Shovelhead idle issue

[misfitJason]

I think I read about your issue on JJ (?) I don't hit that site very often.

I think your problem is low idle timing.

Here is how to fix it:
Go to a hobby shop and get a length of 7/32 OD brass hobby tubing, the kind that telescopes into the next size. (I think that is the right size, read along, and you can double check on your advance unit. )

Cut two pieces about 1/4" long, deburr, and press onto the limit pins on your advance weights. This will make the pin OD larger, limiting the travel of the advance weights.

Set your advanced timing where you want it, and the idle timing will automatically be higher. I do this routinely on shovels with Super Es, and I did it on my otherwise stock evo that is equipped with a Dyna S.

You will probably find kick starting EASIER.

If you don't think the change is enough, go back for the next size tubing and add another layer. (I have not had to do this yet.)

One of my tuning secrets, free to you. You sound like you are smart enough to appreciate it. I've done this probably close to 100 times.

Jim

P.S. To the OP, sorry for the hijack of your thread.

thanks for the tip. I don't think it's the advance though. I have tried two different ones up until now.

[JBinNC]

thanks for the tip. I don't think it's the advance though. I have tried two different ones up until now.

It's the AMOUNT of advance. That has been a major tuning factor for close to 100 years. A lot of effort was put into timing control back when everything was mechanical. It is taken too much for granted by most now that it is hidden in a black box. Check out some of the doorslammer racers at your local track if they are doing high level racing. They are using timing as a MAJOR tuning aid, because changes can be instantaneous. And when you are doing a sub -4 sec. 1/8mi., time is important.

Jim

[misfitJason]

It's the AMOUNT of advance. That has been a major tuning factor for close to 100 years. A lot of effort was put into timing control back when everything was mechanical. It is taken too much for granted by most now that it is hidden in a black box. Check out some of the doorslammer racers at your local track if they are doing high level racing. They are using timing as a MAJOR tuning aid, because changes can be instantaneous. And when you are doing a sub -4 sec. 1/8mi., time is important.

Jim

Thank you. That makes sense

[Toucan]

P.S. To the OP, sorry for the hijack of your thread.

No apology necessary I appreciate the knowledge. I'll soak up all the info and tricks I can get. Work got crazy so I still haven't gotten to my shovel yet, hoping tomorrow.

[Toucan]

Started my shovel up and took it for a spin for the hell of it. This time I started it up and let it idle for 5 or so minutes before hopping on to wait for it to die and it never died. Once warm is when it started dying at idle. Does this help narrow anything down?

[misfitJason]

I am not the OP but I figured I’d share what I found out on mine so far and maybe it will help you.

For starters I did have a little intake leak that was more present when my bike was warmed up than cold. I got rid of the intake leak and she ran better but still is stalling.

I swapped out mechanical advances for a cheap v-twin one with the black springs. No more stalling but I did have rpm cream when returning to idle. So I swapped back over to my Rivera primo one. No more idle creep. But I did notice that one had wear at the pins that attach the weights. Like a lot. I didn’t notice it before. I am wondering if hat could be my stalling issue