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  1. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by Toucan View Post
    Could you please elaborate on how to check and possibly tighten the acc. pump?
    Sorry I just looked through this thread.... It wasn't you that said that it was a different thread......

    LOL After a while carb threads start looking the same..... LOL

    But Jesse showed you above....

  2. #22

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    Quote Originally Posted by Tattooo View Post
    Sorry I just looked through this thread.... It wasn't you that said that it was a different thread......

    LOL After a while carb threads start looking the same..... LOL

    But Jesse showed you above....
    Haha right on.

    In regards to ignition, should I just open it up and reset the points timing per manual? Or is there a way to test without completely redoing it?

  3. #23

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    Quote Originally Posted by Toucan View Post
    Haha right on.

    In regards to ignition, should I just open it up and reset the points timing per manual? Or is there a way to test without completely redoing it?
    Go through the full routine. The symptoms you list could just as easily be ignition related. That variable has to be dealt with first.

    Jim

  4. #24

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    Quote Originally Posted by JBinNC View Post
    Go through the full routine. The symptoms you list could just as easily be ignition related. That variable has to be dealt with first.

    Jim
    Ill start there tomorrow. Thanks so much for the help and I'll keep the thread updated.

  5. #25

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    Service the advance unit before dealing with the points. You can change the points & condenser easily when the point plate is out for access to the advance unit.

    Jim

  6. #26

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    Quote Originally Posted by JBinNC View Post
    Service the advance unit before dealing with the points. You can change the points & condenser easily when the point plate is out for access to the advance unit.

    Jim
    Im finding tons of info on servicing and setting timing on the points but nothing mentions advance unit. What service is needed?

    Should I put new points in or use existing?
    Last edited by Toucan; 08-07-2019 at 4:25 PM.

  7. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by Toucan View Post
    Should I put new points in or use existing?

    NEW if they have many miles on them...........

  8. #28

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    The advance unit should be removed, disassembled, cleaned, and greased with a light white lithium grease. If the pivot pins or weights are worn, the unit should be replaced. A bad advance unit can cause a hanging high idle, similar to a vacuum leak.

    You can dress the points and reuse them if they were a good quality piece to start with, and are not too far gone. These days I prefer the Blue Streak points, and their very good condensers.

    Don't forget to lube the point cam with point cam grease. I still have the tube I started with from back when I worked on cars. I doubt I will ever use it up.

    Jim

  9. #29
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    I am dealing with this same issue right now. The difference between your situation and mine is I am sure I don’t have a intake leak at the seals. I swapped out all kinds of parts including my mechanical advance with no avail. All of this has led me to the throttle shaft and stupid nylon washer. That’s my next step

  10. #30

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    Quote Originally Posted by misfitJason View Post
    I am dealing with this same issue right now. The difference between your situation and mine is I am sure I don’t have a intake leak at the seals. I swapped out all kinds of parts including my mechanical advance with no avail. All of this has led me to the throttle shaft and stupid nylon washer. That’s my next step
    I think I read about your issue on JJ (?) I don't hit that site very often.

    I think your problem is low idle timing.

    Here is how to fix it:
    Go to a hobby shop and get a length of 7/32 OD brass hobby tubing, the kind that telescopes into the next size. (I think that is the right size, read along, and you can double check on your advance unit. )

    Cut two pieces about 1/4" long, deburr, and press onto the limit pins on your advance weights. This will make the pin OD larger, limiting the travel of the advance weights.

    Set your advanced timing where you want it, and the idle timing will automatically be higher. I do this routinely on shovels with Super Es, and I did it on my otherwise stock evo that is equipped with a Dyna S.

    You will probably find kick starting EASIER.

    If you don't think the change is enough, go back for the next size tubing and add another layer. (I have not had to do this yet.)

    One of my tuning secrets, free to you. You sound like you are smart enough to appreciate it. I've done this probably close to 100 times.

    Jim

    P.S. To the OP, sorry for the hijack of your thread.

  11. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by JBinNC View Post
    I think I read about your issue on JJ (?) I don't hit that site very often.

    I think your problem is low idle timing.

    Here is how to fix it:
    Go to a hobby shop and get a length of 7/32 OD brass hobby tubing, the kind that telescopes into the next size. (I think that is the right size, read along, and you can double check on your advance unit. )

    Cut two pieces about 1/4" long, deburr, and press onto the limit pins on your advance weights. This will make the pin OD larger, limiting the travel of the advance weights.

    Set your advanced timing where you want it, and the idle timing will automatically be higher. I do this routinely on shovels with Super Es, and I did it on my otherwise stock evo that is equipped with a Dyna S.

    You will probably find kick starting EASIER.

    If you don't think the change is enough, go back for the next size tubing and add another layer. (I have not had to do this yet.)

    One of my tuning secrets, free to you. You sound like you are smart enough to appreciate it. I've done this probably close to 100 times.

    Jim

    P.S. To the OP, sorry for the hijack of your thread.

    thanks for the tip. I don't think it's the advance though. I have tried two different ones up until now.

  12. #32

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    Quote Originally Posted by misfitJason View Post
    thanks for the tip. I don't think it's the advance though. I have tried two different ones up until now.
    It's the AMOUNT of advance. That has been a major tuning factor for close to 100 years. A lot of effort was put into timing control back when everything was mechanical. It is taken too much for granted by most now that it is hidden in a black box. Check out some of the doorslammer racers at your local track if they are doing high level racing. They are using timing as a MAJOR tuning aid, because changes can be instantaneous. And when you are doing a sub -4 sec. 1/8mi., time is important.

    Jim

  13. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by JBinNC View Post
    It's the AMOUNT of advance. That has been a major tuning factor for close to 100 years. A lot of effort was put into timing control back when everything was mechanical. It is taken too much for granted by most now that it is hidden in a black box. Check out some of the doorslammer racers at your local track if they are doing high level racing. They are using timing as a MAJOR tuning aid, because changes can be instantaneous. And when you are doing a sub -4 sec. 1/8mi., time is important.

    Jim
    Thank you. That makes sense

  14. #34

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    Quote Originally Posted by JBinNC View Post

    P.S. To the OP, sorry for the hijack of your thread.
    No apology necessary I appreciate the knowledge. I'll soak up all the info and tricks I can get. Work got crazy so I still haven't gotten to my shovel yet, hoping tomorrow.

  15. #35

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    Started my shovel up and took it for a spin for the hell of it. This time I started it up and let it idle for 5 or so minutes before hopping on to wait for it to die and it never died. Once warm is when it started dying at idle. Does this help narrow anything down?

  16. #36
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    I am not the OP but I figured I’d share what I found out on mine so far and maybe it will help you.

    For starters I did have a little intake leak that was more present when my bike was warmed up than cold. I got rid of the intake leak and she ran better but still is stalling.

    I swapped out mechanical advances for a cheap v-twin one with the black springs. No more stalling but I did have rpm cream when returning to idle. So I swapped back over to my Rivera primo one. No more idle creep. But I did notice that one had wear at the pins that attach the weights. Like a lot. I didn’t notice it before. I am wondering if hat could be my stalling issue

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