evo 5 speed kicker question

[Guest]

Hi guys, i had a look at some previous posts made about this and got some decent info but just wondered if anyone could offer some advice on a particular point before i get stuck into this thing tomorrow.

So i have a kicker kit lying around my shed that i decided to finally fit as a back up to my keyswitch electric start on my 1995 evo with points ignition. No other real reason other than i got it 6 months ago and its taking up space so figured i may as well fit it.

It was from WWAG cycles but looks to be the Custom Chrome kit that requires removal of the mainshaft and countershaft bearing housing and replaced with the chunkier adaptor plate that comes in the kit. The instructions aren't great but mentions i need to remove the stock OEM plate and "press out the bearings" before re-installing them in the new plate that comes with the kit.

The instructions make it sound like you just remove the circlips holding the bearings in place and push them out. Is it that simple or would i need to use a special bearing removal tool? I have a puller that i used to replace my cam bearing.
Also, wondering if anyone who has done this previously felt that it was worth replacing the bearings while in there even though they might look ok.

Thanks in advance for any pointers

[triumphbruce]

i would use a press for the bearing.if you have them or get them why not go new
let us know how it works have looked at them for my 93.wondering about the quality

[Dragstews]

I use a Jim's tool for doing that job...
Keeps the bearing straight to the bore going in & out ....

[farmall]

An older Custom Crap kit ratchet stripped and ate my knee but I replaced that ratchet with Baker (and the gears since I bought the kit to get the ratchet). Still have the kit but didn't swap it to my upgrade bagger trans because it stuck out too far for my liking since I run mids. I wouldn't do it again since Evos come with good e-starts. (My 1988 with the pre-OSGR Hitachi went over 100,000 miles before needing work.) The Custom Chrome casting and Baker gears are still cheaper than a complete Baker kit. I also use a Baker arm since the Taiwan arm bent.

Review transmission door removal instructions in your factory shop manual. I made a door puller from some scrap aluminum plate. I didn't replace the bearings but the way they come out means pressing the inner race so replacement is preferable. I pressed mine out using an arbor press and didn't get much resistance so had no worries about bearing damage. (I've done all sorts of bearings over many years.)

BTW if you ever need more grunt like for a stroker you can bore the old trans case starter hole for the later OSGR starters. The later taper shaft trans guts and door etc also swap.

have looked at them for my 93.wondering about the quality

Lack of quality got my knee. A kicker on an OSGR bike (including 1993) is super extra pointless unless you like looking at pedals because a pushbutton end cover permits starting even if your solenoid windings were blown (which I've never seen on an OSGR) and the contacts are easily swapped. I grew up kicking but Harley finally chose to solve the problem so it's as pointless as a hand crank on a modern car. There are many better ways to spend the money on mods which will improve your riding experience.

BTW the CC kits like mine use a transmission shaft extension which is much weaker than a replacement shaft . I wasn't kind to mine and it didn't fail but my engine was stock displacement with higher compression, not a high comp big bore.

Some owners like them but if I ever want a kicker again I'll shit the money for Baker. Their parts are so nice even my jaded toolmaker machinistbros think they're sexy. Sometimes buying high end is totally worth it and after a shoulder replacement I ain't looking to fuck up my (now healed and strong) knee. No motorcycle is worth knee damage.

[Guest]

Thanks for the input guys. My manual seems to talk about going in through the primary to remove the bearing housing / end cover but the kicker install instructions just tell you to remove the bolts and take the plate off before removing the snap rings. I take it I cant just do that and pull the bearings and install a new set

[West7]

I'd save yourself the trouble unless you really feel like walking around with a limp because of shit parts.

Buy once cry once and save your knee while your at it.

[farmall]

I pulled my trap door without fuss.

Fuck yanking the clutch and inner primary without reason though fortunately your '94 has the convenient splined shaft.

What SPECIFIC Custom Chrome kit are you dealing with? Pics and pics or link to instructions would ensure we're on the same page.

[Guest]

I pulled my trap door without fuss.

Fuck yanking the clutch and inner primary without reason though fortunately your '94 has the convenient splined shaft.

What SPECIFIC Custom Chrome kit are you dealing with? Pics and pics or link to instructions would ensure we're on the same page.

Its this one here https://www.wwag.com/cgi-bin/WebObje...age=%21WW40221

I took the bolts off the bearing plate and gave it a little wiggle to see if it would come off by hand. Didn't force it incase I sent a bearing roller flying into the tranny! I decided to spend the dough and buy the special tool that pulls the door and bearings without removing the shafts. I will take some pics of the process and stick them in here once ive done it.

[Guest]

Ok so... I got the bearing door puller tool and got everything put together on that side with new bearings and circlips. Everything went together pretty straightforward.

The ball and ramp set up was a bit of a pig. The ball/ramp assembly bottom plate fits fine in the new cover and sits in its slot. The top cover fit too however once the cable end was hooked to the coupler, it became apparent that it would hit off the top of the cover and would "require clearancing" for it to get full range of movement. I took a rotary burr to it and took a little bit of meat out the cover and the assembly moved better, allowing the ball and ramp to rotate clockwise when the clutch lever was pulled in as it should.

Now..heres where things get awkward and I wonder if anyone has had this issue before. When I put the new kicker cover on and bolt it all up, the kicker works exactly as it should, returns to a straight 12 o'clock position etc. However the clutch lever will not pull in whatsoever. I ordered the extended long clutch pushrod that goes in behind the adjuster screw on the primary side. When adjusting my clutch, I can feel the adjuster screw getting pressure before backing it out as per the factory procedure etc so I know the long pushrod is reaching everything ok. Theres two possible scenarios that I can think might be causing the problem:

1) the balls are falling out the ramp grooves when I am putting the cover on, which is causing the assembly to bind up.
2) Theres a problem with the stock throwout bearing pushrod I am using. It doesn't slide as smoothly in the new mainshaft extension and seems like it could potentially get stuck in there. Theres a bit of friction. I also still have the oil slinger on it but I don't see how it could be causing any interference as the kicker is working fine? Any ideas people?

[Guest]

Il update this in case anyone else decides to fit one of these and has the same issues. So I had to remove the oil slinger off the stock clutch throwout pushrod as it wouldn't seat deep enough in the ball/ramp assembly. You can use your stock length 91+ up long pushrod but you need to use the extension that comes in the kit as well as a shorter adjuster screw. Also, for the love of god do NOT touch the clutch lever until you have set the adjuster screw and taken the slack out of the cable a bit. Otherwise the balls will more than likely fall out their grooves and the lever wont budge. Anyway, that's it finally done. Had an old lilian rose ww2 brass knuckle in my shed so put that on instead of the crappy popsicle rubber

[farmall]

Odd that the cover didn't have a groove for the stock snap ring to hold the ball ramp close enough to keep the balls from falling out like the stock or my older CC cover. Others installing a kit without a snap ring to hold the ball ramp could pack the ramp with petrolatum to hold the balls slightly more securely.


Glad ya got it sorted out.

[Guest]

Oh it did. I am well versed at removing snap rings now ha! I think to be fair it was more likely me pulling in the clutch lever and opening up the assembly without enough grease on the balls before properly snugging it down.

I also had to take a rotary burr to the roof of the inside cover to provide clearance for the cable end coupling to actually move further than 2 cm.

Im glad its finally finished, bolt on parts my a$$!!

[farmall]

Bolt-on parts require minor tools like a lathe and milling machine to attach, so I gave up and got a lathe and mill.

[Guest]

hahah. never has there been a bigger lie told in the world of motorcycles than "bolts right on"