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  1. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by JakeF View Post
    I have a stone cylinder hone, but not a dingleberry hone. Is there a benefit to using a dingleberry hone instead?

    You need to measure it in the middle also......

    Which hone to use matters on what your trying to accomplish...... If your just wanting to get the shine off and cross hatch the cylinder use a dindleberry hone.....
    Last edited by Tattooo; 10-03-2019 at 8:49 AM.

  2. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by JakeF View Post
    Hoping I don't need to split the case apart, but I do have a new gasket for that in the event that is necessary.

    Do it anyway it's easy as hell....... That way you can clean the inside and reseal the case............ Now you don't want to take the flywheels apart unless you find a problem............

  3. #23
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    By the way you did say you have a manual didn't you??????????

  4. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tattooo View Post
    You need to measure it in the middle also......

    Which hone to use matters on what your trying to accomplish...... If your just wanting to get the shine off and cross hatch the cylinder use a dingleberry hone.....
    OK. Is 240 grit good for this? I'm seeing 120, 180, 240, 320, 600, and 800 available.

    Thanks for your input, by the way! Much appreciated!!

  5. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tattooo View Post
    By the way you did say you have a manual didn't you??????????
    Yes, I found a scanned PDF of the service manual. The photos didn't scan very clearly, but all the text is legible.

  6. #26
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    Ah, I remember when I got my first big project... those were the days!


    Man that is going to be awesome. Excited to see what you do. And I love it in the living room- what lamp or ottoman is cooler?

  7. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by JakeF View Post
    Yes, I found a scanned PDF of the service manual. The photos didn't scan very clearly, but all the text is legible.
    Do yourself a favor and buy several different PAPER manuals and a parts manual.......... A PDF is for cheap people that aren't really interested in working on there bike for years to come...................

  8. #28

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    For accurate measurement of the pistons and cylinder bores, a micrometer and suitable telescope gauge, or even better, a dial bore gauge set with the micrometer used, are necessary. The digital caliper pictured is good for a lot of things, but piston and cylinder fitting is not one of them.

    By your own figures, the 3.4110 piston would be plus .100, not unusual. However, with a bore of 3.4260, again your measurement, you have a .015 skirt clearance, which is WAY bigger than it should be. If your measurements prove to be accurate, just honing and reringing this motor will avail you nothing. You need to have the cylinders bored and honed for a larger piston, if one is available, or the cylinders and pistons need to be replaced.

    Don't build junk, and you won't have junk when you are done.

    Jim

  9. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by JBinNC View Post
    If your measurements prove to be accurate, just honing and reringing this motor will avail you nothing.
    Jim
    Yep that's why I said to check them accurately before you make your decision...........
    Last edited by Tattooo; 10-03-2019 at 11:22 AM.

  10. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by JBinNC View Post
    Don't build junk, and you won't have junk when you are done.

    Jim

    I totally disagree,,,,,,,, This bike was built from a bunch of this and that junk parts............. I spent only 4K building it in 2008........

    It's more about knowing what to do with junk parts......

    Yes you can throw a bunch of money at something and it should turn out really nice but not always.....
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 101_0471.jpg  
    Last edited by Tattooo; 10-03-2019 at 11:17 AM.

  11. #31

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    Quote Originally Posted by Tattooo View Post
    I totally disagree,,,,,,,, This bike was built from a bunch of this and that junk parts............. I spent only 4K building it in 2008........

    It's more about knowing what to do with junk parts......

    Yes you can throw a bunch of money at something and it should turn out really nice but not always.....
    If it runs good, then by definition it's not junk (and I like the looks of that one a lot).

    BUT, knowingly putting a motor up with .015 skirt clearance IS, by definition, building junk.

    Jim

  12. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by JBinNC View Post
    BUT, knowingly putting a motor up with .015 skirt clearance IS, by definition, building junk.

    Jim

    We shall see what he has later today if he has the stuff to check it with accurately...... By his pic I'd bet it will need boring but we shall see....... The heads look nice, But that also will need to be taken apart to see how the valves guides look....... I wouldn't do a valve job unless it really needed one.....

  13. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by JBinNC View Post
    BUT, knowingly putting a motor up with .015 skirt clearance IS, by definition, building junk.

    Jim
    What is acceptable tolerance on skirt clearance? I noticed before I pulled the jugs off that there appeared to be quite a bit of difference between piston and bore size. If you look closely at this photo you can probably see it.

    Click image for larger version. 

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  14. #34

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    Quote Originally Posted by JakeF View Post
    What is acceptable tolerance on skirt clearance? I noticed before I pulled the jugs off that there appeared to be quite a bit of difference between piston and bore size. If you look closely at this photo you can probably see it.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Don't sweat what it looks like from the top. The ring land area is smaller in diameter than the skirt.

    Cast Bonalite style pistons (the ones with the steel expansion strut inside) can be fit as tight as .0015 skirt clearance in a pan or shovel. With the iron heads on the knuckle, I would think .003 would be good. In any event, your .015 clearance, if correct, is WAY out of that range.

    Jim

  15. #35

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    My reprint Knuck manual calls for .001 - .002 skirt clearance for genuine HD pistons, and further states that wear in excess of another .002 requires a rebore and fitting the next oversize piston. I will tell you, with used parts, if you end up with .004 skirt clearance or so, the motor will run happily.

    Jim

  16. #36
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    Well .....

    Here's my two cents ...
    Your building the motor back to EL specks ....

    Think I would up the ante to FL specks..

  17. #37
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    OK. Well that measurement was above the rings, so I'll measure the skirt itself tonight. Might be a bit late though,,,, there's a different kind of "skirt clearance" I need to check out first tonight,,, if you know what I mean....

  18. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dragstews View Post
    Well .....

    Here's my two cents ...
    Your building the motor back to EL specks ....

    Think I would up the ante to FL specks..
    I'm not sure what that would entail, but assuming for a moment that I would need to have it bored out anyway and new pistons, what else would it take?

  19. #39
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    To up the ante would entail:
    [IMG] http://www.vtwinmfg.com/WebPics/11/11-0499a.jpg[/IMG]


    New jugs that have a std bore of 3-7/16" ^^

    New set of flywheels .... Could add a bit of stroke in this area ... 4-1/2" would get the cubes up to 84 inches with the 3-7/16" bore

    New crank-pin that has the 41-up FL taper, good-bye to the EL stepped crank-pin.

    New Fl intake manifold ..
    New FL pushrods ...

    That's all that will be needed to go to FL specks, all your other parts that you have will work....

  20. #40
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dragstews View Post
    Well .....

    Here's my two cents ...
    Your building the motor back to EL specks ....

    Think I would up the ante to FL specks..
    There ain't no way I would do that and I'd bet Dave would agree..........

    Plus it's money that doesn't need to be spent on a 70 year old motor..... ELs are a much smother running motor

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