1988 Sportster Primary Question

[tomiles]

Back at yall.

Picked up a 1988 sportster to hardtail etc.

I have a 2003 and this bike has a few different things going on so Im not sure on some things. I have a shitty clymer manual that doesn't how to remove the inspection covers on the derby and chain window. There are also two nuts that are different from my other bike and i am curious as to what they are for. I have arrows pointing to my questions



Not sure if the image is going to load, but basically instead of having the inspection windows bolt on (2003 has the 4 for the derby and 2 for the chain inspection), there is just a window plug. Not sure if they are threaded on, or if it pops off with a screw driver.

I also have a breather port on my cam side of the oil filter. My 2003 doesnt have this, wondering if that is normal of if previous owner was up to something.






For reference. Here is the difference when compared to the 2003

[BlackCloudSalvage]

Everything is as it should be. The inspection windows are threaded. You have to use something to turn them out with or else use a brass drift to tap them loose with.

Breather tube is normal there. Later models breathe through breather bolts in the top end.

The difference in your '03 primary cover is that it has a derby cover you can remove to swap clutch cables and more. On the 88 you have to remove the primary cover to do so. But...you can make adjustments through the small cover if needed.

[Dragstews]

Might be a good idea to buy the tool to get those plugs out of the cover ...
They can be a booger at times ...

[JBinNC]

Of the two fasteners at the lower part of the primary:

The nut furthest forward is on a stud that supports the chain shoe. There should be a copper washer under the nut to serve as an oil seal. Do not overtighten this nut.

The screw further back is the primary/transmission oil level plug (with the bike vertical of course).

Jim

[farmall]

Drag is right about the tool. Anti-seize the threads too. Check the Carl Salter site for factory service manuals and parts books.

[Hoghead]

If you have to drop the cover off, take time to strip off the shitty lacquer that the factory puts on the alloy (or be a shit like me and get yer ex-wife to do it, hey, paint stripper is dangerous!) . If the alloy corrodes under the lacquer it's a pig to polish out. Watch the seal around the gearshift shaft too, I replaced mine to stop an irritating dribble.

[tomiles]

Thanks yall. With a tap and a few hammer taps I was able to get those inspection covers off but it took some convincing.

I have the motor pulled and on a stand now and the frame picked clean and off to get the hard tail welded on next week.

If yall have advice on bumping this 883 up to 1200-1250 im all ears. Gonna start a thread on that shortly

[farmall]

xlforum is the best source of bore kit info and there's a lot of it. Drop in kits make life easy while avoiding the hunt for a good machinist who has torque plates.

Conversion forum: http://xlforum.net/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=224

Study thoroughly and consider what cam you want to run. Contact your bore kit vendor if you've any questions.

The stock butterfly Keihin isn't great but if you can find the aftermarket (Andrews or vtwin, both out of production) accel pump cover with the check ball that and a rejet work passably. I'd replace it with a later CV carb if money allows.

[tomiles]

Bad ass man, thanks! ill check out the forum over the next few weeks

[Dragstews]

If yall have advice on bumping this 883 up to 1200-1250 im all ears.

Bore your jugs to 3-1/2" will get you to 1200 cc's ....
(That's going a full 1/2" oversize on each)

About your 883 Heads ...
Those are nothing to write home about !!

http://www.chopcult.com/forum/showthread.php?t=22895

A nice cure for the heads is to hunt down a set of Buell Thunder Heads and buy the matching pistons ...