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  1. #1
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    Apr 2013

    Default Drill chuck for your angle grinder.

    This is an old trick but works very well. It lets you run anything you can fit in the chuck and beats buying a dedicated heavy die grinder. (I have those, too but this is handy enough to leave the chuck installed.)

    You'll need a lathe or a drill press or a steady hand. Most US angle grinder spindles have a 5/8"-11 thread. Center your drill press or lathe (or calibrated eyeball) on the existing threaded hole and drill it using a 17/32" bit. (A good way to center a drill press on a hole is chuck some rod that's a close fit for the hole, align using that, tighten your vise then raise the quill and switch the rod for a drill bit.)

    Leave ~ 1/8" of metal at the end of your hole, do not drill through to the chuck jaws or the grinder spindle will hit them. (If you fuck up you can add flat washes between chuck and spindle.)

    Tap 5/8"-11 then slap it on your grinder like any other accessory. I'm using this one to remove excess powder coat from an FXR swingarm bore I forgot to mask.

    You can use a keyless chuck too. I had this Jacobs style lying around. If you're close to something you don't want contacting the chuck you can slip some hose over it but I've never had to.

    This lets you spin flap abrasives, Rolocs etc comfortably with more torque than most pneumatic grinders since electric motors have ~full torque at zero RPM.

    For those not familiar:

    Die and angle grinders typically turn much higher RPM than comparable drill motors and their bodies are more comfortable for prolonged grinding which is why they are 90-degree and straight vs. drills which are pistol gripped. Drill motor housing design tends to wallow holes when used for internal grinding vs. die grinders (or this "die grinder" style mod).
    It's easier to apply accurate pressure on the back of an angle grinder with your palm or via the side handle. Many drills power switches don't lock on while many grinders do, which lets you use both hands anywhere on the tool.
    Drill motor ergonomics are designed to apply pressure on the drill point while grinder ergos are designed for best control of pressure on the sides and on the face of flap discs/wire brushes. They don't look different by accident. For a few minutes work the chuck can be tossed in the usual bucket for mobile work vs carrying another tool. There's also a version where a bolt that fits your drill chuck of choice is turned down to 1/4" to fit common pneumatic and electric die grinder collets so you can run different accessories besides 1/4" shank.

    Angle grinders are more common and typically less expensive than 90-degree die grinders.
    EDIT: It would also be good for high speed drilling with small bits, but I've not needed that yet. Many angle grinders turn 10,000 RPM.

    Chuck key selection guide since many people have chucks with no keys:
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Grinder_chuck1.jpeg  
    Last edited by farmall; 12-01-2019 at 8:33 AM.

  2. #2
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