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  1. #121
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    What is the bore size? The block is from a 1000 (1015cc), which has a stock bore of 70mm. Common oversize with boring only is 72mm = 1075cc, and 73mm = 1105 (getting thin walled there).

    See kits here:
    https://kzzone.com/pistons.html

    some good info on the KZ1000 (early KZ900 style vs. later J model):
    http://aperaceparts.com/tech/techkz1000.html

  2. #122
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    I have to get tools around, but using calipers(NOT CORRECT) its an out of round 70+ to 72 mm bore with wiseco 10.5:1 piston kit for "refreshing" tired KZ engines it says on their site.I am new to diving this deep, but it looks like clean it all up take the head to machine shop and ask input from them on their recommendations for the head, cross reference info.Then decide on piston/jug options cause thats more $ than time.

  3. #123
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    I do want power on the bottom end and mid range more than top end so I'm open to what you have liked/not on these 4 cyl for that combo, which seems to be the opposite nature of this design.

  4. #124
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    What are the cams you have now? They may be all you need. Lower duration will give power at lower RPM.
    Power curve can also be adjusted by different lobe centers...are the cam gears you have slotted for adjustment? Can get a set, or machine the holes to slots.

    Cam Lobe Centers Explained
    "Retarding the intake and advancing the exhaust (“spreading the centers”) decreases overlap and should result in a wider power band at the sacrifice of some top end power. This condition would be indicated by higher numerical values on both intake and exhaust lobe centers. By moving only one cam the results are less predictable, but usually it is the intake that is moved to change power characteristics since small changes here seem to have a greater effect. With twin cam engines we have the luxury of moving the cams independently..."
    https://store.schnitzracing.com/cam-...ers-explained/


    Can you pull the head apart yourself and do some preliminary diagnosis to determine what you have, such as oversize valves, if aftermarket valve springs, valve stem installed heights, valve stem measurements, type of guides and amount of wear...


    For bore/piston size, Wiseco also makes a 1045cc kit (71mm) if the bore is not that worn; your machinist could give you the bore specs using a dial gauge to accurately measure. A 1045cc would get a longer life from the existing cylinder allowing futuer bore of 1075 (72mm) while still using the same sleeves and have enough meat for adequate heat dissipation...and 1105cc could still be an option, but would require crankcase cleanup as your cases are KZ900.

    I see JE pistons includes the 1075cc kit, with 10.25;1 and a lower 8.5:1 compression:

    See both those piston kit manufacturers and others, along with other performance parts, here:
    https://www.dynoman.net/engine/pistons/index.html


    For some great technical info for the kZ1000, including:

    FAQ about KZ900 / KZ1000 Engines
    Do I need to weld the crankshaft?
    Should I have the head ported?
    Which cams should I use?
    CARBURETORS
    CYLINDER HEADS
    ....Essentially you have 3 OEM cylinder heads to work with
    Using KZ head with stock valve seats
    IS THE J HEAD THAT MUCH BETTER THAN A KZ HEAD?
    HOW DO I FIGURE OUT WHICH HEAD TO RUN?
    MYTHS
    https://www.kz-1000.net/page/2

    fewmore canms herre: https://kzzone.com/cams.html


    Can you tell if you have the Z-1 900 crank (triangular 'pork chop' flywheels), or the full-circle flywheel KZ 1000(early) crank? Can you tell if the crankpins have been welded?

    Just wondering if your machine shop is the place to take your head for recommendations...what about a performance shop that specializes in the old KZs...maybe you got one close by?

