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  1. #21

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    Feb 2015
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    my bad, i didn't realise AMS didn't cater for shoves

  2. #22
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    Im running evo lifter blocks, taper lite pushrods, and jims shovel roller rockers that come in their evo style kit.
    If i remember correctly, I had to use the twin cam upper pushrod tube clips because they are shorter and make up the difference from the taller evo blocks. its been happy and quiet since 2008 or so...
    and i plugged the shovel oil line ports.
    Last edited by LDNCLR; 06-11-2019 at 6:52 PM. Reason: spelling...

  3. #23

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    Quote Originally Posted by LDNCLR View Post
    Im running evo lifter blocks, taper lite pushrods, and jims shovel roller rockers that come in their evo style kit.
    If i remember correctly, I had to use the twin cam upper pushrod tube clips because they are shorter and make up the difference from the taller evo blocks. its been happy and quiet since 2008 or so...
    and i plugged the shovel oil line ports.
    Do you have any problem with the pushrod tubes leaking because of the slightly different angles involved?

    Jim

  4. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by JBinNC View Post
    Do you have any problem with the pushrod tubes leaking because of the slightly different angles involved?

    Jim
    No sir... If i remember correctly its using evo bottom tubes with the O rings.

  5. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by LDNCLR View Post
    Im running evo lifter blocks, taper lite pushrods, and jims shovel roller rockers that come in their evo style kit.
    If i remember correctly, I had to use the twin cam upper pushrod tube clips because they are shorter and make up the difference from the taller evo blocks. its been happy and quiet since 2008 or so...
    and i plugged the shovel oil line ports.
    Thanks..

    I was looking at it last night. The EVO setup looks way better. More oil and cooler oil to the top

    My lifters, blocks, cam, pushrods are all worn pretty bad. Amazed it ran as well as it did, honestly.

    Is this strictly a bolt in? Evo cam, rockers, push rods, lifters and blocks? I am told even stock EVO rockers work?

    It's that easy? No other oil mods?
    Last edited by confab; 06-16-2019 at 11:09 AM.

  6. #26

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    Quote Originally Posted by confab View Post
    Thanks..

    I was looking at it last night. The EVO setup looks way better. More oil and cooler oil to the top

    My lifters, blocks, cam, pushrods are all worn pretty bad. Amazed it ran as well as it did, honestly.

    Is this strictly a bolt in? Evo cam, rockers, push rods, lifters and blocks? I am told even stock EVO rockers work?

    It's that easy? No other oil mods?
    To make this swap using HD evo parts, the cam, tappet blocks, and tappets from an evo will bolt in to a shovel case. You must use the mid-'77- up shovel pinion gear and breather gear with the evo cam. And of course, you would want to change the cam bearing as a maintenance item. You must use the evo pushrod covers, at least the lower tube, to match the tappet blocks. LDNCLR noted above that the twin cam pushrod cover clip can be used. You will have to use an adjustable pushrod set with a lot of adjustment range, and S&S offers such a set. You can use your existing shovel rocker arms, and if you do you must keep the shovel top end oil lines. The shovel rocker arms have a 1.43:1 ratio, as opposed to the 1.62:1 evo ratio, so valve lift is proportionately less than the evo cam listed lift.
    You can also convert the shovel rocker boxes to evo rocker arms, but this swap is NOT a bolt-in. You can either machine the rocker arms shorter, or use a custom made spacer to deal with the length difference. Using the evo rocker arms, you can delete the shovel top end oil lines.
    You will have to set your valve travel and spring pack for any evo cam you use, as the mildest evo cam has more lift than a stock shovel head will handle. Evo rocker geometry in a shovel is not all that great, but is acceptable with mild cams.

    I am going to try this swap myself, but do it the easy way and keep the shovel rocker arms.

    Jim

  7. #27
    SamHain
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    These guys make a fine pushrod also. Running some in an evo, possible downside they were not quick install style, but I had the heads off.

    https://www.pushrods.net/harley-push...SAAEgKsPPD_BwE

    Our latest offering of high performance tapered adjustable pushrods will impress even the most discriminating Harley engine builder. We have released the strongest available pushrod in the industry and are excited to be offering it to our customers. Call for more information!

  8. #28

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    To do the evo tappet block swap on a shovel, you must have an adjustable pushrod with A LOT of adjustment. S&S offers a set with 9 1/2 to 11 1/2 length adjustment, or something close to that, and I think that would fit the bill, which is why I mentioned them.

