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  1. #61
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    Thanks TRiNort and Farmall, I have lots to check into for sure.I am already looking at wheelie bars and also like the look with no tank maybe relocate fuel.I have done a fair amount of fiberglassing in jobs, military so I was thinking that for the body with some of the new fabric weaves I can make the whole rear cab under 80 lbs. My wife of 16 years is still 115 lbs so as long as I don't switch to a bigger girl and I stay 150 we are light on the tread. I plan on sliding the axle back to extend footprint about 5 inches, and read up on lowrider airbag setups.needs chain tensioner etc.The weakest link will be the servi rear end,I am looking into what strength I can add to those.I really like the different avenues of thought we get here from the aircraft/engineering side of you smart folk. Its going to be a great winter with something fun to do!I also am in the middle of carb rebuild/polish,Hopefully pics by monday ( 4 carbs means four times the fun).

  2. #62
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    The kit car and trike communities like converting automobile differential carriers to sprocket instead of a ring gear and filling the carrier with lube then covering it so the goo stays in place. Minus the ring and pinion a differential doesn't care about direction of rotation so you could use the front differential housing out of any 4x4 you like and run an IFS setup as a solid axle for simplicity. Fix the diff, fix the wheel spindles, done. CV shaft shortening is pretty basic or you can find a shop to cut and respline or do custom shafts. Choose a diff which uses axles whose center is a single width steel tube and you can shorten them like a drive shaft. I'd check with your local drive shaft specialists or online if none are available. You'd need sealed hub bearings to replace any unsealed bearings.

    You can also go more open, but I'd use the best pillar block bearings I could score if ya do it this way.
    http://www.locostbuilders.co.uk/uplo...0Chain%201.JPG
    Last edited by farmall; 12-05-2019 at 7:17 PM.

  3. #63
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    I must say these carbs have rough castings but some shine is nice.A cab sounds cool, but your right its a damn sail,and probably deadly at freeway speeds and the wind gets strong.I am making cardboard bodies today to figure out the right back end look.I can't wait to get into this motor, but first things first. I was reading up on air ride suspension and really why the hell would I pay hundreds for an airbag when a basketball is $10. I will be trying out some different options but a replaceable bag found at any walmart .I am thinking two hoops that a ball is sandwiched between with a limiting strap. We shall see.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails IMG_0334.jpg   IMG_0328.jpg  

  4. #64
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    Your vehicle weight isn't much so a couple of takeoff bagger air shocks should do nicely and you can run those while fitting them anywhere. You can paint to match the bike.

    https://www.ebay.com/itm/Harley-Davi...IAAOSwvMdceCYw

    Harley air shocks have fluid damping which a basketball does not, they have positive stops at each end, and in general beat a bulky sloppy basketball which you would have to hold captive by other means which also have to move under compression. Bagger air shock fitting holes are 1/8" NPT and NAPA auto parts stores carry 1/8" NPT Schrader valves. I run them on my FXRs because my back is trashed and they make life easier with horrible Harley rear suspension geometry.

    Remember the rear axle is UNsprung weight so you aren't trying to control it vs. a car or pickup truck amount of SPRUNG weight.


    I wouldn't use truck/car air bags on something so light. You'd still need shock absorbers because air bags have no internal damping so you'd end up doing much more work for a heavier, ugly result!

    If an air bag is hundreds you're buying it wrong or it's for a heavy duty truck. Don't buy kits, buy parts. Check Ebay for examples with photos since Ebay sellers take better pics than shown in most catalogs. BTW I considered air bags for my trucks but went with Timbren urethane springs instead many years ago because air plumbing leaks sooner or later. I fucking love Timbrens! They can't leak, they're light, and they're tough but they don't have the travel you'd need for your project in a size light enough for your project.

    The heavy rear axle and light unsprung weight mean if ride is critical you'll need to solve it with a seat or dampen the bounce with more weight above the axle but weight adds more rearward weigh bias which you don't need because it will lighten the front end.
    Last edited by farmall; 12-07-2019 at 2:52 PM.

  5. #65
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    Ok, I think now I'm leaning towards grabbing some used air shocks like Farmall suggested and fabb a rear plate to reduce the capable twist in the swingarm. and in doing so give a better mount point for the shocks. I will have to make a taller top mount as well but this rough out with some ply gives an idea.Also leaning towards an 30s racer indy car style ass end.I also lifted the rear 2 inches and it levels the carbs out.I will have to fab the whole rear before the final mounts can be done, or design some adjustment holes to lower or raise height of mount. why do my pics flip when they download?
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails IMG_0354.jpg   IMG_0356.jpg  
    Last edited by shank1kole; 12-07-2019 at 4:28 PM. Reason: pic flip

  6. #66
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    Here go
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  7. #67
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nanonevol View Post
    Here go
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    You got skills, thank you !

  8. #68
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    Don't forget a nice long (for a shallower arc of travel thus less axle deflection) link or two to keep the axle centered.

    The car guys have a shitload of four link kits for inspiration and milspec aircraft rod ends are plentiful on Ebay and elsewhere.

    Also leaning towards an 30s racer indy car style ass end
    You can buy the glass from dirt track suppliers in various sizes. I'm not familiar with the race classes that use bike engines but those exist too.
    Last edited by farmall; 12-07-2019 at 6:45 PM.

  9. #69
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    Alright I ended up doing dual mounted shocks(mono-ish) and reinforcing the swingarm.I have about 6 inches of soft travel and about 4 of hydraulic slow dampning it took about 6 mount moves before the ride felt right.I still have about 2 inches of adjustment up for leveling possible. I started the back body version 1, its aquatic manta ray inspired.Got 4 gallons of resin and bunch of cloth/mat on the way hopefully body has begun next week.Here are some teasers.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails IMG_0377.jpg   IMG_0379.jpg  

  10. #70
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    foam gun,foam sheet, four hours and a rasp !
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  11. #71
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    tail end closer
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  12. #72
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    Looks Munster-ish and that's a compliment!

  13. #73
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    I'm really digging this build. Can't wait to see it completed.

  14. #74
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    Thanks for the good words folks. Here its one step closer but I need it to be leaner and meaner still but it is close! It helped getting a coat of mud on it to see the shape more clearly.I used 20 min fast setting mud mixed thin and spread on by hand with rubber gloves 2 coats, and sand. I plan to paint it before the glass gets laid as well.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails IMG_0406.jpg   IMG_0408.jpg  

  15. #75
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    Nice job, it looks good! Now to mount the 4 rocket blasters each side on the back, and hang on!!

  16. #76
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    Ha Ha hell yeah!Im actually going to use 59 caddy repros with orange on top and red bottom.The 59s are bullet shaped and are 3 inches wide and 5 inches long so rockets yes!I have 3/4 of surface extra on the mold but will be more after glass, etc. and here is the final shape with paint on it. it looks great but will be a LOT of work to finish. I will learn to flip my phone cause these do crazy things(I'm 40 but 78 computer wise).
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails IMG_0416.jpg   IMG_0418.jpg  
    Last edited by shank1kole; 01-01-2020 at 2:45 AM. Reason: pic flip attempt

  17. #77
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    Kool! Needed a better look at these.

  18. #78
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    Looks good and the process is interesting too.

  19. #79
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    Glass is down but it will be a few more days before the rest are laid.
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  20. #80
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    So the whole fiberglass body ends up being a little bigger than the mold? Like by how much approx.?
    Will there be enough weight on that tiny front tire contact patch to steer?
    I think a narrow front fairing with tall dark windscreen might look cool especially with your skills.

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