3" Open Primary Clutch Adjusting Problem

[Doap]

My ten year old TAUER Machine, 3" Open Primary has an adjustment problem. I have 37K, with one clutch pack change at around 30K.

I replaced the clutch fibers and steels with the manufacture recommended ALTO Red Eagles that were in it previously. I replaced them because they got a lot of oil on 'em and were slipping.

The clutch pack will not fully release unless the Clutch Adjusting screw is lightly touching the Clutch Pushrod. If I lightly seat and then back off a quarter turn as per instructions, the Clutch Lever doesn't have enough throw to release the Clutch.

The Clutch Lever has ZERO slack, and takes about 3/4 pull to release the Clutch.

I've measured stack height, and it's within spec. I also put washers under the Clutch Lever Cable, only thing this did was give me less adjustment at the Cable Adjuster.

Could my Clutch Pushrod be too short, too long? This a very long bike...I had to have the Clutch Cable manufactured to fit.

[JBinNC]

The clutch pushrod adjustment, at the pressure plate, and the cable adjustment, for hand lever travel, are two different things. The reason for the pushrod adjustment is to be sure that the release bearing has some clearance when the clutch is engaged. If the release bearing is loaded at all when the clutch is engaged, it's hard on the bearing, AND it can make your clutch slip. On the four speed HD, that adjustment is also the way you orient the release arm for proper function. The cable adjustment is done last, and it also prevents the release bearing from being loaded, by having some free travel at the hand lever. And with the newer clutches, that adjustment also allows you to set the release point for your comfort and good control.

If after doing both adjustments your clutch still drags, first check the condition of the release bearing. On some clutches your stack height has to be within an acceptable range. And of course warped steels or plates that are not flat can prevent clean release. The Alto plates should be good to go. If you are reusing the steels, you might want to check them for warpage.

Jim

[Tattooo]

I sure would be nice to know what kind of trans you have????????????????

[Doap]

Good info JB...yup, understand the adjustment concept in two parts.

I used the clutch steels from the new kit, but I had to swap out a couple of old steels to get the stack height correct. I’ll check for warped steels.

[Doap]

Tatooo - Six speed Prowler. I’ve built a couple bikes with this tranny...they done me good.

[Tattooo]

Tatooo - Six speed Prowler. I’ve built a couple bikes with this tranny...they done me good.

Yea I didn't think it was or looked like a 4 speed.......

[Sky]

Wire springs or a diaphragm? Or what?
There is a correct way to set up the spring(s) too

A wobbly clutch hub bearing can be troublesome as well

If the clutch lever had enough travel before the plate swap your lever geometry is probably fine. But I have seen fat grips limit clutch lever travel...

[Doap]

Sky - I Gots a diafraggum on this bike...my other bike has the BDL Spring set-up. Haven't noticed any wobbles in my Clutch Basket, but I am getting ready to replace the basket later this year, was gonna put in a new bearing while I'm in there.

[Doap]

Finally figured out problem after all these years.
The clutch cable where it terminates at the clutch housing was not retracting fully due to interference. Mr. Dremel to the rescue