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  1. #1
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    Default super e butterfly sticking

    Hey guys, been a busy month wrenching on my 89 electra glide and 80 shovel. Currently the only thing I'm running into before wrapping everything up is that the super e I just replaced my cv with (never cared for cv's and it is for sale if anyone needs one) is that when both of the butterfly nuts are snugged down the throttle will not return to full close smoothly. I've already called s&s and at first they said rebuild kit. $80 or whatever later and a new shaft, lock washers, nuts and butterfly (oriented with the bevels facing the right direction) later I've still got the same problem. Called back and they said "talk to an old timer who might offer some help".... granted I bought it used and the dude I got it from said he had the same problem and left the nuts a little loose and didn't worry about it. Never had any problems with the handful of super e's I've run. Seems weird so I figured I'd reach out to the best resource I could think of to see if anyone has any thoughts.

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    Quote Originally Posted by EeeasyTiger View Post
    Hey guys, been a busy month wrenching on my 89 electra glide and 80 shovel. Currently the only thing I'm running into before wrapping everything up is that the super e I just replaced my cv with (never cared for cv's and it is for sale if anyone needs one) is that when both of the butterfly nuts are snugged down the throttle will not return to full close smoothly. I've already called s&s and at first they said rebuild kit. $80 or whatever later and a new shaft, lock washers, nuts and butterfly (oriented with the bevels facing the right direction) later I've still got the same problem. Called back and they said "talk to an old timer who might offer some help".... granted I bought it used and the dude I got it from said he had the same problem and left the nuts a little loose and didn't worry about it. Never had any problems with the handful of super e's I've run. Seems weird so I figured I'd reach out to the best resource I could think of to see if anyone has any thoughts.

    How tight are you getting the nuts????

    Is your intake and carb surface level/flat??????

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    I tested it with the carb off the bike, after I put the new shaft and butterfly in and if you tighten the nuts to the point where the my start to compress the lock washers it is better but if you flatten the lock washers (I’d say maybe 5-7 ft lbs by my feel) it’ll stick to the point where it needs to be forced back closed.
    I did not check flatness of the carb when I got it. I know the intake is good cause it came off my 92 softail before I sold it with a different carb.

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    Quote Originally Posted by EeeasyTiger View Post
    I did not check flatness of the carb when I got it.

    I would check it.........

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    Post a few pics of the set up when you get a chance......

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    I had the same thing happen, what I noticed was the brass butterfly was stamped and had a small lip on one end, had some light burrs that would get caught a lot and not close fully. I took some 400 grit and hand eased the edge till clean and I was clear then. They were TINY burrs only caught because of soft aluminum would grab good. just my experience. hope it helps.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Tattooo View Post
    I would check it.........
    I’ll pull it off tomorrow morning and double check. And post some pics too.

    @shank1kole it’s a brand new butterfly but I’ll look at it closely and see if it or the throat has any imperfections.

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    I've never managed to wear out throttle bushes on an S&S despite high mileage so I've never swapped shafts. I never disturb throttle shafts or plates on any carb unless they are worn enough to require replacement. I've been looking for a free/cheap bare body to bush for giggles since I've the milling machine (it's not a manual task though I'm sure some have gotten away with that) to do it square and I'm easily entertained. Unfortunately I'm getting my shoulder replaced next week so I can't do your carb.

    Exactly how did you rebush your carb body? If the job isn't performed in a milling machine or precision (no home shop shit) drill press it's likely to be insufficiently accurate because the slop will allow the reamer to follow the misaligned (by the carb body itself) bushings rather than ream them straight. Drill bits do not cut round holes so accurate reaming is necessary.

    A throttle shaft is narrow and easily bends (due to the milled cutout for the throttle plate) slightly to fit bushings misaligned by their bores in the carb body. When a flat throttle plate is tightened it attempts to straighten the shaft causing drag. Loosening the screws deloads the throttle shaft.

    I would only use the "extreme wear method" exactly as directed because it is the most precise:

    https://www.sscycle.com/docs/default...4.pdf?sfvrsn=4

    I'm sure Dragstews could sort it out easily if so inclined and postage is cheap. It's a basic machine shop job but best to have an experienced carb guy tackle it.
    Last edited by farmall; 08-03-2019 at 10:18 PM.

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    Ok so I got the carb off and my best guess is the bushings aren’t straight. Even without the butterfly in there it’ll bind. So I guess I should have just spent the extra $100 and gotten a good one instead of jumping on what I thought was a deal.
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    Quote Originally Posted by EeeasyTiger View Post
    So I guess I should have just spent the extra $100 and gotten a good one instead of jumping on what I thought was a deal.

    Yep, cheap isn't always the best way......... Usually it will just cost you money.........

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    It probably would have been fine had the repair been performed to specifications. A machinist could press out the bushings, align the bores in the casting with a light ream if they think it wise, install new bushings and ream per factory instructions. The ream specified is .251" so a test rod of .250" drill rod could verify alignment as it would be less likely to deflect than a throttle shaft.

    The likely way they were mis-machined is by reaming each bushing separately.

    Dunno if S&S still perform that job as mentioned in their instructions but they'd be the best bet since they've all the fixtures to machine the carbs and could knock it out with no effort. It would be worth asking.

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    I’ll call them again but they didn’t sound very helpful last time I spoke with them. Sucks that people aren’t honest cause I messaged the guy I got it from after the fact and that’s when he told me he had the same problem.

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    In that case I'd contact Dragstews. Then we might get some cool pics of how he does them and of course you'll get it done right.

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    I got it working with the accel pump side slightly loose. Gonna run it for now as is cause my pockets aren’t deep enough to keep the two bikes I have perfect. The price you pay for having one Harley to ride and one to work on... thanks for all your input

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    Quote Originally Posted by EeeasyTiger View Post
    I got it working with the accel pump side slightly loose.
    Was it leaking where it was loose????? Glad you found it........

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    Quote Originally Posted by Tattooo View Post
    Was it leaking where it was loose????? Glad you found it........
    No leaks and it’s been running perfect ever since.

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