bearing support question and alignment

[firstripholdmybeer]

Are bearing supports always used, no matter if you're running wet or open belt clutch? my set up is going to be a 1.5" belt in a repop panhead tin and not sure if I need to have that bearing support on the backside of the inner tin or not. This will be on a ratchet top trans with a cone shovel

As for alignment, does everyone use this kit or something similar?

[JBinNC]

With a cone shovel, alternator equipped, and the long transmission mainshaft to clear the alternator, yes, you need the bearing support. Be warned, the last two that have passed through my hands have had the mounting holes so far off that they would lock up the mainshaft if the hamfisted managed to install them. The holes had to be drilled larger, or in one case milled into slots (way off). So check fit and alignment, and don't be surprised if you have to modify new parts.

Jim

[farmall]

Good to know. Given the choice would you prefer milled (or filed) slots to hole diameter enlargement?

[JBinNC]

Good to know. Given the choice would you prefer milled (or filed) slots to hole diameter enlargement?

You can of course file the holes, but the piece is 1 1/4" or more thick, so drifting an end mill through the hole is much quicker. If the misalignment is just a little, I would just enlarge the holes. These things don't fit nice like an inner primary anyway, although a positive location would be a plus for the shaft support the thing is supposed to provide.

Jim

[Dragstews]

Your tranny don't have track lugs casted into the bottom of the case ...
Only the trans studs are doing the work to keep the trans from moving around on the mounting plate ...

If you plan on riding hard it would be a grand idea to beef this area...



VT No: 17-7661
Adjustable transmission mounting plate with a black finish. Features built in adjuster screws for a positive and even adjustment.
The built in dual adjusters operate from the end of the 1/2" thick steel plate buy counter bored socket head screws. They permit accurate alignment of the mainshaft and are ideal for open belt drive models. The three holes at the front fit various frames.

And ....



VT No: 9919-3
OEM No: 34725-26
Transmission bottom stud kit for side valve models.
Can also be used on Big Twin 4-speed models for rigidity when a primary belt drive is installed. *NOTE: 2 sets are required for this application.

A motor plate would also add support ....

[firstripholdmybeer]

Your tranny don't have track lugs casted into the bottom of the case ...
Only the trans studs are doing the work to keep the trans from moving around on the mounting plate ...

If you plan on riding hard it would be a grand idea to beef this area......

Thanks you so much for this. I'll definitely be getting that mounting plate, seems like a great investment. as for the studs, are those specific to that plate? I have all four studs and they seem fine.

[JBinNC]

If the studs in the bottom of your case are good & tight, DON'T FUCK WITH THEM.

Jim

[firstripholdmybeer]

With a cone shovel, alternator equipped, and the long transmission mainshaft to clear the alternator, yes, you need the bearing support. Be warned, the last two that have passed through my hands have had the mounting holes so far off that they would lock up the mainshaft if the hamfisted managed to install them. The holes had to be drilled larger, or in one case milled into slots (way off). So check fit and alignment, and don't be surprised if you have to modify new parts.

Jim

Thanks Jim, great info as always. I actually have the support already I just wasn't sure if I needed it since I'll be switching to belt.I'm planning to do kick only, here's my setup

[firstripholdmybeer]

If the studs in the bottom of your case are good & tight, DON'T FUCK WITH THEM.

Jim

hahaha thanks for that, probably just avoided a mess!

[Dragstews]

If the studs in the bottom of your case are good & tight, DON'T FUCK WITH THEM.

Jim

Yeah, might outta leave em along ....
Pain to get them out and back in again....

I don't have a problem with them, but I'm tooled up to do the work...



This tool (One way roller clutch) locks on the stud, kinda like double nuts... A bit of heat and out they come...

The locating studs allows for more of a foot area in the plate...

To reinstall the new studs after a trail fit some heat again, red loctite, and a Jim's tool gets them in....

[JBinNC]

Yeah, might outta leave em along ....
Pain to get them out and back in again....

I don't have a problem with them, but I'm tooled up to do the work...



This tool locks on the stud, kinda like double nuts... A bit of heat and out they come...

The locating studs allows for more of a foot area in the plate...

To reinstall the new studs after a trail fit some heat again, red loctite, and a Jim's tool gets them in....

The problem lies not in the tooling, but in the case itself. The case tends to corrode around the studs (dissimilar metals), and so as you remove one, the case threads often come with it. It's not for nothing that the base studs are offered in first AND second oversize. Two other factors are the short threaded area in case and the fact that the studs must be oil tight, and the holes are through holes. All adds up to, leave 'em be until you have to fix them.
And you guys with the old pan transmissions, you might want to limit the nut torque on those to 20 or 25ft.lb., because those cases are getting really old.

Jim

[Dragstews]

70's and up cases are not old, Jim ...

40 & 50's are getting back there....

And sealing is mostly done with the locktite, but for a extra measure ....

[Tattooo]

And you guys with the old pan transmissions, you might want to limit the nut torque on those to 20 or 25ft.lb., because those cases are getting really old.
Jim

I never use a torque wrench on a Harley bolt..... Unless it's a flywheel nut or something critical like that...... People need to learn when a bolt is tight...... If sure jim you know what I'm talking about.........

[firstripholdmybeer]

I never use a torque wrench on a Harley bolt..... Unless it's a flywheel nut or something critical like that...... People need to learn when a bolt is tight...... If sure jim you know what I'm talking about.........

Hell I know what you're talking about and I haven't even finished my first HAHA. I had that issue when torquing the rocker box studs and it pulled up. you said the same thing than LOL.

Great info and thanks for mentioning that tool. now I know when the time comes

[farmall]

Glyptal is a proven hot rod "casting surface smoother" (speeds oil drainback, first used in the flathead car era) and sealant. Also works for its intended purpose protecting electrical windings.

People need to learn when a bolt is tight..

Except there's no way to accurately train that except by comparison to a torque wrench + practice repetitions, which is why the aviation world trains that way from the start. I've formally trained many noob fighter fixers. One way to teach (and learn) feel is have the student torque to X number of foot lbs/units of choice then have them put an extra ~1/8 turn manually with a non-torque wrench not least because the wrench arm length will nearly always be different from the torque wrench. Of course it won't be an exact match but will be close enough for typical fasteners. I grew my calibrated wrist the old fashioned way but that isn't quick nor is there a consistent verbal way to describe it. OTOH when trained with torque wrenches new mechs/techs rapidly develop manual feel. Breakaway torque is not the same as applied torque because applied torque is dynamic while breakaway torque is static so having students attempt to learn by loosening no workee.

Breakaway torque in the clockwise direction is used for torque audits. This is worth a read: https://www.srtorque.com/resources/w...k-away-torque/

Thought exercise: Describe in text with no tactile demonstration or torque measuring device how to reasonably correctly torque 1/4", 1/2" and 1" diameter bolts. Your audience is an internet poster straight off the block with no formal or informal hands on instruction.

70's and up cases are not old, Jim ...

They like us ain't getting any younger or less brittle! Picture your fave '70s porn stars and supermodels then and now.