    Jim

  9. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sugarcubes View Post
    for what its worth, I replaced my stock harley hydraulic lifters with Hylift-Johnson lifters when I went to a better cam. Left em to soak in fresh motor oil for a couple days and installed em with adjustable rods. They took a lot longer to bleed down than the instructions reckoned but they have been great with no problems so far.
    very good lifters for twinkies, but unaware of them for pans and shovels

  10. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by JBinNC View Post
    Now, if you want trouble free tappets, or you want a big cam (and can't afford VelvaTouch) you have the solid tappets and solid tappet conversions.

    The factory shovelhead tappet consists of a tappet body with a drop-in hydraulic unit. So, you can pull the hydraulic unit out and replace with any number of tappet adapters.
    The one you will see most often in old motors is the Sifton type with the 1/2" dia. aluminum pushrods, and the large radius pushrod tip. These work, but the large diameter pushrods rub the pushrod tubes, causing them to wiggle and leak. (You can often see the tubes moving when the motor is running.) I personally will not use these because of the potential leak problem. There are some kits with 7/16" dia. pushrods that work better.

    Next is the '48 - '52 pan style tappets and tappet adapters which essentially work the same. The adjusting screw is in the tappet, and the pushrods are plain, like an ironhead. These work very well with big cams and high rpm, so you see this style in race motors. The main thing is that the plain pushrods can be very strong (depending on mfg.) so you get a nice stiff pushrod for use with big valve spring loads. S&S sells this style tappet adapter kit, with chromemoly pushrods. They used to sell the pan style tappets but I don't know if they still offer them. Eastern and Jim's do offer the pan style solid tappet assembly, with the Eastern adjusting screw being a little weak.

    S&S and Colony also sell a solid tappet adapter that uses the existing stock pushrods, and that is the lowest buck way to convert to solids, but I wouldn't use these with big cams.

    S&S also sells a solid tappet adapter and pushrod set that uses an evo style adjustable pushrod, and these are good for hot street motors with moderate cams. Crane used to offer something similar, but the pushrods were so long, you had to pull the cam to install the kit, and FUCK THAT!

    Jim
    valuable info, thanks for sharing

  11. #31
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    I would by s s lifters there around 400 and not worry about it if you dont want the Velva lifters
    Ihad to rebuild my 69 shovel after a Jims lifter failed.
    I dont know if flathead power is making lifters or still making them for s s But they are a damn nice lifter my knuckle has them

  12. #32
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    My 1979 Electra Glide FLH 1200 King of the Highway is running Jim's Powerglide Tappets,
    Taper Lite push rods, S&S Super Stock heads & Super E carburator, Head Quarters Torquer
    cam @ 0.465" lift, true dual exhaust. NO crossover.

    All engine and transmission (all bearings upgraded) work done summer 2002. Balanced.

    Primary chain with Hayden M6 and final o-ring chain.

    Sprockets are 24/51. Yesterday I was screaming down the freeway at 80-mph+ all afternoon.

    This bike does NOT leak one drop of anything!

    I know the cam is fairly mild but this scoot is VERY reliable!......👍

    Original 4-speed with 3.00 first gear hooks bard and goes straight.

  13. #33
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    I have the Jims Powerglide tappets in my 93" pan motor, no problems & I
    have about 30k miles on them. I originally had the blue anodized aluminum
    Jims Push rods in the motor but one of them fractured and came apart after
    only 3,000 or so miles. I had to pull the motor to get all of the bits of
    aluminum out, I then switched to Comp Cams chromoly adjustable push rods,
    which are heavier, but more reliable. Jims informed me that they had a problem
    with the anodize treatment making them overly brittle.

  14. #34

    Join Date
    May 2015
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    I'm always out of town. But since I'm here and surfing I'll bump this thread. For what it's worth I thought the JIM'S clean up kit (OILS THRU PUSH RODS)would be a great upgrade when rebuilding my shovel. At the time the kit cost me about 1100 bucks. It made it between 25 and 30 thousand miles then a lifter hung up which destroyed the cam one lifter wheel and bent a push rod. I went back to OEM TYPE valve train. In the end the whole deal cost me a lot more than the cost of the clean up kit. I've really developed an attitude about companies that were once Known for Quality and innovation, Now it's all hype and the almighty dollar. I try to keep as much oem stuff in my shovel as possible. One thing that I have had a hard time finding is quality valve train parts. For the record I was running an Andrews AB grind at the time of the JIM'S failure. So far I have no complaints with Andrews products although I went to a J grind.

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