KZ 900 what to look for

[shank1kole]

Ha Ha hell yeah!Im actually going to use 59 caddy repros with orange on top and red bottom.The 59s are bullet shaped and are 3 inches wide and 5 inches long so rockets yes!I have 3/4 of surface extra on the mold but will be more after glass, etc. and here is the final shape with paint on it. it looks great but will be a LOT of work to finish. I will learn to flip my phone cause these do crazy things(I'm 40 but 78 computer wise).

[Nanonevol]

Kool! Needed a better look at these.

[farmall]

Looks good and the process is interesting too.

[shank1kole]

Glass is down but it will be a few more days before the rest are laid.

[hillcat]

So the whole fiberglass body ends up being a little bigger than the mold? Like by how much approx.?
Will there be enough weight on that tiny front tire contact patch to steer?
I think a narrow front fairing with tall dark windscreen might look cool especially with your skills.

[shank1kole]

The body will probably be 1/2 thick on top of the mold.This being a one off, I'm making the form, laying over then removing the inside buck or form.Then adding reinforcements inside if needed. I will play around with some front pieces for sure.The front tire has good down force now (over 100 lbs) but after the body gets mounted all will be checked out The main thing is The wife better stay small or we are gonna wheelie everywhere.The body is about 50 lbs now and will probably end up near 150lbs.Making a plate for the swingarm to mount wheelie bars on.

[shank1kole]

Well... Hillcat got me thinking.So I got out the scale from the corner of the shop and weighed the trike at each tire.The totals kind of surprised me at 176 on the front and 253 on the rears each. We shall see after the tub is done and full load but maybe an auxiliary fuel and car battery properly place may be needed. I got pics of first coat dry, and knocked down quick with a flap disc(120 grit) before a second coat.I will do a weave instead of a mesh for the final outer shell tomorrow evening,after sanding that is.There is lots of work left but this is still fun!

[hillcat]

You just need independent rear brakes so you can steer while doing wheelie. Haha

[shank1kole]

I finished the 3rd and top coat of glass.Knocked it down and threw it back on and weighed her again.Front tire 205lbs and rears at 295lbs I'm satisfied with the way it feels sitting that its gonna work without total redo, but I know changes happen.Looks ugly and stinks some still. Hillcat check the side pic of "fin" edge on the mold it was an 1/8 inch edge at max and now is a slightly smashed garden hose. I will show this edge again to show its constant reprofile to give an idea of process total build up.

[shank1kole]

Removed the foam with a hoof pick / scraper.Filled a garbage bag with chunks.I will wash with TSP and acetone, after hitting with a wire wheel.with all the foam and added base removed except a 1/4 ply it amazingly weighs only 20 lbs.I expect to add about 30lbs back when done with final mounts but we shall see.After sanding down, the fin edge is about a sharpie edge.

[shank1kole]

Two more, also grabbed a pound of the CHROME PC with clear that Drags did on a manifold.Im thinking the whole axle would look good with it on it.

[hillcat]

I think it's gonna look great.
So does the form/buck that you use have to be disposable? I guess it would at least have to be made of multiple pieces for removal.

[shank1kole]

For one offs no reason to save.if anything make a master mold off of the finished part if you want multiples.but that gets costly in glass and resin.

[farmall]

I see a Cerakote box. I just picked up some high temp and am building a suitable oven extension for an electric oven.

Any tips for doing bike parts? I've a Thunderheader I want to coat but will of course do swatches and small parts first.

[shank1kole]

I will be building a new oven soon as well. I used an electric oven with a box added to the front with a top door for about three years till it fried the out.I used to spend more time on firearm projects.From that ceramic and powder coating experiences on ww1 and ww2 parts covered in cosmoline still have the same answer to a good finish.You must be absolutely fucking insane about cleaning the parts a bunch.I spray a lot of lacquer so I filter and re use old thinner from my spray process.I have 3 five gallon pails with about 3 gallons of thinner in them in different filth stages.. I plug with rubber stops from hardware store any openings.then rinse let hang rinse repeat.I use blast cabinet for rough stuff and a soda blaster for everything decent.I found to heat the parts up then clean again. Barrel pins hold oil for about 3 heat/ clean cycles.Air blow off then depending on what your toping find the appropriate cleaner.and start over till you feel its clean.I also like to pre heat almost anything I spray even wood projects.I have never tried the chrome so I will do a couple small parts first.and also I am thinking