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  1. #1

    Default XS650 Chopper - Mini Brake issue

    Hey Guys my name is AR I have built a 1979 Yamaha xs650SG Chopper. I have been having trouble with the front brake locking and compressing the springer front end. I have a completely brand new cycle standard 21" mini brake drum wheel had got from Lowbrow customs. Anyone have this issue??

  2. #2
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    Where is your brake arm mounted? It should be to the back leg. Is the brake plate(with shoes attached) able to float freely when the axle is tightened down (before brake arm is attached)? Have you checked the diameter of the shoes compared to the diameter of the drum? What springer ya got?
    Need pics, we need a few pics, of what ya got.

    Oh, and this has been asked here before:

    2018 Thread: Mini drum front brake. Did I do this right?
    http://www.chopcult.com/forum/showthread.php?t=51274

    2017 Thread: Mini drum on repop HD springer
    http://www.chopcult.com/forum/showthread.php?t=48926

    2010 Thread: Mini drum on DNA springer
    http://www.chopcult.com/forum/showthread.php?t=3988

  3. #3

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    Brake arm is mounted to the back leg. Everything moves freely on the bike it is just when you gently squeeze the brake and it wants to fully lock up. The springer front end is a DNA narrow -2" under. The wheel is from lowbrow brand new Cycle Standard mini brake with an Avon tyre.
    I do not have a close up picture of the wheel out of town at the moment.

    Click image for larger version. 

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  4. #4

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    "it is just when you gently squeeze the brake and it wants to fully lock up."

    My guess is that the brake shoes are fitted wrongly for the direction of rotation of the hub.
    i.e. The trailing edge of the shoe is being used as the leading edge, (no chamfer).

  5. #5

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    Click image for larger version. 

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    Quote Originally Posted by Hawkstone View Post
    "it is just when you gently squeeze the brake and it wants to fully lock up."

    My guess is that the brake shoes are fitted wrongly for the direction of rotation of the hub.
    i.e. The trailing edge of the shoe is being used as the leading edge, (no chamfer).
    Still having the same problem I have attached the photos below of the brake shoes and how it is currently set up. Today I even extended the brake arm that connects to the frame and still no luck.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails FKr6htt2Ri2C7aXhprBZyw.jpg  

  6. #6
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    Those shoes look thick; what is the diameter of the brake shoes compared to the brake drum?

    And looks like the brake anchor is a flat strap, but there is an offset between the brake and springer mount...is it pulling sideways a bit? Are you using just regular bolts at anchor ends? If offset, heim joints at each end of the brake anchor would be a better option.
    Last edited by TriNortchopz; 06-18-2019 at 7:36 AM. Reason: heim

  7. #7

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    Quote Originally Posted by TriNortchopz View Post
    Those shoes look thick; what is the diameter of the brake shoes compared to the brake drum?

    And looks like the brake anchor is a flat strap, but there is an offset between the brake and springer mount...is it pulling sideways a bit? Are you using just regular bolts at anchor ends? If offset, heim joints at each end of the brake anchor would be a better option.

    Will check tomorrow just found out the cam shaft is shot. FML. Having one over nighted trying to get to Born Free.

    Could it be locking because the rod is bolted down the top portion of the rod connected to the springer moves freely but the one on connected to the brake is locked down and I thought that was bizarre.

  8. #8
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    Both ends of the brake anchor ("rod") need to be free floating, that is why I suggested heim joints.
    Click image for larger version. 

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    You also need to use shoulder bolts so they can be fully torqued and there is no part of the threads of the bolt inside the holes:
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    You can use that flat "rod" but it will need to be bent so both ends are flush with their mounts, and use shoulder bolts with shorter shoulders - just slightly more than the thickness of the "rod":
    Click image for larger version. 

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  9. #9

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    Im very familiar with theses wheels!
    And yes you can make them work half ass decent.

    First off make sure you shim between the bushing and your spacer with brass shims.
    You can take up a lot of slop and will be able to make sure your shoes are " square to the drum "
    I like to take a 3" brake hone to the inside of drum and remover the chrome. Chrome is not a good surface for brake shoes!
    If you are using the stupid flat bar that came with your wheel it will work but it is at too much of a angle.
    So every time you touch the brake it rotates too much and applies the brake a little.
    Your rockers should not " dive when you hit the brake at all!
    You need to make a anchor point higher from the drum.
    Not hard to do.
    I would post a picture if I knew how! lol
    And last but not least!
    Throw away that cheap cable they sent with the wheel.
    It stretches like a rubber band!
    Barnett will make you a nice one for $40
    Or a stainless braided one for $60.

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