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  1. #1

    Default 96 sportster grinding noise

    Primary gasket was leaking on my 96 xlh1200 sporty, so I pulled the cover, installed a new chain adjuster, new gasket, new o rings when installing over. Decided that since there was snow on the ground still, i’d try a jockey shift w/foot clutch set up. Got it all put on, got the cable tension tight, got the primary chain at its 3/8” play or whatever the manual says. Can’t remember right now. Got the 32 oz of oil like the manual says.

    Here’s the problem, shifts 1-5 just fine, 5-1 there’s a very abrupt, loud, nasty grinding sound in every gear coming down, to the point where it will stall out the bike.

    Rode all last summer with 0 transmission issues other than a leak here or there, rode it into my shop and up onto the stand a few days before it snowed. Any insight would be greatly appreciated.

    P.s. not talking about the N-1 clunk, been doing that forever.

  2. #2

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    From your description, the clutch is dragging.

    Jim

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    ^^^^ Yep that's my guess too....^^^^^^

    Clutch isn't adjusted properly....

  4. #4

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    I pulled the cable tight and clamped it. There’s a little play on that end. No more than what it had before on my handle bar, and I adjusted it internally exactly how the manual says, screw counter clockwise until you feel resistance, turn back clockwise 1/4 turn. Am I completely missing something?

  5. #5

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    Foot pedal doesn't have enough travel?

    Jim

  6. #6

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    The piece that the end of the cable attaches to inside the primary, the little oval hook thingy, hits the inside of the case and that’s as far as she goes. From what I can tell, it Shouldn’t do that, but I can’t see any other way to assemble the clutch dealio internally, where the adjuster nut is. I’m terrible with the names of things and it probably isn’t helping��*♂️

    Wouldn’t it grind shifting up as well as down if it was a clutch adjustment issue?
    Last edited by ButteryC; 05-12-2019 at 9:22 PM.

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    it also depends on how you got to a ''Jockey'' shift .
    if all you did was to extend the gear lever without the use of Hemi joints and a second pivot you will end up with about a 2ft gear shift and a shit load of weight bouncing back n fourth on the small shaft and bush,
    if I were doing it, this is how I would do it for nice short shifts that are precise and that wont damage the transmission.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails kicker pedal.jpg  

  8. #8

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    If the little oval hook thingie is hitting the case, you may have adjusted the center screw wrong (too loose). But, the center screw must have some free travel or the release mechanism will hold the pressure plate off the clutch pack, and make it slip.

    The reason it doesn't grind on upshifts is that the transmission is slowing down during the shift, more closely matching speeds for the next gear. On downshifts, the transmission needs to speed up to match gear speeds and is again slowing down, unless you blip the throttle as you disengage the clutch. That's a skill you would be well paid to learn, when dealing with clunky old HD transmissions.

    Jim

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    ...the little oval hook thingy,...clutch dealio...I’m terrible with the names of things...
    A parts book would help - or this:

    Click image for larger version. 

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    http://partsfinder.onlinemicrofiche....TER%20ASSEMBLY

  10. #10

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    I used a pivot point off of the top of my jugs where the motor mount is, and used heim joints so there shouldn’t be any weight on the shifter shaft at all.

  11. #11

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    The “oval thingy” I’m referring to is called the clutch cable coupler on that websites parts break down.

  12. #12
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    I would agree with the clutch not being properly adjusted. If in fact it had no problems before and as you said you only did X,Y and Z than something went wrong with X,Y or Z or any combination of the stated along the way. It is hard to help you without actually seeing what you did. Time to pull it back apart and find what went wrong. Maybe the thingy isn't properly seated in the doodad???

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