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not mine its a c/p. 1970 hs1 90cc twin
completely reversible, . ign pickups and rotor for vw beetle points replacement. (empi accu fire units) think total cost of parts like 80 bucks. the only modification i did was to tap an m4 hole where the pickup mounts, the lower adjuster hole captures the 'nub' on the back of the pickup which keeps it aligned. unlike an rd set of points, the point spivot does not attach to the plate so i could use the stocker without having to modify beyond the one hole each. I lathed the aluminum rotor shaft out of some 6061. Note the rotor to hat mount. drilled a 1.4mm hole thru side when aligned, made aligning pin/clip with welding wire that has tension in hat like a big locking circlip. washer keeps it all in place. test ride: success, really runs good. still slow as hell. but not quite as slow. (60 max with tailwind).
No, not going to make any . its easy to do, just get in there. you -could- use a points cam and washers to do it but the lathed aluminum is really the best way to get the air-gap correct.
very cool restomod gone slightly wrong. so whats going on and why is it still slow as hell with the points gone. the op is expecting a result that did not happen with the ignition change. got to give it to this boy its neat and professional but he is a little off. when used on the right bike its almost off the shelf. stack of washers will work you don't need a lathe.
here is what is going on. normally on a twin like this there are 2 sets of points attached to 2 ignition coils. + goes to each coil. the points go to the other terminal. dwell is when the points are closed and the ignition charges. the field in the coil fires when the points cam opens the points. stupid simple switch attached to the coil.
whats going on. there is a hall sensor in each module. the modules wire in just like points. it is a modern points replacement. the module fires when a magnet passes over. the vw bug has 4 cylinders points and a distributor. the boy has used 2 modules because the bike has 2 sets of points. since there are 2 modules the boy has punched out the 3 extra tiny magnets in the plastic disc. the one magnet spins like a points cam did before.
so why is it not working better than points. like I said the vw has a distributor. it also has a vacuum advance. the boy has static timing the way its done. timing is the same at idle as it is at 8k. if your bike has a centrifugal advance this would be an excellent modern replacement. once set it will never need to be adjusted ever again. set it and forget it.
points are not bad. they even have advantages over electronic ignitons. its nice to run without a battery. sure they wear and need to be adjusted every thousand miles. for me that means once a year, not that big a deal. they will wear a lot less if the amperage of the load is decreased. if the op used stock points to fire a dc cdi rev box he would get the ignition timing he needs from its internal igniton curve. using stock points to fire a cdi rev box would have given the boy the gain he was looking for. since you need only a tiny trigger voltage to fire the box the only wear on the points would be heel wear. not set it and forget it but almost. the condensors need to be removed if the points are to trigger the rev box. the only other mod needed is to change to cdi coils. this type of coil fires from the rev box.
completely reversible, . ign pickups and rotor for vw beetle points replacement. (empi accu fire units) think total cost of parts like 80 bucks. the only modification i did was to tap an m4 hole where the pickup mounts, the lower adjuster hole captures the 'nub' on the back of the pickup which keeps it aligned. unlike an rd set of points, the point spivot does not attach to the plate so i could use the stocker without having to modify beyond the one hole each. I lathed the aluminum rotor shaft out of some 6061. Note the rotor to hat mount. drilled a 1.4mm hole thru side when aligned, made aligning pin/clip with welding wire that has tension in hat like a big locking circlip. washer keeps it all in place. test ride: success, really runs good. still slow as hell. but not quite as slow. (60 max with tailwind).
No, not going to make any . its easy to do, just get in there. you -could- use a points cam and washers to do it but the lathed aluminum is really the best way to get the air-gap correct.
very cool restomod gone slightly wrong. so whats going on and why is it still slow as hell with the points gone. the op is expecting a result that did not happen with the ignition change. got to give it to this boy its neat and professional but he is a little off. when used on the right bike its almost off the shelf. stack of washers will work you don't need a lathe.
here is what is going on. normally on a twin like this there are 2 sets of points attached to 2 ignition coils. + goes to each coil. the points go to the other terminal. dwell is when the points are closed and the ignition charges. the field in the coil fires when the points cam opens the points. stupid simple switch attached to the coil.
whats going on. there is a hall sensor in each module. the modules wire in just like points. it is a modern points replacement. the module fires when a magnet passes over. the vw bug has 4 cylinders points and a distributor. the boy has used 2 modules because the bike has 2 sets of points. since there are 2 modules the boy has punched out the 3 extra tiny magnets in the plastic disc. the one magnet spins like a points cam did before.
so why is it not working better than points. like I said the vw has a distributor. it also has a vacuum advance. the boy has static timing the way its done. timing is the same at idle as it is at 8k. if your bike has a centrifugal advance this would be an excellent modern replacement. once set it will never need to be adjusted ever again. set it and forget it.
points are not bad. they even have advantages over electronic ignitons. its nice to run without a battery. sure they wear and need to be adjusted every thousand miles. for me that means once a year, not that big a deal. they will wear a lot less if the amperage of the load is decreased. if the op used stock points to fire a dc cdi rev box he would get the ignition timing he needs from its internal igniton curve. using stock points to fire a cdi rev box would have given the boy the gain he was looking for. since you need only a tiny trigger voltage to fire the box the only wear on the points would be heel wear. not set it and forget it but almost. the condensors need to be removed if the points are to trigger the rev box. the only other mod needed is to change to cdi coils. this type of coil fires from the rev box.