  5. #125
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    ... or re-build it as stock/reliable and gear it down a little.
    it be cheaper

  6. #126
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    I contacted Zachs cycle in Milan Mich.They were racers of the old kawasaki and were recommended from KZ site.Th milan crew said they don't mess with them anymore but they passed the number along of their machine shop in AnnArbor that has done all their work for them since racing back in the day.(It may all go to APE)before I'm through.I can make a tool to remove valves etc to break the head down further, I got some stripped phillips head bolts to deal with today on various covers.I will finish disassembly and get pics/info on cams.The MRE trans has 2.92 gear set with a billet 2nd and is undercut as well so trans is set but I can play with the servi sprocket still, smart fellas you are. I don't have enough knowledge in engines to be confident in what I ''think". I am sure at this point that I will get there, for now I read/ask/read take a step, then repeat.When the difference between new and shit is beyond the naked eye I get a wee bit nervous.I use calipers to measure wood ,but I'm not a machinists.I took night classes just to understand the machines and nomenclature and it helped me on set up for my woodworking quality, but I realized the time it takes and I don't have 20 more years to learn that trade for "fun". I will pay the right person for the right job because fuckups cost a lot more !
    I have put in way over $100,000 in crown molding that builders/homeowners have bought and tried to install.It all ends up chopped into 4 ft pieces and they flushed $200-$1000 in material. I show up and two hours later the room is trimmed and they think I'm a fucking magic man when all I did was try to make it right in 15 cuts, not 1. Understanding how its done, is far from being able to do it well even if it appears so simple. I rode bulls professional for years, its only 8 seconds to your paycheck but oh so far away and all you have to do is....
    hold tight.

  7. #127
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    Just made a PVC tool with help from a clamp, I removed the intake /exhaust valves springs etc and they are 30mm intake and 36mm exhaust (stock size from reading), but after cleaning a bit I found the exhaust side of the heads have been just smoothed(light port) and the intake side untouched with bronze guides and seats from what I can see through the carbon muck at this stage. Im going set some rags inside and soak them for a bit and clean/ soda blast tonight and then pics for the eagle eyes to point out issues. Im now feeling its more a refresh job and not go crazy on power(displacement) but gearing and tuning is the key for what I want from this.Yes ,on the adjustable cam gears TRi and thanks again for the help!

  8. #128
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    Consider finding at least one spare engine (any year) because they're not making more of them. If you can find a good running donor bike you could swap engines then build your dream motor at leisure. Ya can never have too many spare motors.

    I took night classes just to understand the machines and nomenclature and it helped me on set up for my woodworking quality, but I realized the time it takes and I don't have 20 more years to learn that trade for "fun". I will pay the right person for the right job because fuckups cost a lot more !
    If you approach each task thoughtfully you can do just about anything. Most machining precautions can be reduced to "don't take off too much metal"! Every mechanic should have quality micrometers (I prefer digital for easy viewing), indicators (dial preferred because of the way they display information), and calipers (digital preferred for easy viewing and pushbutton conversion between metric and imperial units). Make many practice measurements and use micrometer ratchet stops to make feel less important. As with wood, "measure twice, cut once" but taking multiple measurements never hurts. Knowing what to want and how to buy cheap is easy to learn and having a basic knee mill is liberating for any mechanic. (I gave away my drill press because I felt degenerate using it.)

    I'm a hobby machinist and IMO the real limit is machines and tooling, not skill, because countless other machinists have done anything we might imagine doing since the 1800s. If I have a question I use forums, and videos from skilled guys like Keith Rucker (my bro went to GA for his scraping class and is rebuilding his Bridgeport to new standards), Abom and Mr Pete. Your mastery of wood gives you all the spatial concepts you'll need. There's no motorcycle or engine job I'd fear to tackle because I'd do the same think I learned in welding, practice on scrap before doing your workpiece.

  9. #129
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    I once owned a knee mill and lathe, quickly realized they were junk but I used them on rougher tolerance WW2 kit guns to demill and build semi versions(ALL big gov approved for you nervous Nancys).I however then really transitioned my shop to woodworking full time and double the size, sold the gigantic steel beasts to make room.I plan on an office addition in 2 years and putting a small machining room for my tool repairs with a decent lathe/mill attachment but thats 2 years away and this thing is rolling in the spring damnit! I totally agree another clean engine will be purchased for turbo dreams one day/or backup. also broke stuck ass bolts are going to take up the evening.. woof. I am still geeked on this and aint losing no steam though.

