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  1. #61
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    Made progress last night. I installed the new push rod tube seals (top and bottom), the head gasket, and the cylinder head. Before torquing the head bolts I put the intake manifold back in place. I then torqued the head bolts to the Cometic specs and then tightened down the intake manifold bolts the best I could w/ my mini-allen. All this stuff was pretty clean and easy. No excitement to report.

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    It was still early in the evening, so I went ahead and got the rocker box bits and the new gaskets together. Again, no excitement to report. Everything is going back together using the torque specs smoothly.

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    The last bits to install are :

    - Exhaust
    - Top & Front motor mounts, VOES
    - Plugs, Ignition coil
    - Carb
    - Fuel tank

    I'm guessing it will all be back together tonight, which is a good thing as a cold snap is coming. One question, are there any break-in suggestions regarding start-up? Once it's buttoned up, I wanted to spray the entire thing down with degreaser and clean up the quarts of oil that are in every nook and cranny from the prior leaks. After, I'd like to start it to see if I fixed the leaks, but if it's better to wait until warmer weather.....I can do that too. Let me know if you have an opinion and thank you.

  2. #62
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    You can start it weather it's hot or cold out, It won't matter either way....... But you will need a fan blowing on it if your planning on running it for very long sitting still..............

    But that's the way I do it others might do it differently...........

  3. #63
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    Well, well, looky here gentlemen! It looks like a motorcycle again! And just in time, with a low temperature of 4 degrees and a wind chill between -10 and 0 in balmy Wisconsin. The propane heater only does so much in the garage in these temps.

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    It still needs a good clean and we have yet to execute the first start, but I'm excited to see it back together.

    A lions roar of thanks goes out to all that offered advice. Thank you for the help. I greatly appreciate it.

    Best,
    MJA

  4. #64
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    ^^^^^^^ Looking good!!!!!!!!^^^^^^^^^ Congrats.........

  5. #65
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    Simple, clean, tidy, good!

  6. #66
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    Just for a look ....



    What you see here is the amount of cuttings that came out of two jugs in order to bore 1/2 inch from the 883cc to 1200cc ...

    (That's a lot of shi errrrrrrr stuff !!)
    Last edited by Dragstews; 05-04-2020 at 5:50 AM.

  7. #67

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    D,

    How many passes do you use to take out that 1/2" of bore?

    Jim

  8. #68
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dragstews View Post
    What you see here is the amount of cuttings that came out of two jugs in order to bore 1/2 inch from the 883cc to 1200cc ...

    (That's a lot of shi errrrrrrr stuff !!)
    Interesting that it's still worth it to bore those jugs vs. buying a kit....unless there's some Secret Drag Sauce going on where the piston you're using doesn't come with jugs.

    In which case do tell us more!

  9. #69

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    The Chinese cylinders in those kits ain't all that great, but the shop time to do all that boring costs something as well. As you have pointed out elsewhere, Chinese parts may not be as readily available in the near future.

    Jim

  10. #70
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    Axtell say they machine their own and some very successful Sportster kits use them. I'd of course avoid mystery kits.

    https://www.nrhsperformance.com/partscylinders.shtml

  11. #71
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    I take out .030" at a wack ..

    I could take more of a bite, but taking it easy on the FWII, she's been boring for me for over 25 years now in my hands ...

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    Want to keep it going till I'm ready to take that long dirt nap .. !!
    --------------------------------------------------------------------------

    Got a set of Ron's jugs on my Turboed Buell ....

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    Those was made before the "Great Flood" of 93 wiped out his molds ...
    (He sold me the last set of the sand cast jugs he had)
    Last edited by Dragstews; 05-04-2020 at 10:27 AM.

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