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  1. #1

    Default New guy with issues

    I have a 94 wide glide with a no spark issue. A couple of weeks ago i got the bright idea to hide my handlebar control wires through my drag bars. Everything was fine for the 1st 50 miles or so until my headlight blew the glass out along with every other bulb on the bike. A wire shorted out and melted my TSM. It killed all power to everything. After several hours of chasing wires and such i now have a headlight, tail light, brake light and the engine is once again turning over but no spark. All troublesjooting checks out until it should spark but still doesnt fire. Could having the wires on the opposite sides of the main circuit breaker cause it not to fire or possibly having too many things grounded at one place cause this to happen? As of right now my TSM is unhooked completely. Should i ground the ground wire from the TSM Harness plug to the frame or battery? Im stuck and need ideas so any help would be appreciated. Thanks

  2. #2

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    Blown bulbs usually indicate an overcharging condition. Without the motor running, you are not going to be able to check your regulator output. The same voltage spike that took the bulbs out may have killed your ignition module and/or pickup as well.

    Man, it's gonna be tough to sort this out, but when you get the motor running, check the regulator output FIRST, or you may get a repeat of what just happened. Of course, you can disconnect the regulator input or output wires until you get the ignition system sorted, using a fully charged battery as the current source.

    Jim

  3. #3
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    I would ensure the ignition system wiring is isolated from everything else, like pre-TSSM bikes. Mine don't get anything connected to the ignition system not required to run except the kill switch on the bars and you can bypass that to use the key switch for now. I replace TSSM with two cheap solid state flashers (wiring is obvious) when running signals because I don't need an expensive "flasher" or need self-cancelling because thumbs are more reliable.

    You can bypass the existing ignition harness completely to test. What doesn't exist cannot malfunction.

    Jim is of course correct. Isolate and test the charging system. When you put it back together I suggest wiring everything for fast troubleshooting and maintenance. A bike should be like a battle rifle, all function. I don't run hidden wires.

  4. #4
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    I don't run hidden wires.
    Neither do I......... All that does it create problems in the future like the OP is finding out.........

    Plus what's wrong with wires showing if they are covered in a nice looking loom/cover......

  5. #5

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    How do i bypass the kill switch and key ignition to test?

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    Disconnect old power wire to ignition at key switch and ignition to eliminate that section of harness.

    Do you have a schematic for your bike?

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    Do you have a schematic for your bike?
    Like he said......... Do you??????

  8. #8

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    I have a service manual but it doesnt have the best wiring diagram.

  9. #9

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    Quote Originally Posted by Tomcatx5 View Post
    I have a service manual but it doesnt have the best wiring diagram.
    If it's an HD manual, yes it does have THE BEST wiring diagram. Hard to read? Yes, yes it is. Those little lines are real close together. I use a steel rule to follow the lines.

    Jim

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    Check the Carl Salter site for a .pdf. No malware or bullshit. You can also get earlier manuals to compare wiring. .pdfs are handy to zoom sections so there's that. Get a parts catalog too.

    The factory service manual and parts catalog are the best tools an HD rider can own. I collect them in any format.
    Last edited by farmall; 08-14-2019 at 8:18 AM.

  11. #11

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    I did all the troubleshooting steps in my manual with the exception of one test that calls for a jumper wire with a capacitor between coil and battery with another separate wire to try and get plug to spark. I didnt have a capacitor. Im wondering if i have something grounded that shouldnt be or possibly it might make a difference if there is more than one thing grounded to the same spot. All ohm readings appear to be within the range specified in my manual. Anything that is supposed to make it spark just doesnt make it happen. I just dont want to start throwing money at it just to find out i have or didnt have one wire grounded that should or shouldnt be grounded. Im hoping my ignition switch is the culprit but who knows. When i turn switch to auxillary i have nothing as far as dash lights go. With key switch in run position all dash lights work and enhine turns over just no spark. This has been a "character building" experience to put it nicely. I knew a man that said that anytime something was a giant pain in the ass! Needlesss to say i wont be running any wires through my handlebsrs anytime soon. Or ANYTIME EVER AGAIN!

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    Quote Originally Posted by Tomcatx5 View Post
    Im wondering if i have something grounded that shouldnt be or possibly it might make a difference if there is more than one thing grounded to the same spot.

    I'm wondering if something isn't grounded like it should be...... I've seen it before when a bike or a car for that matter has a short and the wire gets hot it breaks down or it's gets corrosion and looses connection.... A hot or ground.....

    Have you been all over the bike with a test light??????

  13. #13

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    I don't think running the wires in the bars had anything to do with the bulbs blowing out. That is a symptom of a voltage spike pure & simple, as I said in post #2. That is a result of the regulator not regulating. And it could be caused by a loose negative battery cable (which on your bike is tucked up under the frame and not easily accessed).

    The no spark condition could well be a result of a problem in the handlebar wiring, you may have to revisit your work there.

    Jim

  14. #14

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    I agree with Jim. If done right there should not be a problem with internal handlebar wiring. In fact i am of the opinion it is a better intallation method because not only does it look cleaner but the wires are well protected.The most common reason for factory internal handlebar wiring failures is insulation breakdown. That Old cloth wiring that the factory used did not hold up very well. The insulation used on wire these days will last a life time plus more. I rewired my 65 handlebar wiring 30 years ago and its still holding up well. If you do any rewiring on any car,truck or bike use commercial wiring used for buildings. Avoid the auto parts store wire.

  15. #15

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    I eliminated the wiring in the handlebars entirely. I know that the ptoblem started there because i could see where the wires had shorted out and got hot. I miggt also have a regulator ptonlem but its very coincidental that the wires shorted and regulator messed up at same time without being a direct cause of. a short i would think. I have been wrong lots before though so ??

  16. #16

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    It could be one of THOSE coincidences.

    Jim

  17. #17

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    Im the reason for this whole issue and i will take full responsibility for whats happening. The wires on the left were barely sticking out of the switch maybe a half inch so it was crowded to say the least. I never even started on the wires on the right hand side so they shouldnt be in the problem. Like i said i have the TSM Unhooked so needless to say i wont have any turn signals but turn signals are the last of my concerns at the moment

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by JBinNC View Post
    I don't think running the wires in the bars had anything to do with the bulbs blowing out. That is a symptom of a voltage spike pure & simple, as I said in post #2. That is a result of the regulator not regulating. And it could be caused by a loose negative battery cable (which on your bike is tucked up under the frame and not easily accessed).

    The no spark condition could well be a result of a problem in the handlebar wiring, you may have to revisit your work there.

    Jim
    Wires running through handlebar holes certainly do cause problems! I know because I worked at a Honda Dealership on bikes that had wires going through handlebars and the wire would chaff on the inside of the oval hole where the metal was not deburred enough. Honda discontinued putting wires through handlebars after that. That was about 1968 or so.

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    Do you have power to the ignition module with key on and kill switch in run position?

    You can disconnect the ignition module then probe the harness side for power with ignition switch on.
    Last edited by farmall; 08-14-2019 at 2:02 PM.

  20. #20

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    Yes i have power to pretty .much everything i know of

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