KZ 900 what to look for

[farmall]

Plenty of stock pans on Ebay (I was bored and looked) for cheap including one NOS part but I don't know the interchange.

[shank1kole]

I was down sick for a bit. Coming back alive here.Just signed a lot more work so my time is limited so I am focussing on getting the engine components sent to APE for welding/inspecting the crank and any necessary machine work as they are (one of the)specialists for these engines.Then getting back to the frame/body.I have decided to polish the cases and head.So now its gonna be sanding wood during the day and sanding aluminum all night for A week or so then boxing them up, and its a month or so lead time on their end for head work if necessary. I have been checking the drag bike forums for a deep/custom pan.if nothing cool comes up I will eBay a stock one for sure.
I will check into the NOS one though

[shank1kole]

The bore is a 72mm and good, just needs a rehone. The pistons measure from 7.150 on the top ,to 7.190 on the bottom.They are Wiseco pistons 10.5:1. I am looking for the piston specs for wall clearance to see if rings is all I need.Do I really need to take this to a shop to re hone? Is this a simple Harbor freight tool buy? youtube has as much misinformation as help now, woof.

[shank1kole]

400 grit sand, scotchbrite, 400 grit again then first buff to reveal all the scratches.Now its ready for sanding and true buff.It won't get perfect but I'm going for a close to chrome finish but I aint got a month to sand on this so we shall see

[shank1kole]

one more round

[TriNortchopz]

Bottom of piston, at 90 to the wristpin is what you want to measure...I saw Wiseco has a specific measurement down from the oil ring groove for measuring...is your bore round and not tapered?

Do you have precise measurements, to the hundredth of a mm, or ten-thousands of an inch? guessin' your measurement above is to be 71.9mm? If so, then your clearance is 0.1mm = 0.0039"

"original Wiseco piston box and it had the clearance on it. 0.0020 in - (0.051 mm)"

"Wiseco quote a 0.0020" (0.051mm) std clearance on all their piston kits and you will be ok with that.
You can go from 0.0015" to 0.003" depending application.
Lower end for street . Higher end for racing and turbo."

"Looks like factory piston clearance is 0.039 mm to 0.070 mm" [converted = 0.0015" - 0.0028"]

https://kzrider.com/forum/2-engine/592372-1075-wiseco-piston-to-cylinder-wall-clearance

[shank1kole]

so I measured and wrote it down in mm.from my measurements I get 7.205 mm on the tops and 7.208 on the bottoms(I used a piston with rings in, to level the gauge, made 4 measurements in each of the top, middle ,and bottom).I could not get any variances more than .002mm The pistons are 7.198-7.199mm at 90 degree to the wrist pin.I had an experienced mechanic eye the scratches he said hone it,ring it and run it. so I think this is acceptable,or am I reading these numbers all wrong?

[shank1kole]

I also got damn pneumonia again.The medicine makes me shaky nervous and a bit high.I should note I used the spring loaded T shape gauges,then measured them with borrowed micrometers.

[farmall]

If you want to know for sure a dial bore gauge is the way. Snap gauges are good enough for a grocery getter but if you want to be sure just take it to a machinist (not a mechanic, they are not quite the same thing) and have him measure multiple points with a dial bore gauge.

One wonderful thing I learned from hardcore DIY is what NOT to DIY. I don't do enough engines to pay for a boring bar and unless I score a dial bore gauge at auction I can't justify buying one since I don't own the boring bar. It's easy to take your cylinder for a few minute visit to an automotive machinist. Watch the process. It's educational. (A subtle trick to ensure thorough inspection is ask the machinist to show you since most will be glad to demonstrate.) I take my work to a race engine builder but because he's a car guy I bring all the tech data (FSM, piston makers recommendations) so I know he has the info. No machinist can afford all the tech data for every engine.

Is there some (preferably logical) reason you don't want to do that?

https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/machinists-and-engine-builders-dial-bore-gage-vs-telescoping-gages.107701/

For metrology questions PM is worth a read, and everything else there is also worth a read:

https://www.practicalmachinist.com/vb/metrology/opinion-simple-telescopic-gauges-308698/

You'll sleep easier if you're picky. That project is worth the effort.

[shank1kole]

Yup, this is a Don't Do It Yourself.I am trying to do as much as possible,but I definitely am sending this out to Ape now.I really like the mechanic vs machinists comparison.I was a wreck for a couple days from shitty sleep, meds

[shank1kole]

Still sanding and smoothing out the cases.I save once used sandpaper from my commercial work for things like this.

[farmall]

While I normally don't wash my main rides, for my FXR rebuild I bought some Sharkhide per Dragstew's example and it does coat nicely. It should be a good way to protect your polished surfaces after engine reassembly. I cleaned my parts with acetone (outdoors!) and if my engine didn't (unfortunately, painted motors don't age well) have black areas being a new S&S I'd hose it off with acetone using a paint gun then Sharkhide the whole fucking thing.

I suggest coating some test parts, press on with your rebuild, and if you like the results it may help prolong the shiny.

[shank1kole]

I was looking at the spray cans of shark hide, Im hoping 2 cans will do the job.
Did you use a quart and spray gun,or the ready to go cans? It really looks like the way to go, I have been searching the pontoon forums for aluminum protection and they all say shark hide is #1. I trust Dragstews knowledge,but lots of brains out there and I try to cross reference.

[farmall]

I applied using a small cotton rag folded into a thin pad, and using a cheap 1" wide paint brush. I just hit the chrome and aluminum areas rather than spraying the whole engine (new S&S I wish was all plain aluminum since I hate paint and chrome on engines but the price was cheep) since I don't know the effect on black wrinkle paint. I brushed the bare transmission and it looks like it'll seal the casting nicely. It's not a paint and easily removable if needed. If it were cheaper I could see it as flash rust protectant for machine tooling etc that's not sticky and may suggest that use after I try it on samples. When I decided to use it my parts were assembled but if I assemble anything to be Sharkhided in future I'll coat the pieces beforehand then touch up as it will be much more convenient. I wouldn't buy the spray can since so much is lost as an aerosol, but if needed I'd thin some and airbrush it. I suggest buying the pint.

[shank1kole]

Cool Farmall thanks, I was iffy on the cans,and I got lots o spray gun options.I spent 3 hours on the tub 600 grit sanding with dawn dish soap water,rinse. repeat about 5 times. just a rough cut but I know now I will paint the jugs,oil pan,and valve/cam cover black and polish the rest.I still got a lot to go but Im like a raccoon, and I just love shiny shit!