile...)
Dyna handling mods are plentiful too and easy to install. There's lots to like about Dynas. The posers want Softails so Dynas are usefully neglected like FXRs used to be, and Dynas lack the ugly side cover arrangement necessitated by the more rigid FXR frame. At least one 33er installed a round tube backbone on his Dyna for chopulence and because of the Dyna neck design it looks good. They ride a bit better than FXR too.
Dynas have the oil tank beneath the gearbox like every HD should have because it eliminates dry sumping and lowers CG.Comment
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Thanks for the further replies. I’m all but ready to buy this 95 FXDL I reckon.
Side question, what’s the deal with the T-Sport? Is it a worthy alternative to a pre-twincam? There’s a 2001 for sale nearby for less than the 95. Its got the black casings which I like as its with silver tins on this one. Nice looking bike. Also stock.Comment
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For similar money I would choose the evo. When a twinkie has problems (and they all do, eventually) the repair bills are high.
JimComment
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Early Twinks have the timing chain shoe issue which most owners don't know about and due to that will go unfixed.
We had a very unhappy customer whose Twinkie puked guide shoe chunks into his oil pump. Required a total teardown and oil system flush since smartly he shut it down in time. Most Twinks work OK but I'd pass on the early ones unless I wanted to build one for some bizarre reason.Comment
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I would opt for the T-Sport personally, unless it's crazy high miles or something like that. I own a 99 FXDX (basically just a cosmetic package for that year, although I've upgraded all the suspension and braking to performance stuff over time) and I love it. Great riding bike for the city or loaded up for road trips.
The 2001 model is going to come right out of the box with quality suspension and brakes. If it still has the factory fairing and bags that's an added bonus. I've seen FXDXTs go for crazy money down here, especially unmolested, stock bikes.Comment
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It’s done 39K miles, doesn’t have the fairing but does have the bags. I do like it, and whilst I don’t usually love the club style as much as what you’d probably call classically styles Harleys, I like what Powerplant did. with that T-Sport a lot.
That said, a 96 has just come up with 13K miles but it’s 1500 cheaper than the 96. I’ve just checked the history and it’s had two front wheel bearing advisory’s saying there’s some free play in the last few years. They aren’t on the latest test certificate but the recent owner doesn’t know if that’s been fixed or not.
Are front whee bearings a known issue? 12K miles seemed a bit low for a wheel bearing to go?Comment
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Wheel bearings are not a difficult fix.Comment
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On the '95, the wheel bearings are Timkens, with a center spacer and shim pack to set end play. Easy to work on and the parts are cheap.
JimComment
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Sounds like either evo would be solid.Comment
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Tapered wheel bearings are easy to deal with. I copied the "axle on angle" tool but ya don't really need it and if you're familiar with what clearances feel like you can do fine like most old time bikers who never used an indicator. If the wheel spins freely with no side play you can feel you're normally good and I did it that way for decades just like most of the world (self included) does on 2WD truck front bearings. I built the tool because I have wheels to check that don't live on a motorcycle at the moment.
Conley is a natural trainer:
If not sure, make a tool. You can use quality allthread/washers/nuts instead of an axle so long as your tool behaves like an axle. You can also clamp your front axle in a vise since any scratches will be hidden by the fork slider. If your rear axle is unplated you can clamp your (well, the axle's) nut in a vise.Comment
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Bought the '95! Bone stock, other than some new ignition leads. Really pleased.
I'm not going to go wild with changes as I like the lines/styling, but looking at seats, am I right in thinking the 95 is a different frame to the 96-98?
I wanted to put a slightly slimmer K&Q seat on it, but looking at off the shelf options like Le Pera, they're for 96>.
No big deal if not as I'll just make a seatpan and get it upholstered but saves me some work if there's a decent looking option that's good to go.Comment
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Custom upholstery and making your own pan is a way to get a superior product. Auto upholstery outfits often use heavier vinyl and if you want a gel insert you can buy one and have it installed.
You can phone Le Pera tech support to find out any differences.Comment
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