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  1. #1

    Default 87 evo hardtail build

    So I just picked this bike up. For the last couple of years Iíve wanted to find a basket case evo to hardtail and build. I found this 87 on Craigslist and bought the bike sight unseen. The kid that was selling it was saying the only thing really wrong with it was it needed a starter. I didnít know going into it that the 86-90 models were much different than 91-03 I figured Iíd snag it because it came stock chain driven. When I went to pick it up I realized that there was quite a bit more than just the starter. The right side controls were gone clutch lever was broken. Wiring was a mess. I talked him down another 300$ and ended up getting it for $900 the funds were held that I had sent him to save it for me he was kind of a jerk about it saying I agreed to $1200 but he ultimately let it go. I got it home and first thing I wanted to take care of was the controls so I ordered a pivot stud and 86 oem foot pegs. I also ordered a starter. The bike has good compression and I do believe once I get the starter installed it should fire up. Itís a mess but since Iím going to be chopping it stripping it all down and replacing almost everything Iím pretty happy with the deal and stoked to get started on it. Iíll be posting pics of of progress and parts coming Iím hoping to get it built in before May 1st so weíll see.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 03264B94-257A-441C-AC70-4B5110CE9A6C.jpeg  

  2. #2
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    Seems good for the price. I think you should get it running and ride it so you know what else may be needed before you tear it down.
    Create some history now.

  3. #3

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    That’s something I’ve been debating. The thing is I’m going to be replacing almost everything aside from motor wheels forks which I plan on doing the wheel bearing and head tube as well. So we will will. I figured while the frame was getting powder coated I’ll dig into the motor and maybe do a 1250 kit new clutch and stator. But as you know things rarely go as planned. Hardtail kit will be here tomorrow. So it’s going to be hard to not get started on that.

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    Just thinking it would be good to know if the tranny shifts right no clunking, clutch works, top end and bottom end clatter or clunk...just to have a better idea of what it is before it is in parts...

    and as always, it's best to fully build it before powder coating...seems there is that one extra bracket, tab, bung or change you want or need.
    Last edited by TriNortchopz; 01-05-2020 at 6:32 PM.

  5. #5
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    I would definitely fire it up first because after your bore kit install is NOT the time to get bit in the ass by surprises!

    You will need an outer primary gasket/seal kit and a starter gasket.
    I'd just buy a complete engine gasket and seal kit instead of going piece by piece because the full kit is cheaper than all the stuff you'll eventually need and you'll have it all in hand, but here are the part numbers for doing a starter swap:

    https://www.jamesgaskets.com/product/jgi-34955-75-k/

    I order the five packs since it's little more than one gasket plus shipping and I like spares:

    https://www.amazon.com/James-Gasket-.../dp/B009XINRX2

    The later starter is an upgrade so no loss replacing the early turd (no longer for sale new) and the early starter doesn't take the pushbutton end covers unless ya make one for it or (unlikely) someone makes one so you're good there.

    There's a lot of 4-speed info on xlforum and in Sportsterpedia.

    Keep this thread going and post pics to inspire others!

    Get or download a factory service manual and get a factory parts book. The 1986-1990 covers all four speed years.

    Example: https://www.ebay.com/itm/1986-1990-H...QAAOSwD3pd2AS7

    On reinstall I always use anti-seize on the exhaust nuts. Beats having them rust and snapping a stud!

    Since it's getting torn down anyway I'd pull the carb if it hasn't run in a long time and strip and dip then reinstall with new intake manifold seals before testing since you'll need to do it anyway.

    Have you inspected the old starter? I would still replace it but usually clueful owners fix that shit before sale since it's easy. You don't need the wiring or relay to move the solenoid. Testing takes a few minutes. I'd pull the solenoid end cover, eyeball the contacts, then use a plastic or wooden dowel etc to push the solenoid into contact (make sure the bike is in neutral!) and see if it cranks. The vast majority of starter problems are fried contacts which are easy to replace but with a new starter on way I wouldn't, you can sand the old ones if they're horrible.

    When ya have the heads off I'd do a valve job since 1986 was a very long time ago.
    Last edited by farmall; 01-05-2020 at 7:01 PM.

  6. #6

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    So I took your guys advice and decided to get it running. I had my brother come over to help out he’s way more mechanically inclined than I am(he just finished a 1966 VW bug with a 2332 cc motor on bags the whole nine). He agreed to at minimum hear it run before we go and chop it up. He went to work and got the starter in it we went to start it and click nothing. He went through the wiring and the starter wire was nearly cut in 2 so he spliced it together with electrical tape and it cranked but battery was very low head light was super dim we got a jump box and after cranking a few times it fired up. It sounded good (no bogging or back firing the idle was actually perfect). Glad to hear it run but I didn’t get a chance to ride it was getting late and the clutch cable wasn’t hooked up due the lever falling apart when I pushed the pin out to take the cable off. The new plan is to get the bike built 100% to the way I want it ride it for a weekend then strip it down get the frame, triple clamps misc parts powder coated and tins sprayed and while the motor is out do a 1250 kit get the valves done rebuild the carb( basically go through the motor and replace seals gaskets etc as well of in dechrome primary cover. my brother is 100% on board in putting in a lot of free man hours on it and if it’s half as nice as is VW is when all is done I’ll be very happy. He’s going to do all the wiring as well which I’m happy about. I got a clymer manual from amazon and ordered a ton of parts. I’ll update this when parts start coming in.