  10. #130
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    pre clean
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails IMG_0589.jpg   IMG_0588.jpg   IMG_0568.jpg  

  11. #131
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    The honing crosshatch in the cylinders looks like the rings weren't even seated yet. Those scratches could be from the ring ends - are they deep at all? Might just need a micro-hone and a set of rings - need to get the cylinders accurately measured with a bore gauge to check for wear or proper machining from the last job.
    How do the pistons look? Properly measure the size, including ring grooves and ring side clearance, then calculate piston/cylinder clearance to see if in spec. Look closely for any cracks in the head between the seats and sparkplug hole. Measure valves and check fit in guides. Check bearing clearance for the cams as they are in plain bearings. How do the cams look and measure - any numbers to identify the grind? Your rebuild is looking like a cleanup and refresh.

  12. #132
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    Im getting some accurate measurements this weekend and all is looking good on the block. It was just filled with crud oil from 45 + years of use. Its looking more like a refresh Im learning. Read up on lapping valves etc, last night and I now feel I can address the head myself(unless I need a seat cut). With the trans here already I'm looking at small part gathering for internals and then the piston/ring/bore/hone situation.Since damage looks minimal now I will keep stock valve sizes. I will work on identifying cams etc for more of the picture. Im feeling polished lowers with black jugg and head with polished covers(maybe some dremel engraving)Not the same logo obviously.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails IMG_1454.jpg  

  13. #133
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    Did you figure out if it is a 900 or 1000 crank in there?
    Just wonder as the guy put a 1000 barrel on top of the 900 cases...here is some info for the difference:
    Old Kaws Never Die - Cranks
    Click image for larger version. 

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    http://www.oldkawman.com/okndcranks.html

  14. #134
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    yes, it has the 900 crank ,not welded.I am blasting the frame and welding up panels for the next few days.I ordered some bore guages.Im looking into vapor blasting the bottom cases and polishing them. definitely glad I blasted the frame. a couple thin walled ugly spots,stress cracks.lots of chit in the oil pan,along with a decent repair to it. The 900 cases are a much different casting than the jug and heads. will get some frame pics up tonight heres is the cases and chit.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails IMG_0608.jpg   IMG_0617.jpg   IMG_0614.jpg  

  15. #135
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    Guessin' they stripped the drain plug, and instead of getting another pan, cut out damaged part, welded in another piece. Coulda just got another pan...maybe you want to keep your eyes open for one of them rare aftermarket deep pans that were around.

  16. #136
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    Plenty of stock pans on Ebay (I was bored and looked) for cheap including one NOS part but I don't know the interchange.

  17. #137
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    I was down sick for a bit. Coming back alive here.Just signed a lot more work so my time is limited so I am focussing on getting the engine components sent to APE for welding/inspecting the crank and any necessary machine work as they are (one of the)specialists for these engines.Then getting back to the frame/body.I have decided to polish the cases and head.So now its gonna be sanding wood during the day and sanding aluminum all night for A week or so then boxing them up, and its a month or so lead time on their end for head work if necessary. I have been checking the drag bike forums for a deep/custom pan.if nothing cool comes up I will eBay a stock one for sure.
    I will check into the NOS one though

  18. #138
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    The bore is a 72mm and good, just needs a rehone. The pistons measure from 7.150 on the top ,to 7.190 on the bottom.They are Wiseco pistons 10.5:1. I am looking for the piston specs for wall clearance to see if rings is all I need.Do I really need to take this to a shop to re hone? Is this a simple Harbor freight tool buy? youtube has as much misinformation as help now, woof.

  19. #139
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    400 grit sand, scotchbrite, 400 grit again then first buff to reveal all the scratches.Now its ready for sanding and true buff.It won't get perfect but I'm going for a close to chrome finish but I aint got a month to sand on this so we shall see
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails IMG_0641.jpg   IMG_0642.jpg  

  20. #140
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    one more round
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails IMG_0653.jpg   IMG_0654.jpg   IMG_0655.jpg  

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