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Here's the gig ....
I have a Super-B carb and came up with this Air Filter ..
Not really the Filter I wanted to run, but I have it in hand..
It's made for the Bendix carbs so some mods will need to be made to it in order to nail it down on the B carb..
Four holes needs to be welded up and three new holes drilled..
Reason for me to do this work is not many Air Filters are being made for the Super B's anymore...
I have the S&S Filter that was made for the B carb, but it's so dang huge ... Wanted something smaller but still offer protection from sucking June-Bugs and Pixies into the motor..
Do I see black tappet blocks on that motor .... ???
Need to do sumthin bout dat .... Want too ... ??
That’s funny I ordered that air cleaner a couple of weeks ago it was like $29 on Amazon. Those black tappet blocks are some Dave’s tune Fuckery that still need to be dealt with so yes I am interested
What you see in the photo are solid lifters ...
I like using the 48-52 type tappets cause they are easy to adjust ... Pushrods are S&S Chromoly for the 48-52 year models ...
Now if you scoot has Hyd tappets and you like to keep them ... Do so ..
Disclaimer:
The Mo-Co did some nutty things with the tappet blocks in the mid and late 60's ...
Some blocks have the oil port moved further to the outside, which means after/market blocks won't capture the drilled oil port in the case !!!
(No freaken clue why they did dat)
"IF" you do intend to run chrome blocks and keep the hyd lifters on line, best to chrome the ones you have ...
The motor is a 69 with solid lifters outside oiler head’s and davetune claims the lifter blocks are oversized for the lifters blah blah blah don’t mess with it
That being said if I do new lifters and pushrods etc. the old shit doesn’t really matter at this point and with all that stuff fit the 69 motor?
The stock lifter size is .731"
You would need to mic what's in yours and order the oversize 48-52 tappets ..
Get a set of S&S pushrods for early Pan and Plug & Play ..
(BTY- Funny looking 69 with those heads on it ... )
The stock lifter size is .731"
You would need to mic what's in yours and order the oversize 48-52 tappets ..
Get a set of S&S pushrods for early Pan and Plug & Play ..
(BTY- Funny looking 69 with those heads on it ... )
Ooops I meant 1965 not 1969 and yeah maybe I gotta cut back on the devils lettuce just a bit
Trying to dial in this carburetor and let me preface this with saying when it was on my shovel it ran perfectly other than the wandering idle all because of the worn throttle shaft when I put it on this Panhead it ran fine the only changes are the switch from a velocity stack to an air cleaner and chrome.
Starts fine idles well has a slight hesitancy and break up when blipping the throttle I go for a ride and it wants to hesitate at low rpm’s kind of sort of cleans up a little bit in the mid range and when I accelerate past 2500 rpm’s it doesn’t have the acceleration it should and it sounds like it’s sputtering a bit
I swapped out the 72 main jet for a 74 and it made no difference so I went down to a 70 and that actually made it worse. So I put the 72 back in.
The plugs looked a bit dark with a 72 but that seems to be where it kind of runs the best
During all of my tuning I also went for a short ride I rode from my shop to home, came out a half hour later gas is dripping out of the carburetor. It appears I have a stuck float or the needle that shuts off the fuel valve isn’t doing its job.
I pulled the plugs kicked it over and gas came shooting out of the front spark plug hole. I removed the float bowl everything seem to be working I lowered the flow level just a hair put it all back together and started it up and stood back 10 feet while it idled in case it burst into flames ha ha
I rode it back to the shop trying to get clean acceleration but it breaks up and and If I feed it throttle in the tiniest increments it will slowly work its way up to 50 or 60 miles an hour.
I’ve then rode it a couple miles down the road to my favorite barbecue place had dinner came out gave it a couple kicks nothing. I stood the bike straight up and again gas comes pouring out of the air cleaner. Same routine again pulled plugs removed float bowl no gas shooting out of the spark plug this time maybe it didn’t sit long enough but this time I actually turned off the fuel. I had already sat down at the bar and realized well last time I parked it leaked gas so I ran out and turned it off after a few minutes but I guess that was enough to flood the carburetor
Got it fired up rode it back to the shop and parked it in disgust.
I don’t know if I’m barking up the wrong tree messing with the jetting if it ran fine before it should run fine now what I’m thinking of doing is putting the velocity stack back on maybe this 5 inch round air filter is the culprit? Although I don’t know how it could be.
At the mouth of this carburetor where the backing plate for the air filter bolts I don’t know if I’m blocking some sort of air bleed or something?
And as far as the carburetor float the little piece that the float pushes into the fuel inlet to stop the fuel has a flat top on it and I took apart a super B I had lying around and the fuel stop on that actually has a pointed rubber tip I am going to swap that one in to see if that will shut off the fuel
Any thoughts or suggestions would be appreciated
And on another note while I was sputtering around town I noticed that the carburetor had heavy condensation on the body I guess that’s due to being chrome now? It was 90° and humid as hell but that carburetor body was cool to the touch and covered with condensation. More clues!
I’m working today but when I’m done I’ll take some pictures of the fuel inlet shut off pieces that I have and maybe a video of it breaking up as I go through the RPM range
Backing plate off, this is the throttle tube spacer/adaptor
Carb intake
This same setup was on prev bike. That hole on the intake side of the carburetor was blocked previously and is also blocked with the current set up so I don’t think that does anything negative
Fuel shut off on the left is from a Super B the one on the right came out of the GBL
They are not compatible the Super B one is a larger diameter and is also shorter
Float Level
Blowing compressed air into the fuel inlet and then manually shutting it by raising the float does not let air pass so it is working
Wtf did u do this time, it was running pissa after i adjusted it, so hows it go to shit. Owait. You put your hands on it.
Hey genius you rode it 500 feet and then declared “you’re going to need to fine-tune it“ yeah no shit. But the clutch is perfect buddy! Dealing with two issues the fuel shut off which I just disassembled and checked and it’s working fine and why is it not running like it was before? Can going from a velocity stack to a simple air cleaner cause it to run so shitty? Starting & idle are fine. Seems to need more fuel but going richer on the jetting made no difference. You would think going from a velocity stack to a simple air cleaner if anything would’ve made it run a little better?
But it looks good with this other air cleaner. The cover pops off without any tools so I’m gonna keep this on until I solve the fuel situation 100%
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