bearing support question and alignment

[Tattooo]

Hell I know what you're talking about and I haven't even finished my first HAHA. I had that issue when torquing the rocker box studs and it pulled up. you said the same thing than LOL.

Glad your learning and I'm glad to help................

[Tattooo]

Thought exercise: Describe in text with no tactile demonstration or torque measuring device how to reasonably correctly torque 1/4", 1/2" and 1" diameter bolts. Your audience is an internet poster straight off the block with no formal or informal hands on instruction.

Yep I agree it's tough to learn for sure..... One thing I did in my early years is only use 3 fingers when tightening a smaller bolt with a wrench or ratchet...Use your thumb and two fingers that way you don't have much leverage.........

[Dougtheinternetannoyance123]

Farmall is once again correct. I was a 43151 AFSC in the USAF as well, although did more than that (Primary AFSC). I also prefer a clicker type Torque wrench properly maintained and have them checked once in a while by a instrument tech.

Many people dont know that type of wrench is ALWAYS stored at the lowest possible setting. One few people know that is obscure but can get you dinged, or as a tool to fire a problem employee in certain tech fields is... "Tell me, what procedure did you use to warm up your torque wrench before use?"

In the military and high end civilian shops where certs matter, you might notice a series of bolt heads on a plate on a fixture or workbench. The proper procedure remove the torque wrench from storage case, Allow to normalize to ambient temp and then use it at progressively higher torque settings on the Bolt heads with positive clicks each time. This is BEFORE useage on actual components. Things like acft wheels, brakes, landing gear people get pretty excited about when they fail or found to be improperly serviced.

I DO have calibrated elbows and wrists, and these days they click as well. Another tool I still use is a comparator gauge. Keeps my finger tips calibrated as well. Its a rectangular strip with bumps and indents and measured off in Thousandths. I can rub my finger over a positive/Neg surface and tell you its 10 thou or whatever size.

In other pursuits, I am also a certified Breast examiner, When I met Mrs Doug, I cupped her fun bags and named off the exact size of D cups and she slapped me. But 30 years later we are still together. I dont get enough in the field testing on breasts anymore and have to assess visually only. Not as fun. As a FAA licensed A&P and NDT tech I cannot certify them as Airworthy without hands on assessment.

[farmall]

Fingertips and fingernails are so sensitive they can pick up damage that's difficult to see. For decades Pratt and Whitney and GE used blind and legally blind inspectors to check fan and turbine blades. It's also standard practice on USAF flightline pre and post-flight fan inspection. Find nick, then use borescope to check if within limits. Props are also inspected by feeling for roughness.

Fingers are badass. Fondle worn parts including round ones.

[AndyNZ]

Seeing as i've just done EXACTLY what you are proposing to do here's a list of everything that needed doing (and photos too!!). To give some background i have a '71 Cone shovel, Ratchet top in Motorfactory case with ears on the bottom, BDL belt drive, complete tin primary setup.

I bought the following -

- Bearing support from APM
- Paughco Tin Inner primary for Cone Shovel
- BDL 1.5" Belt drive
- JP Cycles Transmission adjusting kit - https://www.jpcycles.com/product/620...-adjusting-kit

Here a list of all the work i had to do to get it all to fit and WORK

- First thing is fitting the trans adjuster kit, i made new G-Box studs as mine were too short

- Next i had to drill out all the bolt hole on the inner to allow adjustment/alignment
- Holesaw clearance holes for the bearing support bolts/nuts

- Chase all the inner primary threads due to the chrome
- Grind down the weld lip on the inside to allow for belt clearance, then TIG weld this back together using barely any filler fire. (you can see where ive welded in the second pic)


- The i had to machine the BDL clutch basket OD down for clearance


- Had to make new mounts top and bottom for both the inner primary with vibration mounts.

That about sums it up. the short is there is a lot more work than simply bolting things on needed. Not trying to scare you off but i found it hard to find an honest view on what was needed to get it all to fit.

[Guest]

Ah the basket is probably what got me before. Had it on and off about a dozen times before canning the idea.

[AndyNZ]

Ah the basket is probably what got me before. Had it on and off about a dozen times before canning the idea.

From memory i think i took about 10mm (0.394") off the OD of the basket. Basically just machined it down till i had a bout 1/32" of meat left above the rivets. Drilling out of the inner primary mounting holes then means you can adjust the "angle" of the inner primary so it clears the basket all the way around. From as the inner arrived it fouled the basket like crazy.

Hope that's helpful.