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  1. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by geof View Post
    Samhain what do you mean by using it sparingly. So it can be caused by a to big of jet
    I believe he was referring to your enrichener.....

  2. #22
    SamHain
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    Quote Originally Posted by geof View Post
    Samhain what do you mean by using it sparingly. So it can be caused by a to big of jet
    Not to use it too much. If you need choke to start, go ahead. But get it turned off as soon as you can.

    I switch over to throttle pretty much as soon as it starts, less than 30 seconds on the stubborn starts days.

    the cv is a much better carb, but s&s are proven also, they will work just fine.

  3. #23
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    Thanks guys, just checked the compression..front cilinder 30psi sounds very low and rear cilinder 90psi what is normal psi for shovelhead 1340cc. But never noticed low power it rides good and have power when i give it gass? Pushrods or valve?

  4. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by geof View Post
    Thanks guys, just checked the compression..front cilinder 30psi sounds very low and rear cilinder 90psi what is normal psi for shovelhead 1340cc. But never noticed low power it rides good and have power when i give it gass? Pushrods or valve?
    Normal depends on your comp ratio, 90 is fine but they need to be within a couple pounds of each other. They’ll move along on one cylinder. Time for a leak down test.

  5. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by geof View Post
    Thanks guys, just checked the compression..front cilinder 30psi sounds very low and rear cilinder 90psi what is normal psi for shovelhead 1340cc. But never noticed low power it rides good and have power when i give it gass? Pushrods or valve?
    Yep just as I thought...... Low compression, it looks like it's time for a top end job........

    Damn I hate it when I'm right.......

  6. #26
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    Leak down test,how do i do this? And top end is it costly? So its not an easy fix like valves or pushrods,it is the low compression that makes it hard to start also? Thanks for helping a lot im all new to this and will try to do as much as i can without bringing it to a shop. Learning as we go

  7. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by geof View Post
    Leak down test,how do i do this? And top end is it costly? So its not an easy fix like valves or pushrods,it is the low compression that makes it hard to start also? Thanks for helping a lot im all new to this and will try to do as much as i can without bringing it to a shop.
    Yes low compression will have it hard to start and it will also make a plug look carbon fouled like yours did....

    A top end job doesn't have to be expensive unless you start buying things you don't need......... Like making way more horse power than you need etc...... Keep it simple and as stock as you can.....

    No you shouldn't need any push rods....

  8. #28

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    First, adjust the valves and do a compression check again. You must hold the throttle wide open when doing the compression test. If you are kicking the motor to test, the final numbers may be lower than if you were to use an electric starter. You need to kick it briskly of course, and look at the gauge reading on the first and second kick, and compare both cylinders. Continue until the reading tops out. The two cylinders should be within 10% of each other on all readings.
    If the front cylinder is still low after a valve adjustment, you are going to need to pull at least the front head, so a leak check, while informative, is not really necessary.
    I hope that you find that with a valve adjustment, your front and rear numbers will be similar.

    Jim

  9. #29
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    did you check valve adjustment? If a valve is held open due to to tight clearance would not allow compression to build. Adjust pushrods first.

  10. #30
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    Thanks for the reply’s,but damn so confusing one says you need a top rebuild meaning cilinderheads and valve i think? One other says check pushrods. Better check them first and i did kick it without the throttle open maybe thats why..but it could be like tattoo says need to rebuild. Dont forget im a newbie at this,sorry if am sometimes slow

  11. #31
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    Relax, clear you head... Check the cheaper , quick fix first (check pushrods) , then recheck compression.
    If these easier actions don't work, you may have to take the front top end apart. Hopefully not.. Good luck!

  12. #32
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    Thanks hoghead, will do it like that and hopefully it is good after that if not than i got some work ahead hehe

  13. #33
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    Start going through things before you start taking things apart..... Adjust the valves recheck the compression and let us know what you find out.....

    With that many miles it's not promising but you never know....


    Don't let it bother you..... What ever the problem is it's an easy fix.......

  14. #34
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    About 30 years ago(wow, 1988, how time flies!) when I was just starting out in a bike shop, on the Brit side of Vintage V-Twin in Edmonton, the owner had a Pan with low compression in one cylinder; the HD mechanic just used a fitting for the sparkplug hole to connect compressed air into the cylinder, when the piston was at top dead center on the compression stroke - air pressure from the compressor was set at 30PSI. No air leaking from intake or exhaust valves, none into the crankcase, but air was leaking from between the head and the cylinder, right at the back by the frame rail of his rigid chop, which pointed to a blown head gasket. This was then a known problem before disassembly. Head off, inspected for flatness and any other possible problems, a new head gasket and a happy ridin' shop owner. A simple version of a 'leak down test' that I never forgot.

  15. #35
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    Quote Originally Posted by geof View Post
    Thanks tattoo, first of thanks for the reply and the help you offer..its about 30.000km so i guess around 60.000miles perhaps..
    30.000km comes to about 20.000 miles, not 60.
    So that's not too bad.

    Have you tried finding any fairly local guys that could give you a helping hand with the tasks that the guys above have recommended?
    There seem to be a bunch of guys with shovels and pans in Belgium and Holland as well.

    I'm in Liege for work. A bit far from you maybe te be able to pop over and give you a hand.

    Andri

  16. #36
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    Yeah i have found 2 guys around here but they are garage and charge a lot of money and the bike is still running bad. They know their stuff they say not talking them bad but i guess its just fast money and of the bike starts and runs its good for them.. thats very friendly andri,its a bit far yes think an hour drive something like that im from ghent. I would drive over there but dont thrust my bike now hehe

  17. #37
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    Default Hello guys

    Update guys,

    Did check the valves and no wobble at all it feels secure so i gues there ok? Did a new compression test now with the throttle open and new readings front cilinder was about 100psi now and rear between 110 and 115 psi soo thank god better numbers and no top end needed hopefully. Then try to start it to primes kicks and ignition on on kick and it was singing but not for long,it died and then i tried to kick it about ten times no life in it,something weird i found was wen i closed the fuel it started fast again,with fuel on nothing on reserve nothing so maybe carb issue? Will try so set up my ignition to..

  18. #38
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    Default Leak



    I found a leak at my kicker tranny,sometimes a lot of oil was under my bike tranny oil. Is it an easy fix?
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 41A83745-B94E-42AD-845C-E22337CB975E.jpg   41A83745-B94E-42AD-845C-E22337CB975E.jpg   3D929468-CB93-4D95-A52D-4FBF0932CB92.jpg  

  19. #39
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    Sorry for all my questions hahaha hey but i am trying

  20. #40
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    Quote Originally Posted by geof View Post
    Update guys, Did a new compression test now with the throttle open and new readings front cilinder was about 100psi now and rear between 110 and 115 psi soo thank god better numbers and no top end needed hopefully.
    Those are great numbers.....

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