New chain question.

[ShovelheadB]

First, you have to consider the wheel and tire, and the sprocket location on the wheel. It sounds like you need to move the sprocket away from the tire for chain clearance. That's first. You can use a straightedge and do a couple of measurements to the tire with a steel rule to get the proper chain location with respect to the tire.
Second, you have to get the chain line correct from the transmission sprocket to the wheel sprocket. That might mean using an offset sprocket at the transmission (which doesn't really work well on a four speed), moving the transmission to the left (for which there are offset transmission plates available), and/or moving the wheel to the right.
It sounds like this frame "good for a 180 tire" is not very well thought out. On the other hand, you are probably dealing with about a half inch of adjustment(s) to make this thing right.

Jim

Fantastic. Thanks. I think a 1/2” would do it but I’ll do as you’ve suggested. The frame is an Indian Larry, I trust those guy’s ability as they run 180mm tires on their builds. I’ve sent them an email too. Thanks again!

[Tattooo]

Fantastic. Thanks. I think a 1/2” would do it but I’ll do as you’ve suggested. The frame is an Indian Larry, I trust those guy’s ability as they run 180mm tires on their builds. I’ve sent them an email too. Thanks again!

Can you post a pic from the back looking at the front of your sprockets???? Don't get to close and not to far back either.....

[hillcat]

from your pic you need sprocket spacers
O-ring if you ride any dirt/gravel roads
more pics like Tattoo says.

[ShovelheadB]

Can you post a pic from the back looking at the front of your sprockets???? Don't get to close and not to far back either.....

This work?

[ShovelheadB]

Having an extremely hard time finding a offset front sprocket for a 4 speed transmission

[Tattooo]

This work?

Yep you need a smaller tire........ That looks straight as an arrow to me......

But you can move the rear out some because there is room, but I don't think you have room to move the trans sprocket because of the housing......

[JBinNC]

Having an extremely hard time finding a offset front sprocket for a 4 speed transmission

Because of the inner primary/ bearing support / motor plate, whatever you are using, it's hard to fit an offset sprocket to a four speed. Normally you move the transmission to the left with an offset transmission plate, and a spacer for the motor. I found it necessary to move the transmission to fit even a 160 tire to a four speed frame.
That is why I said this "180 frame" was not well thought out. They should have provided a transmission plate to put the transmission in the right place so the chain line would clear the 180 tire.
You can move the rear wheel to the right, and space the sprocket away from the tire for clearance, but the rear wheel will be offset in the chassis.

You have your work cut out for you; this is not just a bolt together project. "Measure twice, cut once."

Jim

[ShovelheadB]

Yep you need a smaller tire........ That looks straight as an arrow to me......

But you can move the rear out some because there is room, but I don't think you have room to move the trans sprocket because of the housing......

Thanks. May look into milling out some material from the pocket housing

[Davestune]

Run a narrower tire

[TriNortchopz]

Having an extremely hard time finding a offset front sprocket for a 4 speed transmission

180 WIDE TIRE SHOVELHEAD PARTS


This .25" offset sprocket kit alone will
get you a 160 on your 4-speed Bike


Using both these kits together
will get you a 180 on your bike

If you want to stick w/ a enclosed primary, you need to offset the primary by .25" and install a .25" offset transmission drive sprocket. Thus the .5" total will clear a 180. If you are running an open primary, you can achieve the .5" offset the belt kit.

http://www.cas4.com/Wide-Tire/Shovelhead-180-1980-FX.htm

another option is to run a jackshaft:

[hillcat]

Are you stuck on a 180? Seems the easiest/cheapest fix is a narrower tire.
IIRC my Duc Monster ran a 170.

[ShovelheadB]

180 WIDE TIRE SHOVELHEAD PARTS

[ATTACH=CONFIG]96288[/ATTACH]
This .25" offset sprocket kit alone will
get you a 160 on your 4-speed Bike

[ATTACH=CONFIG]96289[/ATTACH]
Using both these kits together
will get you a 180 on your bike

If you want to stick w/ a enclosed primary, you need to offset the primary by .25" and install a .25" offset transmission drive sprocket. Thus the .5" total will clear a 180. If you are running an open primary, you can achieve the .5" offset the belt kit.

http://www.cas4.com/Wide-Tire/Shovelhead-180-1980-FX.htm

another option is to run a jackshaft:
[ATTACH=CONFIG]96290[/ATTACH]

Thanks!

[Tattooo]

another option is to run a jackshaft:
[ATTACH=CONFIG]96290[/ATTACH]

Damn that's one ugly ass contraption............

[Dougtheinternetannoyance123]

In the good ol' days, People ran a fat 16" with a 5? cross section. 5.00x16" and now tires are measured differently, but with a hardtail. IE; Honda, Triumph Harley you ran that 16" and lower tire pressure 15-20 psi and that was your cushion and suspension.
It was common to get some rubbing on the sidewall, I might even have an old ancient wheel & tire in parts that shows it.

You look and it appears a diamond pattern on one side of the tire and its from the chain rubbing. This is enough to scare the safety people to death, and in truth, Any material removed from a sidewall is not good, But it WAS considered acceptable as long as it didnt penetrate or come close to the cords in the sidewall (Cords are the integrity of the tire, damage or weaken them you will have a very ugly blow out)

Your current problem is common with many custom and aftermarket built frames, Shit just never fits right. Are you MARRIED to the idea of a 180 tire? Why not go out and try and get some measurements on other tires. The specs, if you look at a tire chart for modern tires measures width cross section and height, But not all tires are the same. Some *MIGHT* have a slighly different profile and fit better. You might ask the fuktards who sold you the frame what tires they are using. Find a shop or parking lot full of bikes and see what others are running and get other tires measurements. (Also be aware measuring with a caliper off the rim bead edge can vary from wheel types.)

As to chain, I personally LIKE the O Ring chains, they have a little more rolling resistance-stiffness, But when properly maintained they last way longer than a regular or HD plain chain. Although, these days,, the X ring seems to be better, But a good O ring chain is a nice way to go.

Clearance for chains, Especially for the old British stuff I run, is a real problem, Both the primary case, frame mounts, and what tire/wheel to run. TNC is correct about the 520 setup and not just Nortons,, Theres some high HP sport bikes that run a 520 X ring or O ring and can handle more power than any Harley, Some vendors are offering 520 pitch sprockets ready to run, but availibility is spotty at times, But if you machine yourself you have to properly heat treat them.

Personally??? I love me Belt drives, Both on the primary and final drives. I know its not the cool hipster chopper thing, but man, all these years of running bikes, I get TIRED of the chain issues and on my Sporties and Buells its sure nice to run that belt. My Buells have 100hp at the rear wheel on the XBs so any BS that a Belt cant hang with high HP and wheelie perf is just sour grapes based on ignorance.
My $0.02 and worth less than you paid for it.