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It's hard to fuck up intake seals. At this point we need pics.
You can check seal part numbers using the Ronnie's site to compare to your year.
You can check seal part numbers using the Ronnie's site to compare to your year.
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Definitely. I will post pics soon. I’m thinking they aren’t getting a good seal because of the s&s intake. I’ll post pics in the next hourComment
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Here’s a couple pics. Went to the dealer and they gave me the stock intake seals before instead of the S&S ones (which are slightly smaller in diameter) so I’m going to try the S&S
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Hell for some reason I thought you had a Shovel............ Glad you posted a pic....... Yep get the right seals..............Comment
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Haha no I have a 2010 sportster forty eightComment
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Started it up and it ran great, then saw a little air blow out of the front intake out of the seal. It looks like the seal are getting sucked into the intake somehow. I have no idea what’s going onComment
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Took carb back off. You see how one side of it is flat? It keeps doing that. Every seal I put in keeps getting sucked in and I have no idea why. The rear one seals great.
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Did you slide the intake flanges over the ends of the manifold then slide the seals over the ends of the manifold prior to installing the manifold? The seals should be bottomed on the intake manifold surfaces, not hanging off.
It should not be possible for the seals to be sucked or blown out of position because with them on the ends of the manifold and forced against the cylinder head by the manifold intake flanges they have nowhere to go (they pucker like an anus around the tubular area of the intake manifold), but if tightening the intake flange bolts pulls them off the tube they ride on by moving the flange because the intake manifold is not seated on the heads what your pic shows could happen.
See page 1 picture 2, and the reason I cited this TC manual is the S&S Evo install manual doesn't have that particular photograph:
I'd have no problem reusing that ring since it's still soft and new.
Try this:
Without the intake flanges on the bare manifold, but with the seals on the manifold. place the manifold so both seals are against the heads. I expect they'll fit flush.
If not, post pic. If they do, remove seals, install intake flanges, then install seals, then place intake manifold and evenly seat screws by finger. Then evenly torque them in place.
Finger fuck both ports of the bare manifold so you can feel inside of the manifold/head joint to make sure no seal i hanging in space inside the manifold. Look over the outside using a bright light.
Shane Conley videos are typically excellent as he's an effective instructor:
Then finish installing carb. Do so carefully to avoid moving the intake manifold because the carb backing plate supports the carb while the intake is just plumbing.
BTW if you never want to do this shit again, track down a solid Ram Jett intake manifold (they are no longer made but turn up at swap meets and Ebay) for a Sportster which are stamped S on top (unless someone drilled through it to install a VOES fitting). No more seals, just two simple flange gaskets you can cut from common gray gasket paper.. They would be slow to install on the assembly line (why HD never made one) and less convenient to make in stroker versions (why S&S never made one) and take a few more minutes to bolt on (which is why they went out of production), but stock intakes, all of them, and S&S intakes (which use the Harley design for cost and speedy assembly reasons) are shit by comparison. You'll likely have to narrow some socket head screws on a grinder to clear the narrow side casting but once installed they require no carb brace and can stay in place for decades like the one on my '88 FXR I installed when the bike was new. (Stock intake went into the fucking dumpster.)
They not only don't need nor do I use a carb brace (even with my Super B hanging off them), I've lifted my engine with a soft sling around the manifold! Do that with any other HD intake.
My other FXR has one too and if my S&S ever gives trouble I'll make one by machining some aluminum flanges and welding them to an S&S intake. Piss on all those seals and may their original designer be choked to death with his own severed genitals. (But I'm not bitter.)Attached FilesLast edited by farmall; 10-26-2019, 6:44 PM.Comment
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My bike is back up and running good now! Thanks for all the help guys. It was the problematic intake seal the whole time. So buying a new battery, requiring my bike, and getting new crank sensor was just wasted money but probably needed to be done anyway. I’ve changed the seals on this bike a couple times before and never had issues with it not sealing like that. They don’t make carb support brackets for my year of sportster so it’s more of a process and trickier to do to make sure everything is aligned. Anyway. Thanks for all the help guys!Comment
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Never mind I spoke too soon. Front cylinder went out again and the seal is doing the same shit.Comment
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When I fire it up right after putting the carb back on, it will run perfectly but after I shut it off for a couple minutes and start it back up, that’s when it gets fucked up again. That front seal just can’t cooperateComment
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I just do not get this issue with the intake seals. They are pretty foolproof, farmall's invective notwithstanding. You MUST have an extremely ill-fitting manifold, and you need to address that problem. As said previously, seals cannot get "sucked in" anywhere with that design, unless one of the parts is bad, i e., the manifold.
The manifold should fit flush with each head, all the way around the circumference of the manifold spigots, at the same time the inside should be concentric with the ID of the ports. You can have a slight clearance, maybe ten or fifteen thousandths on each side, but it should be uniform around the spigot. If your manifold doesn't fit like that, and I suspect it doesn't, you need a different manifold.
JimComment
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Make a brace if you have to because otherwise that manifold WILL back off sooner or later. It is not designed for use without a carb brace! Even if there is another issue it will require a carb brace but since it ran before the seal slid out of position it's probably close.
16361-07 Bracket, Throttle Body #4 in http://partsfinder.onlinemicrofiche....ION%20ASSEMBLY bolts right where older backing plates were mounted and supports the original throttle body so it could certainly be adapted for use as an air filter backing plate support therefore carb brace.
Here's an Ebay pic. Used is fine since it's just a steel strap.
Picture trying to hold a turd in midair with your asshole while jogging. Same deal with more aluminum and less turd. You need a brace. Cease trying to fuck about without one. It will only end in tears. You tried without. It failed as expected. Now do differently. That it even worked briefly is kind of impressive.
Better yet, get a Ram Jett and end the problem. I've never met anyone who had that much trouble with those seals but they do suck because they support nothing.
Pic shows the difference between big twin and Sporty Ram Jetts. Send your seller that photo to confirm if any doubt or a link to this thread. Open pic in one browser tab while hunting intakes because Ebay seller descriptions are often wrong and it's hard to find info on the alphanumeric stamps except the common ones. After a while (don't hesitate to zoom pics) you can tell them at a glance.
EDIT:
Show us which air cleaner housing backing plate you are using.
The stock brackets are listed at $5.49 new per Ronnies which is cheaper than most hardware store strap!Attached FilesLast edited by farmall; 10-26-2019, 8:41 PM.Comment
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