question on points

[Guest]

First time posting, this might be the wrong thread. I just installed points on my 2001 sportster. I used a how to guide I found on here. http://www.chopcult.com/forum/showthread.php?t=34911

My question is I set it up like the "how to said." I set the initial timing on the compression stoke on the rear cylinder with the 1 timing dot. It runs but the timing adjustment is all the way counter clockwise. The points gap is .018. I think the advance cam may need to be pulled out and rotated 180 degrees. Thanks for the help.

[TriNortchopz]

Did you notice that the thread you followed says timing is set using FRONT cylinder? "Make sure your engine is at the proper firing spot on the #1 cylinder. You are looking for 35deg BTDC on the compression stroke for the front cylinder. The solid line is TDC the two dots are 20deg BTDC and the single dot is 35deg BTDC"

Is the points gap 18 thou on both lobes? Gotta be within 2 thou
Advance cam assembly should have the pin on the back to align with the slot - like in the pic in the thread you followed, so can't put it in 180 out - unless the locating pin has been wiped out.

Did you have the advancer held in the advanced position while setting the timing using the one dot (35 degree advance)? If not, you should have timed it at the double dots - not advanced.

Have you checked your timing with a timing light? (power it with a separate battery - not the one in your bike) Is your advancer working properly?
If timing is on when fully advanced, go riding.
If it is retarded and can't advance it because you are out of slot, set points gap to 19 thou, it will open sooner, so advancing your timing.

[Tattooo]

Man your lucky that it runs at all.....

[bpeak]

Wouldn't this change also effect the type of coil and spark plug wires that are run too? Or no? I recall with my old ironhead the dudes on here identifying that my bike came with the wrong ohm coil on it from the previous owner. I needed a 5 ohm with my points, and the correct solid copper plug wires. I thought that with the newer fully electronic ignitions - you'd run a 3 ohm coil and can/should run the newer carbon suppression plug wires?

Or am I missing something? (Ready... willing... and hoping... to learn)

[JBinNC]

Wouldn't this change also effect the type of coil and spark plug wires that are run too? Or no? I recall with my old ironhead the dudes on here identifying that my bike came with the wrong ohm coil on it from the previous owner. I needed a 5 ohm with my points, and the correct solid copper plug wires. I thought that with the newer fully electronic ignitions - you'd run a 3 ohm coil and can/should run the newer carbon suppression plug wires?

Or am I missing something? (Ready... willing... and hoping... to learn)

Yes, you need a 5 ohm coil to run with points. If you use the original 3 ohm coil, it pulls too much current and will burn the points up in short order

Jim