First build thread... '47 Knucklehead basket case

[JBinNC]

I totally disagree,,,,,,,, This bike was built from a bunch of this and that junk parts............. I spent only 4K building it in 2008........

It's more about knowing what to do with junk parts......

Yes you can throw a bunch of money at something and it should turn out really nice but not always.....

If it runs good, then by definition it's not junk (and I like the looks of that one a lot).

BUT, knowingly putting a motor up with .015 skirt clearance IS, by definition, building junk.

Jim

[Tattooo]

BUT, knowingly putting a motor up with .015 skirt clearance IS, by definition, building junk.

Jim

We shall see what he has later today if he has the stuff to check it with accurately...... By his pic I'd bet it will need boring but we shall see....... The heads look nice, But that also will need to be taken apart to see how the valves guides look....... I wouldn't do a valve job unless it really needed one.....

[JakeF]

BUT, knowingly putting a motor up with .015 skirt clearance IS, by definition, building junk.

Jim

What is acceptable tolerance on skirt clearance? I noticed before I pulled the jugs off that there appeared to be quite a bit of difference between piston and bore size. If you look closely at this photo you can probably see it.

[JBinNC]

What is acceptable tolerance on skirt clearance? I noticed before I pulled the jugs off that there appeared to be quite a bit of difference between piston and bore size. If you look closely at this photo you can probably see it.

[ATTACH=CONFIG]97353[/ATTACH]

Don't sweat what it looks like from the top. The ring land area is smaller in diameter than the skirt.

Cast Bonalite style pistons (the ones with the steel expansion strut inside) can be fit as tight as .0015 skirt clearance in a pan or shovel. With the iron heads on the knuckle, I would think .003 would be good. In any event, your .015 clearance, if correct, is WAY out of that range.

Jim

[JBinNC]

My reprint Knuck manual calls for .001 - .002 skirt clearance for genuine HD pistons, and further states that wear in excess of another .002 requires a rebore and fitting the next oversize piston. I will tell you, with used parts, if you end up with .004 skirt clearance or so, the motor will run happily.

Jim

[Dragstews]

Well .....

Here's my two cents ...
Your building the motor back to EL specks ....

Think I would up the ante to FL specks..

[JakeF]

OK. Well that measurement was above the rings, so I'll measure the skirt itself tonight. Might be a bit late though,,,, there's a different kind of "skirt clearance" I need to check out first tonight,,, if you know what I mean....

[JakeF]

Well .....

Here's my two cents ...
Your building the motor back to EL specks ....

Think I would up the ante to FL specks..

I'm not sure what that would entail, but assuming for a moment that I would need to have it bored out anyway and new pistons, what else would it take?

[Dragstews]

To up the ante would entail:
[IMG] http://www.vtwinmfg.com/WebPics/11/11-0499a.jpg[/IMG]


New jugs that have a std bore of 3-7/16" ^^

New set of flywheels .... Could add a bit of stroke in this area ... 4-1/2" would get the cubes up to 84 inches with the 3-7/16" bore

New crank-pin that has the 41-up FL taper, good-bye to the EL stepped crank-pin.

New Fl intake manifold ..
New FL pushrods ...

That's all that will be needed to go to FL specks, all your other parts that you have will work....

[Tattooo]

Well .....

Here's my two cents ...
Your building the motor back to EL specks ....

Think I would up the ante to FL specks..

There ain't no way I would do that and I'd bet Dave would agree..........

Plus it's money that doesn't need to be spent on a 70 year old motor..... ELs are a much smother running motor

[Tattooo]

I'm not sure what that would entail, but assuming for a moment that I would need to have it bored out anyway and new pistons, what else would it take?

You have to buy EVERYTHING....... It's a waste of money...... If you go down that road buy a repop Knuck motor....

[JakeF]

I see. Maybe down the line, but realistically that's just not in my budget for this time through it. My goal for this build is to keep it simple and only spend on what's essential to get this pile of parts put together and running. I need to achieve that first. Other things can be revisited in the future

[Dragstews]

You have to buy EVERYTHING....... It's a waste of money...... If you go down that road buy a repop Knuck motor....

Not really ^^

Here's why;

A repop motor is way up there in $$$ ..
Let's add up what it would cost to stroke your EL to get it to 84 cubes, want too ??

Ok ... Here we go ...

1) The jugs ... Brand new $351.74
2) Flywheels ... You would be needing to buy a set of FL wheels anyways no diff in price for a longer stroke...
T&O gets $475 for a set .. S&S would be about the same ...
3) Crank-pin ... Jim's $101.56 will also need the FL nuts being they are much bigger than the EL nuts $28.16 ... Can reuse your EL bearing cages and rods...
4) FL pushrods these are made by Colony $55.83
5) Intake manifold $133.57 ... Includes brass seals, nuts, screws, lock washers, and gasket..
6) Pistons ... Stock FL stroke pistons are much less that stroker pistons..
Cost for the S&S strokers is $493.95

All those parts comes to a total of $1,639.81

[Tattooo]

I see. Maybe down the line, but realistically that's just not in my budget for this time through it. My goal for this build is to keep it simple and only spend on what's essential to get this pile of parts put together and running. I need to achieve that first. Other things can be revisited in the future

Now your talking........ Like Joe Namath says........ You'd be happy you did I guaran tee..........

[Tattooo]

Not really ^^

Here's why;

A repop motor is way up there in $$$ ..
Let's add up what it would cost to stroke your EL to get it to 84 cubes, want too ??

I think that we just had a thread about that....... That was a Shovel and this is a Knuck and that means it's even more expensive............Sorry