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  1. #21
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    With this the twentieth episode the heads are revisited from the very beginning of the project where they were quickly re-assembled after inspection. They deserve the same attention as the rest of the bike and as the heads were thoroughly checked, the rocker boxes deserve a rebuild.

    A quick tear-down separates the heads from the rocker boxes and though while a visual appearance shows everything ok, it will need to be completely taken apart to be sure. The cracked glass on the ends of the nuts is an indicator that I should probably go chrome this time.

    As the pieces are disassembled they are put in there own areas as to not mix parts. Re-assembled outside the unit you can hear some deflection in the bushing on the first one. So onto the second one, not as bad but still mild wear. I decide to break down the other head and see if it has the same wear indication and see what needs to be purchased.

    The other rocker box had mild wear on both. It was that first one tapping on the box that had the most damage. A measurement of the shafts with the micrometers showed them within tolerance. Broken shaft and bushings would have meant a whole new set. Next all of the pads will be checked, if they are damaged the rocker cant be salvaged. All of the pads are shown to be good as well.

    After seeing that only the bushings were the issue , someone on the forum was kind enough to send me the special tools, so all i needed was to procure the new bushings to refresh this unit. A 9/16 tap and a drift is used to extract the old bushings from the rockers. It did look as if some of the bushings in my bike were previously replaced at some point.


    With the bushings arrived, Jims kit 17428-57K, I start with the oil port side, chamfered side in first matching the oil port hole in the bushing to the inside oil port hole. The tool brings the bushing flush into position. An inspection confirms that the oil hole lines up. On one of them the oil hole was slightly off, so id chased the hole with a small drill bit to ensure adequate oil flow. At this point everything will need to be set up for reaming, that will be in the next video.


    Last edited by jcrubin; 4 Weeks Ago at 7:36 PM.

  2. #22
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    I have started migrating the videos over to a new channel. The links on this thread have been updated. At the time of this post, 10 of the 20 posted videos have been moved over.

    As of 14 Jan 75% of the videos are moved...

    26 Jan 100% of Videos have been moved...

    The channel for this project is below.

    https://www.youtube.com/channel/UClK...lDG_CwqSCYZC5Q
    Last edited by jcrubin; 4 Weeks Ago at 7:37 PM.

  3. #23
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    Continuing with Part 21 the bushings have all been pressed in the the rocker arms and the must now be reamed to size. Ive leaded the rocker arms into a vice with soft jaws. The reamer in a T-bar with light oil is turned into the bushing cutting into the first and then the second one.


    This reamer being a bit worn I found going in both directions was helpful , also finishing off with polish and a drill for final fitment. The test is with the fitment, which shows to fit nice without binding nor deflection.


    With all of them done, I move onto the washing and polishing of the rocker boxes with jewelers rouge. once polishing is completed, assembly begins, the face of the spacers are cleaned op on sand paper and oil, then all pieces assembled in the rocker box. Old nuts, bolts and washers will ne used for the test assembly.


    Once torqued, binding is checked and endplay is checked. .08 / .13 and .14 / .10 initially I tried to disassemble the boxes and install appropriate shims. I did NOT like how the shims fit and decided since everything was in specification I would forego the shims and keep the end-play. Everything was re-assembled with new hardware.


    Now with the rocker boxes assembled, the mating surfaces are cleaned as well as on the heads, and the gaskets inspected. the head is then lowered onto the rocker box, flipping everything over the washers and nuts are installed. The slack drawn out begins the torquing sequence. In a star patters 145in/lbs to 175 in/lbs brings everything together.


    The heads are ready to be installed onto the motor.


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