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  1. #21
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    What Skjoll said. I'd readjust the tappets. It's common to get them too tight.

    Loose is life, tight burns valves.

  2. #22

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    Quote Originally Posted by Skjoll View Post
    What you've described sounds so much like inadequate or zero valve clearance when cold so as the motor heats up and the valve gear tightens up, the valves are prevented from closing completely until they remain open far enough that you no longer have adequate compression for the air/fuel mix to ignite.
    With shovels, the opposite happens. The cylinders grow (it's a tall motor) and the valve lash increases on solids.

    Jim

  3. #23

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    Quote Originally Posted by farmall View Post
    What Skjoll said. I'd readjust the tappets. It's common to get them too tight.

    Loose is life, tight burns valves.
    +++^^^

    Most people try to adjust the valves too tight in an attempt to make them quieter. I think that is an error.

    Jim

  4. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by JBinNC View Post
    +++^^^

    Most people try to adjust the valves too tight in an attempt to make them quieter. I think that is an error.

    Jim
    Interesting, I guess this could be what's happening. I checked my pushrods when I changed the points a couple weeks ago and everything seemed fine (not loose, but still able to spin them in my fingers) but I will check again.

  5. #25

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    Quote Originally Posted by JBinNC View Post
    With shovels, the opposite happens. The cylinders grow (it's a tall motor) and the valve lash increases on solids.

    Jim
    Do you find this to be true with just shovelheads or have you known other HD motors to behave the same way?

  6. #26
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    A lot of good advice in this thread so far...
    Are you certain your issue is heat related? Vibration is synonymous with Shovelheads

    Double checking or even adding good ground(s) has not been mentioned yet.

    Ignition switches can be finicky with heat and vibration.

    Is your carb properly insulated?



    With Shovels you've got
    Iron cylinders
    Aluminum cases, heads and rocker boxes
    Steel cam, lifters, rockers and seats
    Pushrods can be aluminum or steel
    They all expand at different rates thermally...
    The pushrod material can make a big difference as to how tight or loose the cold valve lash is set.

    So, I like to "spin check" solids with the bike warm
    Only way to know for sure

  7. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by Skjoll View Post
    Do you find this to be true with just shovelheads or have you known other HD motors to behave the same way?
    Yep...................

  8. #28
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    Sounds to me like a main breaker.

  9. #29
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    Main breaker wouldn't show a deterioration of performance.
    Just a sudden lack of spark (and lights) till it resets.
    But I have seen corrroded/damaged breakers. loose posts, lose bolts, bad crimps....

  10. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sky View Post
    Main breaker wouldn't show a deterioration of performance.
    Just a sudden lack of spark (and lights) till it resets.
    But I have seen corrroded/damaged breakers. loose posts, lose bolts, bad crimps....
    Have to disagree as I had the same exact symptoms on my full dresser about 15 years ago.lights blinking on and off , speedo going crazy , bike sputtering till it died. Wait 20 minutes, bike fired back up and go down the road fine for another 20-30 miles. Was down in Florida for bike week and wanted to ride down to the Keys. Bike started acting up so. I bailed on it. Lucky for me friends had a bus set up for bikes with tools . Kept looking at a whole bunch of shit like the O.P. . Thought. I had it figured out and tried riding it home ( N.Y. ). 30 miles later ( as had been happening all week )
    I loaded it on the bus.
    Got it back home and after chasing down wiring figuring it had to be a short . Flabbergasted I figured there was nothing else left to check I changed the main.
    Bingo.

  11. #31
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    You can temporarily bypass HD breakers by putting both eyelet connectors to the same post, but you'd better not have a short in that circuit. Breakers beat the piss out of fuses but they do get old. When I redo a harness I discard the breakers since they're cheap to replace. Ignition key switches are also disposable.

    I look for excuses to shitcan old electrical parts. It pays off.

  12. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sky View Post
    A lot of good advice in this thread so far...
    Are you certain your issue is heat related? Vibration is synonymous with Shovelheads

    Double checking or even adding good ground(s) has not been mentioned yet.

    Ignition switches can be finicky with heat and vibration.

    Is your carb properly insulated?



    With Shovels you've got
    Iron cylinders
    Aluminum cases, heads and rocker boxes
    Steel cam, lifters, rockers and seats
    Pushrods can be aluminum or steel
    They all expand at different rates thermally...
    The pushrod material can make a big difference as to how tight or loose the cold valve lash is set.

    So, I like to "spin check" solids with the bike warm
    Only way to know for sure
    Good call, I checked when the bike was cold. Will check again. Bike is at my buddy's house so I haven't been able to go over it yet. I should have mentioned that all of the wiring is stripped down and redone as simple as possible and there is no main breaker. I had a wire short out before with similar symptoms so I'm hoping this is the cause.

  13. #33
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    What substitutes for the main breaker or do you hate your own charging system? Shorts don't just melt wires...

    If it's a blade fuse (glass fuses are utter shit) that will work but ATA blade breakers are drop-in replacements. A particularly useful aspect of running fuses or breakers is easy troubleshooting by disconnecting sub-systems.

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