    Parts list ordered:
    Road six customs hardtail kit with battery box oil tank and axle
    Primary gasket
    Clutch cable
    Throttle cables
    Air filter
    J&P bar clamp (silver)
    3 inch rise drag bars (silver)
    Odi vans grips (gum)
    Biltwell whiskey throttle (silver)
    Biltwell midline seat
    Biltwell seat mount
    Lowbrow seat bungs
    Lowbrow 3” seat springs
    Lowbrow starter ignition switch
    Tc bros/moto iron vintage levers (chrome)
    Oem foot pegs/shifter peg from sporty parts

    Need:
    New coil
    Ignition
    Breaker
    Wiring
    Headlight and mount
    Tail light /plate frame
    Tires
    Brake rotors/pads

    I’m sure I’m missing some stuff but that’s all I can think of at the moment.

  7. #7

    Default

    so this came in today. It’s the road six kit. I went with this due the fact it seemed like the easiest kit to install. I like the lines and I like the fact that it uses the factory down tube on the frame. I like the look better with the oil tank behind the down tube.
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Last edited by Cam87sporty; 01-07-2020 at 1:45 AM.

  8. #8
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    Nice, it does have good lines. I went with the TC Bro’s and Everything about was straightforward.

  9. #9

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    For me it was between the tc bros and this. I like the complete package they sell and the look a little more so I went with this one. Where about a in Sacramento are you?

  10. #10
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    Go with the 1275 kit from hammer if the funds allow. I put the 1250 in mine and should have went with the 1275. Is there something wrong with the stator?

  11. #11

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    Quote Originally Posted by metalheart28 View Post
    Go with the 1275 kit from hammer if the funds allow. I put the 1250 in mine and should have went with the 1275. Is there something wrong with the stator?

    Iíll keep that in mind. And no not that I know of. I just figured itís a 30 year old bike and if I replace the clutch and rebuild the top end of the motor might as well throw a stator in while Iím at with all new electrical. Iíd hate for the stator to go out and have to pull the clutch again again. Also apparently the 4 speeds were notorious for stators going bad.

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cam87sporty View Post
    For me it was between the tc bros and this. I like the complete package they sell and the look a little more so I went with this one. Where about a in Sacramento are you?

    I'm out in the county, by Carmichael and Citrus Heights. You?

  13. #13

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    Quote Originally Posted by Sircharlesofsacto View Post
    I'm out in the county, by Carmichael and Citrus Heights. You?
    Carmichael.

  14. #14

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    So I have a lot of the parts that I’ve ordered now. The bike runs great which I’m happy I can just worry about building the chassis right now. I’m waiting for my brother to come out tomorrow so we can chop the rear off. He also has the lift so I haven’t gotten to stripping the bike yet. I decided to throw the bars on I have a Biltwell whiskey throttle and odi vans cult grip. I think they look awesome on the bike and it’s exactly what I’m going for (European style hardtail bobber). I’ll be posting next week with progress of chopping it up and getting the hardtail done. And will also post any parts that come in. Click image for larger version. 

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  15. #15

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    So we dug into it today quite a bit. Took the bike out of drained all the oil. Pressure washed the bike and then tore it down. Chopped the back off. Mounted up the hardtail. Will be welding it up this week sometime. Also have some parts to sell off the bike now. Here’s the progress picture.

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  16. #16
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    Nice! Cool beetles also!

  17. #17

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    Frame is welded up now. Welds aren’t the prettiest ever but they’re strong. Battery box is welded up as well. Have more parts coming now. Got the black bird fuel tank from lowbrow. I’m going to be running a coil/ ignition on the top motor mount so the fuel line needed to be on the right side this fuel tank has both option and I love the look of it. This week I’m going to be mounting the seat bungs and seat mount and hopefully get the rear fender mounted so I can strip it down to the frame to send the frame out for powder coat along with the triple clamps. I have a new head light from lowbrow coming 5.75 inch chrome. A tc bros verticals plate and tail coming along with some small parts. Everything is coming along way quicker than I originally anticipated so we’re hoping to have it finished by mid March at this point. I’ll post some pics tomorrow.

  18. #18

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    Little look at it taking shape. We’re gonna finish all the fab work tomorrow and hopefully get everything out to get painted next week. Just waiting on new tires, oil lines and coil/ignition top mount and it will pretty much be done. I bought this bike on December 22nd so everything came along way faster than I anticipated. We’re going to throw oeverything on tomorrow to see the final result minus paint and tires. Hopefully everyone likes it.

  19. #19

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    Okay so all the fab work is done. Officially. I couldn’t get the rear fender quite right but I think it’s good to go now. In retrospect I probably would’ve just bought a new fender instead of cutting up the old one but hey it’s my first build and I enjoyed it. I was going to powder coat everything but after getting quotes I really don’t feel like spending 800$ to powder coat the frame and tins. So I’m going to be spraying everything instead myself and save $700. I’m in the middle of the tear down right now. I can’t wait to paint this and reassemble it into an actual motorcycle.

    Click image for larger version. 

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  20. #20
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    If it's for riding might as well spray it, but I'd get other quotes in future if ya need coating because 800 is high. Bonus for spraying is it's easy to touch up when you decide to change minor stuff.

    Alternate option, build a coating oven. I scored an electric range, removed the stove elements and top, and am fabbing a box to sit on top of that out of two old steel lockers (cheap source of prefabbed sheet metal boxes). I'll face the oven up and open the door which I'll either leave attached or remove and hang on the wall for reinstall because most of my use will be smaller parts. My gunsmithbro uses a single locker with a toaster oven mounted beneath it for powder and Cerakoting. It works great so I copied him but the box will be horizontal for obvious height reasons.

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