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Trying to prime motor after rebuild... can't get oil to the top of the engine from the oil tank, the pump works. Is there a prime procedure? Tips? Tricks? Advice? ( throwing in a dumpster has been considered multiple times, i'm in way too deep at this point )
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Disconnect top end oil line and prime with a squirt oil can (can and oil clean, clean, clean).
Jim -
Take the plugs out and kick away............Comment
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yup this^^^.
Let us now how you make out.
Forgot to ask about your oil tank and how lines are connected...is it the original oil tank or an aftermarket one? where does the line for the rockers come from? Is there the factory restriction in the return pipe inside the tank to provide pressure to the rocker oil line?Last edited by TriNortchopz; 11-26-2019, 7:23 PM.If buildin' old school choppers was easy, anyone could do it... ain't nobody said it's gonna be easy...Comment
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The factory ran a bypass off the oil return, I dont recall the ID sizes but the return line is say #2 pencil dia on the ID, and the top end bypass is a T off that line and that line is tiny and about a 1/16th of an inch ID.
Depends on the bike. 500 units ran a stand alone T fitting while some units ran the T right on the return line pipe on the oil bag. The OIF 1971 and later frames ran a small fitting off the frame for the top end.
After market oil bags rarely have a provision for the top end oiling but the ones that do usually get it wrong and often a totally huge oil pipe T. Some crimp them (Not very precise). Webco and other companies offered a Cast oil feed that bolts on the rocker boxs and has a small pipe fitting on the back, I kind of like those, 2 styles often, one preunit style and a rougher cast fins for unit bikes.
The best setup, is get rid of the T fitting bypass altogether and run a metered feed off the pressurized side of the oil system (Off the timing cover or the pressure relief valve. Its detailed on the Tech for the BSA B50 webpage, and many people use a small amal brass carb jet, but nice thing is you can fine tune the feed, more or less.
Return line oil is overdriven so it can be sluggish, spit, sputter and aerated with lots of air in it, Not a reliable way to feed the top end, plus its the dirty side, so kinda dumb. Good enough for the factory but not a great idea.
Id be more concerned about oil circulating properly on startup. When I start up a bike thats been parked or rebuilt, I open the rocker caps and feed some in with a squirt can. Then monitor oil with a pressure gauge and watch the oil return.
**IF** Oil is not returning, then there is a checklist of tests you can do, but be sure you have the oil lines on RIGHT. Many people get it wrong and destroy a motor. Another thing is the history of the motor,,, I am ASS-U-ME that you DID clean out the sludge trap right?? Please tell me you did and sparkly clean inside there?
Heres what I hope you cleaned out....Comment
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ignition timing / magneto
All good with the oil, was just paranoid expected it to build up faster
.. bike won't fire, something seems off with the ignition timing and the mag, have good spark fuel etc theres no reference mark,
one cylinder just wont get hot, bike wants to run.
any ideas? thanks.Comment
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You need to start by posting something that makes sense............. First you say the bike won't fire and something seems off........... Then you say in the same sentence only one cylinder will get hot and the bike wants to run................. Which is it, it can't be both............
You really need to sit down and tell us what the bike is actually really doing so people can help you...................Last edited by Tattooo; 11-27-2019, 3:54 PM.Comment
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