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  1. #1

    Join Date
    Oct 2019
    Posts
    5

    Default '74 FLH 1200 Charging issues

    Greetings,
    My stock 74 FLH 1200 shovelhead is not charging. New battery, new voltage regulator (4-pin), stator checks out good by conducting workshop manual tests... Grounds are good. When I test the wire from the VR off of the battery positive terminal it reads great from 13.5 V to 15 etc.. Once connected to the battery, I cannot get a reading above 12.5V. Any advice please?
    Last edited by Dottore; 10-13-2019 at 11:47 PM.

  2. #2

    Join Date
    Dec 2017
    Posts
    2,612

    Default

    Has the new battery been fully charged before installation?
    Is the regulator properly grounded? Needs to be on a clean unpainted part of frame, or run a ground wire to a good ground. Battery has a good ground?
    Anything downstream from the battery grounded that should not be grounded?

  3. #3

    Join Date
    Oct 2019
    Posts
    5

    Default

    I grounded the VR to the horn ground above it. I'll try an unpainted frame ground. Battery is fully charged and ground connection cleaned and checked. I checked the wiring from the battery to the starter relay, solenoid, starter, ignition switch and did not notice anything. Curious, when the ignition switch is turned on (ignition setting), is the tail light supposed to turn on? Also, when switching the switch to "lights", is there supposed to be a slight stumble when the bike is running? Trying to eliminate the possible culprit. Pardon, this is my first Harley. Thank you.

  4. #4

    Join Date
    Dec 2017
    Posts
    2,612

    Default

    Got a stock wiring harness? Got a manual?
    https://www.classiccycles.org/media/...35ffffe41e.pdf

    There should not be a stumble when lights are turned on if battery is fully charged - had that when I ran batteryless on old brit bikes. The wiring diagram (link above) shows taillight wire (green) to post #6 on the switch. Use your tester to check switch connections, breakers, isolating each of the electrical circuits of the bike.

  5. #5

    Join Date
    Oct 2019
    Posts
    5

    Default

    I'll check it out and report back. Thanks.

  6. #6

    Join Date
    Dec 2018
    Posts
    1,829

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by TriNortchopz View Post
    Got a stock wiring harness? Got a manual?
    https://www.classiccycles.org/media/...35ffffe41e.pdf

    There should not be a stumble when lights are turned on if battery is fully charged - had that when I ran batteryless on old brit bikes. The wiring diagram (link above) shows taillight wire (green) to post #6 on the switch. Use your tester to check switch connections, breakers, isolating each of the electrical circuits of the bike.
    With the FL ignition switch, there is often a stumble, or an outright dead spot when switching from ignition to lights with the motor running. It is completely normal.
    As far as your charging question goes, your best bet is to replace the entire alternator, stator, rotor, and regulator, with more modern parts. If the four pin stator you have is the original, it is 45 years old, and you are lucky it lasted that long. Cycle Electric offers good alternator kits that are expensive, but high quality American made stuff. The 22 amp kit will fit your motor and be a nice upgrade from the original parts. The inner primary must be removed to replace the stator and rotor, so this is a job that is time consuming and requires some special tools. The repair manual covers it, lightly.

    Jim

  7. #7

    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Posts
    129

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by JBinNC View Post
    With the FL ignition switch, there is often a stumble, or an outright dead spot when switching from ignition to lights with the motor running. It is completely normal.
    As far as your charging question goes, your best bet is to replace the entire alternator, stator, rotor, and regulator, with more modern parts. If the four pin stator you have is the original, it is 45 years old, and you are lucky it lasted that long. Cycle Electric offers good alternator kits that are expensive, but high quality American made stuff. The 22 amp kit will fit your motor and be a nice upgrade from the original parts. The inner primary must be removed to replace the stator and rotor, so this is a job that is time consuming and requires some special tools. The repair manual covers it, lightly.

    Jim
    I agree,do it right and forget about it for a long time. I will Only use C.E stuff,best there is by far!

  8. #8

    Join Date
    Oct 2019
    Posts
    5

    Default

    Excellent idea. Thank you.

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